Handbrake mal function on my 76 4tl

[Chris ayres]

I am new here.
I bought Alans wee blue car about year ago .
All good except that my handbrake lever won't pull all the way up.
The lever pulls up and locks but only to about 3/4.
Handbrake therefore not really braking in any true sense of the word.
Also if you even slightly touch the handle it gets knocked off the ratchet and completely disengages , quelle horror!!
Anyone ever had this sort of thing before ?, if so I would be very grateful of your experience.
Otherwise I will start from scratch ,
thanks in advance
regards
chris

 

[chudson]

The cable might be seized

 

[André4Renaults]

The rachet could also be damaged in some way but I suspect the cables. Is the footbrake operating normally? If so you can probably isolate the probelms to the footbrake system specifiacally, as opposed to having to strip down brake hubs & shoes. Cables can sometimes eased off with judicial use of WD40.

You're north London based; I'm in Barnet & was a V.W. trained mechanic for years. PM me if you're nearby & want a hand sorting it out.

 

[Chris ayres]

thanks to chudson and Andrew.
foot brakes seem to working ok to me ( well ,like they do in 1976 techno world considering they are non servo drums) , I don't think the cable is seized because the brakes do come on a fair bit via the handbrake lever , but not completely, because the handbrake lever will only lock at 3/4 not any more than that. to reiterate (i)it will only pull up about 3/4 of the way and (ii)it has this habit of completely disengaging if you brush the lever, it springs off the latch and goes back down to the bottom. Andrew , I agree, I think the ratchet is the problem , I would be grateful of your learn-ed opinion and could take a run over to Barnet sat or sun but not sure how to PM

 

[mojobaby]

Hi Chris, when you pull up your handbrake, it should "click" about 7 times. You can adjust it in the engine compartment as per the attached photo. If you use the last hole, you should be able to pull the handbrake up further.
Perhaps the tooth that the ratchet hooks on is worn but if it still is too sensitive on another tooth, then the ratchet itself must be worn, or bent

 

[malcolm]

Brakes are manually adjusted on the earlier R4s. There are square adjusters on the rear of the brake back plates. Not keeping them in adjustment would cause the trouble.

 

[Chris ayres]

thanks each
ok , went out and checked ,pulled it to the top got 11 clicks. Yes mojobaby good call it looks like I have 2 holes on the left to move to.


I will try that first thing in the morning when its light , weather forecast is sunny, I will check the teeth and post update asap
'night

 

[André4Renaults]

Any news on the brakes?

 

[Chris ayres]

yes thanks . Firstly managed to find my old Haynes manual(not sure if I am allowed to mention that publication here?) from 20 odd years ago. pp139/140 and the thread here clarified things. I moved the link rod two holes along the handle and so have a much more secure and functional handbrake. I avoided any further dismemberment until I can locate at least some of the bits, but suspect, as you say andrew,that either the ratchet ,spring or handle may be worn. Europarts in hornsey rd whilst helpful didn't seem to be able to supply any of these bits so may try the renault parts place in sidcup(?). I am also listing some axle stands to santa so will then be able to take on board clementine's comments re correct adjustment. All in all a happy wee blue car on saturday afternoon, as we motored on down into Euston to collect my son returning from Uni, thanks again

 

[Chris ayres]

PS also on saturday spotted a perished breather? pipe connecting the carb (SU;-mod by previous owner Alan) to the rocker cover. Have applied insulting tape to the wound, Europarts looked a bit vacant when I asked them for a replacement, hopefully get one from Renault direct?

 

[André4Renaults]

Remove the old pipe & take it to a decent motor factors who'll probably have it in stock or will sell you a length of similar pipe that'll do the job. New Jubilee clips either end & off you go!

 

[David M]

Obviously you have front drums as well as the rears.
I'm surprised that they were still employed as late as 1976.
But back to your situation.
I'm with Malcolm on this one. I would adjust all of the drums, not just the front. I would do it soon.

Then, when you have a bit of time, I would go further.
You will hate me for this!
Much and all as I hate drum brakes, I would methodically remove an inspect each wheel's brakes.
You can't tell the lining thickness any other way. Nor can you know of cylinders weeping, internally.
On a car nearly 40 years old, I would be looking for that "peace of mind".

At your car's age, it's also possible that your drums have worn beyond their safe diameter.(which is potentially linked to your original issue) It's probably time to refresh the brake fluid as well. That's easy because you will loose a bit if you need to replace any bits.

As I said, I hate drum brakes.

They are the Devils work.

But,
With other forum members surprised at the small number of R4's left, you could make a good argument for keeping brakes and tyres in top condition. I've just done the rear "Lockheed" brakes on my R5. The time, frustration and perseverance are still fresh in my mind. Working on brakes, however, is a fairly cheap exercise that you can do at home.


Good luck with your efforts!


David

 

[pepper]

My 1984 4l still had drum brakes, it even had the bigger engine and carb.