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Metal windows frames

Azazello

habitué
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1,109
Location
Italy
I am going to replace the windows frames... they're all nice and black painted, I have a roll of u-shaped gasket, and a few 2,9x13mm stainless steel screws.
I thought I had to screw channel-gasket and frame together to the door, but while I was removing frames from other doors I recognized that originally the frame were screwed to the door and just after the channel was fitted. Originale channels have holes correspomdig to screw position and water drainings.
Someone who already did the job can advice me the best way to operate?
It doesn't seem an easy job...
 
It's not a hard job, but rather a fiddly one especially for the rear windows. It's as you thought: first the frames are screwed on the door, then the channels are pressed at the space between the frame and the door lip. The front sliding windows can be fitted afterwards, but the back ones must be fitted before the channel, then moved so that the channel can be pushed in place.
There are two types of channel that can be fitted, one is the steel-armoured one, just like the originals, which is stiff, holds itself well in place but is prone to rust and harder to fit at the rear doors. There is also a soft type of channel that is generally easier to fit but may require some kind of adhesive to hold it in place (has a tendency to move after some time of using the sliding windows).
The outside frame-to-door joint was originally sealed with a rubber-style sealant after the assembly had been fitted. Black seam sealer or a similar PU sealant works very well and looks nice. Do not apply it to the water drain pressings at the bottom of the channel.
Where did you find the U-shaped seal?
 
Hi Angel, nice to read you!
Bought my seals in france from Melun, via a guy that buys and sells them in Italy (cheaper delivery fee than buying directly from them). Think they have a metallic soul inside.
Today I fitted one front frame and it was not so difficult, but as you said I suppose the rear ones are worse...


The junction between the two ends of the U-seal should ideally be at te bottom or at the top of the window?
 
Ah, OK, I thought you had found the hard to come by rubber seals between the fixed glass and the frame.

I think it does not make any difference, but I put the junction at the bottom.
 
Ah, OK, I thought you had found the hard to come by rubber seals between the fixed glass and the frame.

I think it does not make any difference, but I put the junction at the bottom.

I was just wondering where it shoukd be more comfortable...
I kept my rubber seals because they do not show too much wear and original is often qualitatively better than new parts, but I remember comotoir de la carroserie had them,..
http://www.comptoir-carrosserie.fr/...adrement-metallique-xml-236_265_266-4362.html
 
Before I reach for the WD40, can anyone recommend a more suitable lubricant to help front and rear windows glide,
on a 1985 Renault 4 that gets only occasional use?
Thanks,
Neil
 
Not to dismiss harbourseals advice ,but For leather/rubber and plastics I swear by Glycerine,it's colorless,non-toxic,won't show on paint and doesn't
collect dust and grime,and to top it off,it impregnates the seals/surrounds to make them shed water.You can use it on the window rubber-sorrounds,
hoses and plastics too.
rub-on rub-off Miyaky style, It will soften your rubbers and revitalize it--after a while it will sweat a bit, but that's only to show it's done it's job proper-just wipe off exess with dry rag...
Don' tell anyone-as it's SECRET and classified trick! (if you do I might have to kill you.....
Don't ask for it at your car-parts shop they'll think you crazy and all Ga-Ga
-You'll get it a local pharmacy or bakers-shop (at a fraction of car-parts pushers shop prize) 007 -Reid.
 
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Thank you harbourseal, I'll try silicon grease on the passenger side,
N

Thanks reid, I'll experiment with glycerine on the driver's side.
(Your secret is safe with me),
N.
 
Ps don't use nitro glycerine thinking it' might be better than ordinary type
 
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