Clementine's Garage
Clementine the Cat
 
Image of flower
Yellow R4
 
Réparateur d'automobiles

Not igniting without help

Teodor

Enthusiast
Messages
64
Location
Istria
Greetings friends.

I have recently managed to make my 4 run again and register it.
Passed MoT with no issues.

Now, after some tinkering with idling and the mixture screw, it runs really smoothly and idles well, but it won’t start at all, no matter how long I try. I squirt some zippo lighter fluid directly in the carb, and then it starts, but without that, it absolutely does not.

Would that be the case if I tightened the mixture screw too tightly, or could the freezing cold be the issue.

It does run weirdly for the first couple of seconds before running smoothly, but that might just be the lighter fluid.

Any input is appreciated.
 
Check if you have spark. I have the same, and after set gap points/dwell angle, runs ok again
 
Perhaps my post isn’t clear enough.
The car runs fine, and smooth, it’s just the first time starting it after it had been still for a day, that it does not start without some fuel sprayed directly in the carburetor. It has power, goes over 100kmh on a flat road, idles well, does not stall or have any other problems except starting after a day of being still.
 
Perhaps my post isn’t clear enough.
The car runs fine, and smooth, it’s just the first time starting it after it had been still for a day, that it does not start without some fuel sprayed directly in the carburetor. It has power, goes over 100kmh on a flat road, idles well, does not stall or have any other problems except starting after a day of being still.
Hi, i have often the same problematis, must spray carb cleaner in it some time and then it starts to run, i have a aftermarketfuel pump and i renewed fuel lines.I guess lines are emtied after a day or two.Planned to install a electric fuel pump.Sparks exists and i have an electric ignition system installed.
 
Hi, i have often the same problematis, must spray carb cleaner in it some time and then it starts to run, i have a aftermarketfuel pump and i renewed fuel lines.I guess lines are emtied after a day or two.Planned to install a electric fuel pump.Sparks exists and i have an electric ignition system installed.
Yeah, it’s weird because it did turn on with no issues, as we say on the first tooth. After tinkering with the mixture screw, it wouldn’t.
But it now runs smoothly while driving, It doesn’t even need the choke to be pulled a bit like it used to.
Weird.

I don’t know about electric fuel pumps, but I would however think about it, after installing the electric ignition. I’ve heard it kind of gets rid of many issues. That coupled with a better carb and electric fuel pump makes me think it would be even better.
 
Okay, so, after loosening the mixture screw, 5 (I don’t think this is a correct measurement unit, since it only applies to me, because I used my fingers as a reference and not actual screw turns) turns, it turned on with not a lot of effort, 3 turns made it want to(if you know what I mean, that tznggh moment) but 5 made it turn on.
But I worry it won’t run as well as it did with the screw tighter.

I’ll update you all with some pictures and a video soon. Taking care of an R4 and making it run is an ever going process as we all know, but I reached a point in its progress and can say I’m nearly done, for now. Just another checkpoint in a never ending run.

Ps: I think my fuel consumption is really high, for what it should be. Probably 8l/100km..maybe even 9, of mixed open road and city driving. I am a bit heavy on the accelerator and like to push it in every gear, but that shouldn’t make such a huge difference in consumption, I think..
 
basic as may be-Try pressing the acc-pedal down all the way Once - move foot off-then pull the Choke out all the way without touching acc-pedal...
 
When was the last time the valve clearances were set?
Probably in the factory when it was made :’D
I did buy an engine that supposedly had 100k km, and another mechanic serviced it, but I’m not sure he set the valve clearance.
Would I be able to do it myself? I know I need those thin metal thingies to do so.
 
basic as may be-Try pressing the acc-pedal down all the way Once - move foot off-then pull the Choke out all the way without touching acc-pedal...
Yup, did that. I basically did everything I could and knew how to do.
Loosening the mixture screw helped, but I have yet to go on a ride and see if the performance is better or worse this way.

I’ve seen on a Croatian forum, some people put carburetors from a Zastava (if you’re at all familiar with them) not sure which model, and I’m kinda inclined to do so, but I’m not sure which one would fit. Since buying an original carb is really expensive, for a used one 150€, for a new one 300€, and franzose sells reproductions from 150 plus shipping so around 200€ for the cheapest one.
I’m looking for viable alternatives. I’ve heard some models of R5 have the same carbs.
 
Is the petrol old? Mine isn't starting well after 4 years off the road and I think the problem is stale petrol.
 
If you have the Zenith 28IF carburettor, you have to use the choke to start the engine when it had cooled down, no matter if outside temperature is 40 degrees!
 
Is the petrol old? Mine isn't starting well after 4 years off the road and I think the problem is stale petrol.
Fresh Petrol. Could the humidity be the issue? It’s been really humid and foggy. It just doesn’t want to ignite, takes a long time of trying even if it’s been still for not even half a day. Few hours is fine, 10 hours and it may well be 3 days. I feel like maybe the fuel pump is defective, but then it wouldn’t run well either, would it?
Perhaps I ought clean the carburetor again.
 
If you have the Zenith 28IF carburettor, you have to use the choke to start the engine when it had cooled down, no matter if outside temperature is 40 degrees!
Yeah.
Would you say cold air intake is better or placing the intake tube on the exhaust is a better option? It makes no difference while turning it on for sure, but while on running temperature and driving? My mechanic told me to always have it connected so warm air goes into it. But afaik cold air aids in better combustion, I wonder if that applies to it too. Since so many things do not apply to our beloved 4, that does to other vehicles.
 
If turning the mixture screw out too far made the car easier to start that might suggest something is blocking the fuel when the choke is closed. It would be worth removing the top of the carburettor and cleaning out any residue in the bottom of the float chamber and cleaning out the jets. Blow compressed air through all the holes to make sure there isn't any gunk in them.
 
Yeah.
Would you say cold air intake is better or placing the intake tube on the exhaust is a better option? It makes no difference while turning it on for sure, but while on running temperature and driving? My mechanic told me to always have it connected so warm air goes into it. But afaik cold air aids in better combustion, I wonder if that applies to it too. Since so many things do not apply to our beloved 4, that does to other vehicles.
I wonder why the float basin is totally empty after winter inside warm garage?

20230417_191438.jpg
 
Back
Top