Project Hot-carb.. 32IF.

[SteveC]

Happy New Year all.

I picked up a nice looking Carb by chance recently and was wondering what can be done with it. I have a delightfull F6 with a 28IF.

I only have the carb, no manifold, but making an adaptor plate dosent worry me, I can do that. Im just struggling to identify exactly how I will hook up what I have to all the required pipes and cables.

Does anyone have any pictures of a 32IF installation that they can show me please?

One last thing.. 32IF2 vs 32IF7.. big differences? I have the 2.. (Wrong one I expect!)

Anyway, this is what I have:

I do have one worry and question.. What this wotsit is this all about?

Any help or pointers anyone can give would be much appriciated..

As a side story, spent today trying to get the rear springs out to lower it a little to match the front that was dropped a couple of inches over a year ago.. total failure.. Even with all the load off the bars and the outer suspension mountings loosened so they could float and take any excess loading/friction out of the splines, even with a long drift and a big heavy hammer, they arn't coming out.. Beaten.

 

[mr-reno-139]

only a quick reply
carb you have got there is off mk2 R5 (transverse engine) maybe jetted for 956 1108 1237 or 1397 cc think metal tag will id it further
if you made an adaptor to fit your manifold it would be restricted by the 28mm dia hole

cant use mk2 5 manifold as ports diff on head and even if did exit route is wrong angle

if you try to use your carb on mk1 5 manifold . spacings correct but carb will sit at 45 degrees to block

somebody else can advise you on torsion bars :smile:

 

[angel]

Did you remove the shock absorbers?! I see them in place on the photo, they definitely should be off as they stop rear arms from extending fully.

Try lots of WD-40 on both inner and outer splines and let them to soak for at least two hours, repeating the spraying in between. Try knocking the bars inwards first (from the outer mountings), then as you notice they have moved, knock them outwards.

If this one fails too, your only solution would be to remove the whole rear axle assembly and separate the parts on the floor...

 

[SteveC]

Did you remove the shock absorbers?! I see them in place on the photo, they definitely should be off as they stop rear arms from extending fully.

Try lots of WD-40 on both inner and outer splines and let them to soak for at least two hours, repeating the spraying in between. Try knocking the bars inwards first (from the outer mountings), then as you notice they have moved, knock them outwards.

If this one fails too, your only solution would be to remove the whole rear axle assembly and separate the parts on the floor...

Thanks for the pointers on this Angel. Leaving my shockers on there is not a problem. They are not OEM parts, they are 'specials' which were made for me to my spec by a company called AVO in Northampton (http://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=2649). They are not gas pressurised and do allow the springs to reach their 'null' position when fitted. They work a treat and special consideration was given to their fitment when we designed them so they work horizontally. We had been routinely been spraying the ends of the springs at both sides of the splines with wd40 for a few days beforehand and still no joy. Very disapointing..

Regarding the carb.. has anyone ever put a 28if manifold on a mill and opened the inlet out to 32mm? is there enough material there to get away with it?

 

[angel]

Do you mean that, with the shocks on and the rear axle off the ground, it is still possible to move the suspension arms downwards by hand? It has nothing to do with gas pressurised shocks or not, standard ones will always stop the arm from extending downwards.

Maybe, if you have or can make the special tool (dummy shock absorber) it would help. Install it on place of the shock and tighten it just two turns past finger-tight, sometimes the rubber bushes place a light load on the torsion bar that is enough to hold it in place.

It will be obvious if there is enough material on the manifold to be opened when you remove the carb, but bear in mind that the stud spacing is different too and there must also be material for this.