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R4 GTL Radiator

Andy Sherlock

Andy Sherlock

Enthusiast
Messages
103
Hi all,
Our car has always had a bit of a dribble from the radiator, for some 10 years I haven't located it, until now.
The thermal switch for the electric fan (located at the base of the radiator) packed up so I got down to changing it. When I unscrewed it from the Radiator it was loose, I didn't think anything of it as I was fitting a new one, which I would tighten up.
The new switch complete with seal washer was replaced and screwed in, but it would not tighten up.
It turns out the plastic housing on the radiator is split local to the plastic threaded housing, and this has been exaggerated by my messing with the things. As such, the radiator is now leaking badly from this area.
My reason for posting this on the forum is that I am hoping that some of you may be able to help with some useful hints and tips regarding removal and replacement and/or refurbishing what I have here. I haven’t had any radiator problems with the car before so this will be a new job for me. So if anyone can offer any help to make the job go smoothly for me, then it would be much appreciated.
One question I have is, would it be helpful to remove the bonnet, and if so how do I do this without damaging anything?
Finally, no it wasn’t me that over-tightened the switch in the first place, this is the first time I have messed with this part of the car.
Thanks all for your help in anticipation.
 
If you unscrew the two nuts of the hinges the bonnet will come up with the hinges still attached.
 
Best replacing the radiator - those plastic edges also crack where the matrix is clamped on. £70ish from Kempston Radiators.

Don't bother removing the bonnet. You need to remove the metal skid plate under the gearbox and you'll see the two nuts that hold on the radiator. They will be rusty so plenty of easing fluid. From there undo the hoses and the two bars that support the radiator at the top and it'll lift out.
 
Thanks for the tips guys, the old radiator is now off with no problems, not even a siezed bolt.
I shall be ordering a new radiator from Kempstone in the week, hopefully, I will get this on in the next couple of weeks.
While the parts are off I will take the opportunuty to tart up the rustproofing in that area.
The coolant that dropped out was clean, so I won't bother with a major flush out.
Before I buy, do you know if there is an all metal alternative radiator for this car?
Do you have any tips on how not to crack the radiator while securing the thermal fan switch sufficiently for the thing to seal?
Thanks again.
 
The Kempston one I have for the TX has plastic sides. Would be nice to get one with metal sides as they last for 40 years instead of 20 years. When I mentioned this to a friend he said I'd be dead in 40 years so what does it matter.

I've never known trouble with fan switches breaking the plastic. Use a bit of gasket sealant if you are worried about overtightening.
 
I changed my thermal fan switch this spring. I tighten it quite hard with my hand. Din't brake anything and it's not leaking.
 
I changed my rad a few days ago. No need to take the bonnet out, just an ugly work under the car unscrewing the 2 nuts, using 2 wrenches one inside another to reach the nut, and a third normal spanner as a lever.
The fan switch comes with an alu seal, but loosed water so I tightened the switch as much as i could but unsuccessfully. So I unscrewed the switch and put the old copper seal, tightening strongly with a 30mm spanner.
All this work without any problem with the plastic...
 
When I got a replacement GTL radiator from Renault (old one was leaking between plastic ends and metal) it was an all-metal construction.
 
Thanks again guys,
I have checked with Lifestyle Renault and their current replacement radiator is a plastic/aluminium construction at £119.00 + VAT.
The Kempston replacement is £78.00 including VAT, and is also a plastic/aluminium construction.
I am amazed that I can buy a radiator from Kempston for my 26 year old R4 simply by 'adding to basket' and 'checking out'. I really do hope it turns out to be that easy.
I am assuming that the Kempston Radiator has it's pegs at the base spaced at 300mm apart as the original, the Kempstone literature (although very helpful) doesn't specify this.
Regarding the fitting of the automatic thermal fan switch, I shall discard the copper seal washer and replace it with a M22 Dowty Bonded Seal, coated with lashings of sealant. This will require far less torque tightening to get the same seal as with a copper or aluminium washer and reduce the risk of overtightening and so damaging the plastic housing. I have been told that this will require only hand tightening plus a little bit more.
I will keep you informed of my progress (or lack of it)
Thanks again for the comments, they have all been very helpful.
Cheers,
Andy
 
Kempston radiator sent to wrong address and now lingering in courier depot some 45 miles away. I may as well have fetched it myself in the first place!
Courier will try again tomorrow, we shall see.
This radiator has been driven tantalisingly close to me and then whisked away!
 
Radiator arrived from Kempston Radiators and is of superior quality to the original, with a brass insert where there is a thread for the thermal switch.
Radiator dropped straight in with no messing (following the advise from you guys).
The fit of the cap is a bit 'iffy' but it seems to be holding in there.
I have used a 22mm Dowty seal washer with the thermal switch and this seems good, it doesn't require much tightening to get a good seal and it hasn't leaked yet.
Now all is sealed and not leaking I have flushed the system (which was clean) with Radflush and then water and filled it up with the required amount of coolant/antifreeze.

Question, am I correct in draining the system by disconnecting the radiator bottom hose?
This does seem a little crude and the coolant seems to spray everywhere at high pressure! I am sure on one of my previous R4's there was a brass drain tap at the base of the radiator, a nice trickle that could easily be directed into a bowl.

I have yet to test all of this on a long run, hopefully it will be okay, apart from the odd airlock or’ boil up’ in the expansion bottle, which seems to happen every now and then, and then corrects itself!

Cheers.
 
Glad you've had success with your radiator; thanks for posting about it :¬)

I've (twice) used the bottom hose method as I've not had a tap on the bottom of any radiators I've had. Also, I'm not brave/supple enough to tackle the drain plug at the back of the engine block (see this post).
 
Thanks, I'll give the engine block drain plug a miss. With my luck (or lack of it) this would surely get damaged. The coolant that came out was so clean that the flush I did was not really necessary, but I did it anyway, because it's a few years since it was done.
I have put a 50/50 mix of 5 year antifreeze in this time and I will monitor the state of the coolant via the expansion bottle.
 
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