R4 TL restauration

[Jurjenz]

And what does this tell?  More to come!

 

[Jurjenz]

And we got married!

All a beer on me!

 

[jjad]

Congratulations!

 

[Marco93]

 

[Richnd1974]

Congratulations

 

[petak]

Hiphiphurrraaaaaaa!

 

[Domsky]

Thanks for that tool! Seems like it is very useful.

EDIT

Found this comment on a youtubevideo which also used a drill. Makes sense, learnful lesson for the next time:

ER You should NEVER rotary lap a valve in esp with a drill, it HAS to be a BACK AND FORTH action then LIFT OFF the seat to reset the valve paste on the seat, (as the paste grinding sound goes quieter usually 4 or 5 times ) then turn the valve a few degrees and then rept motion. like starting a fire but if you rotate it, you burn scars into the seat,, meaning the valve seat gets hotter and clogs with carbon deposits in these scars, which then burns the seat again meaning another head rebuild. And you start the VALVE Grinding with COARSE paste, then clean off and move to a SMOOTH grinding paste for a nice consistent groove free flat greyish looking seat ! The best way to check if it has worked is to use a soft pencil like a HB and scribe three vertical lines at 120 degrees apart on the seat when you refit the valve on the seat twist the valve when in contact with the seat and the 3 pencil marks will rub evenly along the seat, if not then the seats need regrinding again or you need new valves and or valve guides.,

This is for the lazy mechanics. EAZILAP by GUNSONS, been here 40 odd years, a DRILL ADAPTER, which oscillates back and forth ( ) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunson-G4...nds-Grinder-22-28mm-Sucker-Head-/310719942809

yes , unless you apply some wd40 on the paste , it makes it thinner, but i only do it on the budget jobs . In the proper rebuilds i still do it by hand

 

[ecurb.renots]

And we got married!

All a beer on me!

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Congratulations on your marriage , like the R4 one of your better choices

 

[harbourseal]

In dutch.
Gefeliciteerd.

 

[Scoobyznack]

@Jurjenz excellent news!

With best future wishes for you both, Simon.

 

[Cornish4]

Congratulations to you both

 

[Lobster]

Congratulations! Really enjoyed reading all this thread and like the AX too

 

[pepper]

Congratulations, awesome looking family..

 

[Jurjenz]

Can't wait to test!

 

[harbourseal]

Good investment Jurjen. I have a 123 on my F6 for over 6 years now. Tried the different setting but gone back to the manufacturers setting.
Put in a new ignition coil as well, if you haven't done so during restoration.

 

[JdeW]

A 123 ignition nice and as Robert wrote indeed an investment
I'm still curious about the difference between the original ignition set-up versus the 123.
After all when driving my GTL before the restoration it went up to 140 km/h easily

 

[Jurjenz]

It drives very smooth and I think it is really worth the investment, but now I need to make miles! (but first I need to fix the 'squeez' in the back.. Very annoying)

At below, bonnet locking mechanism is fixed now

 

[laxeian]

The ground through the engine bay in 1 st photo looks dirty and damp

 

[JdeW]

but now I need to make miles! (but first I need to fix the 'squeez' in the back.. Very annoying)

Yes make those miles Jurjen and that 'squeez' in the back could be the hat stand squeaking in it's mountings and hmmm that's a typical R4 sound you could apply a layer of felt in those mountings to 'isolate' that annoying 'squeeze'

 

[Jurjenz]

Muwhaha, I finally find that much annoying squeeze in the back! On each bump the sound distracted me, but not anymore! It was the nut-washer-tailgate hinge. It put a fiber washer between the tailgate and nut. Now only, nothing but a deep silence in the car. How delightful!