Seized clutch

[BatW]

I've spent the day recommisioning my '85 GTL which has been laid up a couple of years

One of the niggles when it was last driven was intermittant starting. Other than that, the car was running perfectly; I've stripped the starter motor and solonoid, cleaned it all up and reassembled and it seems fine.

But now I can't seem to any gears when the engines running. I've had the clutch cable bracket off to get the starter motor out so I first thought the clutch adjustment had gone out but adjusting the tension on the cable doen't make any difference. Is the clutch adjustment sensitive or is more likely the clutch has seized since it was last driven?

Cheers, Mark

 

[malcolm]

My Gordini had a seized clutch when I first started her up this year. With free space in front of the car try starting it in gear with the handbrake off (so it can move forward if necessary) and the clutch fully depressed. That freed mine off instantly, but it's worth keeping the other foot over the brake just in case yours is more stuck.

 

[BatW]

Thanks Malcolm

Is there a definetive way of telling if the clutch is seized as I've never had a problem like this before?

 

[benchseat]

This happens quite frequently with R4s that have been standing for a long time without use.

My way of freeing the clutch - quite drastic, but as long as you're careful does not cause any damage - is as follows : (i) Put car in gear (ii) Under bonnet (left hand side of engine), wedge the clutch actuating lever (using piece of 2x2, crowbar or something else long, thin and rigid (!)) in the "disengaged" position (this means levering it backwards - easiest way is to get one person to depress the clutch pedal fully while the other person then wedges the lever) (iii) Obtain longshaft screwdriver (18 ins. or so), (iv) Insert tip of screwdriver carefully between clutch pressure plate and flywheel plate (this is visible through the clutch outer housing) (v) tap screwdriver gently with hammer to push the screwdriver a bit further in, (vi) Rock car back & forth by hand (vii) Rotate clutch plate by pushing car back/forward a few inches (viii) repeat.

After a few repetitions the clutch plates will spring apart from the "seized" position (the two plates are stuck together) to "free" (about 1/8th inch space between them).

This has never failed for me : you have to be careful to cause minimal damage to the clutch pressure plate. An ordinary length screwdriver can be used but a longshaft one is much easier to hold with one hand and tap with the other. A bright "trouble lamp" is needed so you can see the clutch assembly easily.

Once the car is in regular use again the rust/crud (or whatever is causing the problem) gets cleaned automatically off the clutch plates and the problem does not recur (until the next time the car is laid up). Keeping the car in a dry atmosphere probably helps to avoid this happening.

 

[Steve Hennessey]

Put the car in second gear, hold the clutch pedal down whilst someone is towing you, keep working the clutch in and out and it will free off. If leaving for a long time wedge the clutch pedal half open with a piece of wood!

 

[BatW]

Now wedged and tow rope on order. Lets see what its like at the weekend.

Cheers, Mark

 

[BatW]

Fixed.

Still needed bumping on the starter motor, but its now running fine.

Thanks for the advice.