- Thread starter DaxOn119
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harbourseal
Renault R4 Lunatic
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- 1,045
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- Breda The Netherlands
Hi David, Welcome to this forum.
If you want to adjust your valve clearance.
Do as following:
Take the rocker cover of the engine.
Put you car in 4th gear. Jack the right front wheel up until it is free from the ground.
If you turn the wheel in the normal travel direction you should see the rockers going up and down.
Count the valves from the front of the engine to the back.
Turn the wheel and look over the rockers start with valve no. 8 (closest to the firewall)
If the rocker goes down it opens. just before it goes up again it is fully open.
You can adjust valve no. 1 which is fully closed now and the rocker is lose from the valve.
Scheme:
valve open No. 8 (exhaust) check and adjust valve No. 1 (exhaust 0.20 mm)
valve open No. 6 (inlet) check and adjust valve No. 3 (inlet 0,15 mm)
valve open No. 4 (exhaust) check and adjust valve No. 5 (exhaust 0,20 mm)
valve open No. 7 (inlet) check and adjust valve No. 2 (inlet 0,15 mm)
valve open No. 1 (exhaust) check and adjust valve No. 8 (exhaust 0,20 mm)
valve open No. 3 (inlet) check and adjust valve No. 6 (inlet 0,15 mm)
valve open No. 5 (exhaust) check and adjust valve No. 4 (exhaust 0,20 mm)
valve open No. 2 (inlet) check and adjust valve No. 7 (inlet 0,15 mm)
succes.
If you want to adjust your valve clearance.
Do as following:
Take the rocker cover of the engine.
Put you car in 4th gear. Jack the right front wheel up until it is free from the ground.
If you turn the wheel in the normal travel direction you should see the rockers going up and down.
Count the valves from the front of the engine to the back.
Turn the wheel and look over the rockers start with valve no. 8 (closest to the firewall)
If the rocker goes down it opens. just before it goes up again it is fully open.
You can adjust valve no. 1 which is fully closed now and the rocker is lose from the valve.
Scheme:
valve open No. 8 (exhaust) check and adjust valve No. 1 (exhaust 0.20 mm)
valve open No. 6 (inlet) check and adjust valve No. 3 (inlet 0,15 mm)
valve open No. 4 (exhaust) check and adjust valve No. 5 (exhaust 0,20 mm)
valve open No. 7 (inlet) check and adjust valve No. 2 (inlet 0,15 mm)
valve open No. 1 (exhaust) check and adjust valve No. 8 (exhaust 0,20 mm)
valve open No. 3 (inlet) check and adjust valve No. 6 (inlet 0,15 mm)
valve open No. 5 (exhaust) check and adjust valve No. 4 (exhaust 0,20 mm)
valve open No. 2 (inlet) check and adjust valve No. 7 (inlet 0,15 mm)
succes.
Paul Narramore
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 840
- Location
- Aylesford, Kent
I really must adjust the valve clearances on my car as the clattering is irritating. Tell me, what is the rocker cover gasket made from - cork or plastic? If it's cork I'll renew it. Plastic, and I might be able to re-use it. Ta.
mr-reno-139
AKA Paul Cunningham
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- 2,247
- Location
- lancing west sussex england
Rubber and I've got about 20 here ☺
Paul Narramore
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 840
- Location
- Aylesford, Kent
Well I finally got around to adjusting the valve clearances the other day and it was pretty straightforward. The existing plastic gasket was fine and hadn't hardened but I replaced it with a new one anyway. The two nuts holding down the rocker box were (once I'd cleaned them up) flanged copper nuts rather than knurled nuts I'd seen in Haynes. The inside of the rocker box was filthy with about 3mm thickness of burned on oil and it took 90mins or so in the parts cleaner and scraping with a wooden stick and steel wool to get the insides nice and clean. The top of the head itself was also caked up with carbon but other than to wipe what I could get to with a rag soaked in White Spirit, I reluctantly had to leave it alone as scraping off the deposit would have resulted in some falling down the pushrod holes and find it's way to the oil pump in the sump. Mr Reno recommended adding a litre of diesel to the oil and running this for a week or two as this would loosen up the muck. The Renault Handbook specifically mentions NOT to use flushing oil.
I removed the plugs after marking the plug leads 1 to 4 as this made turning the engine over easier. Rather than jacking the car up, putting it into 4th gear and turning one of the front wheels, I put a socket onto the crankshaft pulley nut yet I still found it a little difficult to detect when a rocker was fully down.
Haynes specifically warns against using pliers and to use two spanners. The locking nuts are 10mm but the heads of the adjusters must be 3mm or 4mm and I didn't have anything small enough. Mr Reno kindly sent me a picture of his valve adjusting tool which would have made life easier. Searching on eBay, there are numerous tools, some of which are expensive, and these are basically a short socket and arm plus a central rod with either a screw driver end or a slot (for our cars) and an adjusting knob. I shall get one for next time.
After cleaning up the rocker box, I gave it a few coats of silver and lacquer, and then proceeded to fit it back to front. Replacing it correctly in amongst the heater hoses and cables resulted in my less-than-pristine silver rocker box having a number of scratches.
The over-engineered sprung loaded throttle cable tensioner then broke send stuff pinging around the workshop. The weakened central plastic guide was already cracked but it was fitting a new e-clip which did the final damage as it was the groove in the plastic which finally gave way. I have replaced this unnecessary device with the threaded adjuster from an old BMW motorcycle brake cable and everything seems fine.
I may have to either shorten the quadrant spring which closes the throttle or fit a stronger one as the tick over could be even lower still even though the tickover screw is backed off and the cable a little slack.
So was the clatter any better? Well every valve was found to be a little loose so I got a little nip on the feeler gauges but I can't really tell the difference. When I took it out for a run yesterday, I turned off my hearing aids and it's pretty quiet now ;-)
I removed the plugs after marking the plug leads 1 to 4 as this made turning the engine over easier. Rather than jacking the car up, putting it into 4th gear and turning one of the front wheels, I put a socket onto the crankshaft pulley nut yet I still found it a little difficult to detect when a rocker was fully down.
Haynes specifically warns against using pliers and to use two spanners. The locking nuts are 10mm but the heads of the adjusters must be 3mm or 4mm and I didn't have anything small enough. Mr Reno kindly sent me a picture of his valve adjusting tool which would have made life easier. Searching on eBay, there are numerous tools, some of which are expensive, and these are basically a short socket and arm plus a central rod with either a screw driver end or a slot (for our cars) and an adjusting knob. I shall get one for next time.
After cleaning up the rocker box, I gave it a few coats of silver and lacquer, and then proceeded to fit it back to front. Replacing it correctly in amongst the heater hoses and cables resulted in my less-than-pristine silver rocker box having a number of scratches.
The over-engineered sprung loaded throttle cable tensioner then broke send stuff pinging around the workshop. The weakened central plastic guide was already cracked but it was fitting a new e-clip which did the final damage as it was the groove in the plastic which finally gave way. I have replaced this unnecessary device with the threaded adjuster from an old BMW motorcycle brake cable and everything seems fine.
I may have to either shorten the quadrant spring which closes the throttle or fit a stronger one as the tick over could be even lower still even though the tickover screw is backed off and the cable a little slack.
So was the clatter any better? Well every valve was found to be a little loose so I got a little nip on the feeler gauges but I can't really tell the difference. When I took it out for a run yesterday, I turned off my hearing aids and it's pretty quiet now ;-)
mr-reno-139
AKA Paul Cunningham
- Messages
- 2,247
- Location
- lancing west sussex england
Sorry to have to tell you off again
BUT you were actually turning engine over using camshaft pulley retaining bolt
Several issues the worst being that it is possible to upset the timing chain tensioner and even worse have been asked for a camshaft due to someone breaking one as they never took plugs out
Definitely much easier to jack up one side and turn tyre even with plugs in
Regarding accelerator cable worth going to bicycle shop buying derailleur gear inner cable to use as spare acc cable for you to engineer a metal pedal fitting to as that right angle plastic bit is very fragile
BUT you were actually turning engine over using camshaft pulley retaining bolt
Several issues the worst being that it is possible to upset the timing chain tensioner and even worse have been asked for a camshaft due to someone breaking one as they never took plugs out
Definitely much easier to jack up one side and turn tyre even with plugs in
Regarding accelerator cable worth going to bicycle shop buying derailleur gear inner cable to use as spare acc cable for you to engineer a metal pedal fitting to as that right angle plastic bit is very fragile
Paul Narramore
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 840
- Location
- Aylesford, Kent
Then it was a good job I took the plugs out then. And here's me thinking you might have suggested I had slightly undone the bolt.
Yes, having looked at their design, and they aren't cheap, I shall have a go at making one from a 10mm box spanner and an old screwdriver.
Thanks for the tip about the cable but now I've found the old BMW brake cables, they should see me out now ;-)
Yes, having looked at their design, and they aren't cheap, I shall have a go at making one from a 10mm box spanner and an old screwdriver.
Thanks for the tip about the cable but now I've found the old BMW brake cables, they should see me out now ;-)
Paul Narramore
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 840
- Location
- Aylesford, Kent
Yesterday I adjusted my valves clearance...
This engine has nearly 70k kms, amazing how regular oil changes kept it clean - while my f4's engine is really dirty and blackish under the cover...
My cylinder head looked nothing like as clean as this ;-)
Paul Narramore
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 840
- Location
- Aylesford, Kent
Paul, I've just checked. I was turning the engine over on the crankshaft pulley bolt not the camshaft pulley bolt. What do you take me for? Stupid?
I've also located a mysterious scraping sound when I opened and closed the bonnet. No it wasn't dry hinges, it was the bottom of the number plate scraping on the cross member. 1mm filed off the bottom of the number plate and she's as quiet as a church mouse.
I've also located a mysterious scraping sound when I opened and closed the bonnet. No it wasn't dry hinges, it was the bottom of the number plate scraping on the cross member. 1mm filed off the bottom of the number plate and she's as quiet as a church mouse.
mr-reno-139
AKA Paul Cunningham
- Messages
- 2,247
- Location
- lancing west sussex england
Sorry to disillusion you and I'm never wrong don't forget the pulley you were turning over which is attached to the only end of the engine accessible is definitely the camshaft pulley this drives the water pump and indirectly the alternator
Paul Narramore
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 840
- Location
- Aylesford, Kent
Paul Narramore
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 840
- Location
- Aylesford, Kent
Sorry, I was in my local micro pub and a young wiz kid offered to put the images on here. Utterly baffled me. So these show the original spring loaded tensioner and the ex-motorcycle throttle cable what's it.
Paul Narramore
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 840
- Location
- Aylesford, Kent
Paul, Sorry but I AM right. Top pulley - water pump, middle pulley - camshaft, bottom pulley - crankshaft. Well that what Haynes and logic tells me. I definitely used the bottom pulley to turn the engine over.
Interesting. For the second time since I've owned her, the temperature warning came on just as I got home. The fan, which does work, wasn't on nor did the engine show signs of overheating. I really must flush the cooling system through sometime.
There's a slight clutch judder sometimes. Pulling away on an incline seems to bring it on but it doesn't happen every time. Must check engine mountings.
Interesting. For the second time since I've owned her, the temperature warning came on just as I got home. The fan, which does work, wasn't on nor did the engine show signs of overheating. I really must flush the cooling system through sometime.
There's a slight clutch judder sometimes. Pulling away on an incline seems to bring it on but it doesn't happen every time. Must check engine mountings.
mr-reno-139
AKA Paul Cunningham
- Messages
- 2,247
- Location
- lancing west sussex england
Dear paul you have definitely been in your micro pubs too often I'm sure there must be a page somewhere in this Haynes manual people talk about
So far two people have liked my post so they must obviously agree with me I may even find a picture to convince you that you are wrong
Best wishes from sunny Worthing
So far two people have liked my post so they must obviously agree with me I may even find a picture to convince you that you are wrong
Best wishes from sunny Worthing
mr-reno-139
AKA Paul Cunningham
- Messages
- 2,247
- Location
- lancing west sussex england
As promised I've found a suitable photo from over 1400 on my phone
The red light tempurature sensor is bolted to the cylinder head next to the rocker cover these can give false reading and come on too early which is better than too late as 104 centigrade not good
Feel free to contact my 24hour helpline btw
The red light tempurature sensor is bolted to the cylinder head next to the rocker cover these can give false reading and come on too early which is better than too late as 104 centigrade not good
Feel free to contact my 24hour helpline btw
JonathanT
Not normal for Norfolk
- Messages
- 1,332
- Location
- Wymondham Norfolk
I see I see! -thank you So the spring clip goes on the carb side of the support post. Mine is missing the spring clip and always has.
The result it the sliding core often gets stuck entering the cream plastic 'washer' making the engine run fast - ok will add spring clip.
I can see how the motobike mod would work too but there is no tolerance for a heavy foot on the loud pedal
Paul Narramore
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 840
- Location
- Aylesford, Kent
Paul, A sincere apology old friend. I had yet another look at my engine today and the bottom pulley couldn't possibly be a crankshaft pulley, not with the transmission in the way. Sufferin' catfish!
Jonathan, You'll need to ask for a packet of assorted E-clips.
Jonathan, You'll need to ask for a packet of assorted E-clips.