What have I done! (R4 GTL)

[Janko]

Maybe it's the light switch fault? Have u tried to bypass the light switch?

 

[Geoff in the Gully]

If brake light appears to work when lights are off and not when they are on this suggests the wiring to the brake globe is reversed.
The tail lights becomes the brighter light and when the brake is pressed you see no difference. Only see the dimmer lights when the tail light is off.

Other lights being dim suggests earth problem also.
Your test with wire from globe to battery would be affected by brake/tail light reversed.
Change wiring and see what happens then.

 

[petak]

Are you missing the Earth wire for the body between the battery and the inner wing do the front lights all work correctly

Front did not work alright at the start, but problem was in earth on wings.
I have disconnected earth from front wings and bypass them to battery minus pole and now they are working fine.
Earth wire from body to battery is together with right light earth.
You believe that wire from battery to earth should be connected to chassis directly?

Thank you mr-reno-139......One more thing to check

 

[petak]

Maybe it's the light switch fault? Have u tried to bypass the light switch?

Tested brake light switch with instrument and he is working alright....even tried second one and all is same

 

[petak]

If brake light appears to work when lights are off and not when they are on this suggests the wiring to the brake globe is reversed.
The tail lights becomes the brighter light and when the brake is pressed you see no difference. Only see the dimmer lights when the tail light is off.

Other lights being dim suggests earth problem also.
Your test with wire from globe to battery would be affected by brake/tail light reversed.
Change wiring and see what happens then.

You are sugesting that i have mixed wires from brake light, and tail light. Brake light wire conected to tail light and vice versa.

If i remember correctly i have tried to switch them and did not get any result....but t was some time ago so will try it again.

It does not cost me anything to try once more and be certain.




Thank you all for shearing your thought and help me to sort this wire mess on my one

 

[petak]

Are you missing the Earth wire for the body between the battery and the inner wing do the front lights all work correctly

Apparently you were right.

Last night could not wait and gone to the gaŕrage to check this one out.

I was alone so could not tell it 100% but it looks like all lights were working as they should from the cabin.
Garage was in the dark so by reflection of light through garage, as i turn each light, i could conclude that they are working correctly.
And they had very bright glow.
At the end i have turn lights on, press brake light, engaged reverse, and one indicator at the time and all was working as should.

I must buy you a bear (at least) when we see each other. Thank you for help.

Small thing jet to do and of to get licence for drive it on the road ......legaly

 

[Azazello]

I must buy you a bear (at least) when we see each other. Thank you for help.

A bit of fur could be useful in cold winters...

 

[petak]

bear will heat little bit more than beer.....

 

[mr-reno-139]

Glad to be of help to you
Guess over 40 years of experience with cars in general and more importantly still finding R4 of great interest to me feel it is my duty to offer advice and encouragement to other enthusiasts ☺

 

[alenoid]

Impressive work. I've saw all the 13 pages. Hope to see new pictures soon! Congrats!

 

[petak]

Thank you Alenoid for reading.

Got stuck with that boat i am working on (almost 24/7) so R4 is waiting for his time.

Managed to raise front torsion bars once, and have lifted front side 4 cm. Need to lift it at least 10cm more.

Find out that rubbers on door i have bought on ebay (link is few pages back) are not tick enough (wind is blowing on some places while drive it) so looking for original one.

One guy here (in Croatia) is selling rubber for 4 doors bought on franzose.de
Believe that will get deal with him

For 5th doors i will contact angel from this forum.

 

[petak]

also have found why my car did not wanted to work with petrol from tank.

If you go few pages back you can find out that i have bought strong and durable steel pipe for brakes and fuel rather than copper one.

As lines were fitted to car some long time before fuel started to go thru pipes.

So when engine start time has come fuel did not go thru pipes.
Started engine with fuel in bottle to clear away problems with pump, carb or spark.

But as i switch to tank engine wont work.
Pump was making vacuum in pipes.

Take fuel tank from car and tried to blow pipe (was thinking that some garbage form tank was stacked inside - aldo it was minor possibility as i have cleaned tank form inside) but no luck.

Then i pulled out fuel line and find out where problem is.

My strong, durable steel pipe got rotten form inside and rotten so heavily that fuel could not go thru.

Some pictures of that rust




Solution was to go to shop and buy 6mm copper pipe and change it.

Here it is


Now i have fully working fuel line that brings fuel to carb.

 

[mojobaby]

that's a pity! didn't think about the possibility of rust, but I'm glad you have found a solution

 

[JonathanT]

Aw more effort! Type of pipe i beleive is Kunifer pipe which I gather does not corrode

 

[petak]

Me neither Mojobaby.
Not even slightest suspicion on the pipe. but at the end that was the problem.
I still can not believe that it has rusted just from moisture in the air. It is mystery to me.

Yes JonathahT
Cunifer is right pipe. It is actually stronger alloy of Copper (Cu - Copper, Ni - Nickel, Fe - iron and little bit of Mn - Manganese) best material for ships pipelines
But it is more expensive (cca 3xcopper) and you need to order it. Can not go to shop and buy 3,5m
But copper is just good enough and will do the job as good as Cunifer

 

[petak]

Some update!
Got rubbers for all doors from angel....




Tried to glue them on door but that was total fiasco

Have right adhesive for the job but i could not press rubber with clams to stay in place while glue cure. And it takes time to cure. 2 hours at least, but it would be perfect over night.
glue that i am using


As i see it now i will need to dismantle all doors one by one and glue rubber and then get doors back on car.

Does anyone have some smart solution so i do not need to remove door off the car?

Any suggestions will be appreciate!!!

Also bought some new tires for the "car"
SAVA Perfecta (Slovenian brand under continental brand) 155/70/13 75T
and out them on THE wheels.
Comparison old tire (135/70/13) and old rim with new tire (155/70/13) and new rim


Old rims are going for soda blasting and freshening up (powder coating). Will be used as winter wheels with 135/80/13 tire

New wheels on the car


With safety lock (just to be sure my wheels will stay mine).

Had to work on those safety lock nuts as cone was not good for rims. Lathe was working slightly.




To get whole picture here are some pictures




front of the car need to go up

 

[Azazello]

I use a different kind of glue, to be applied on both sides and then quite adhesive.
You can try keeping the rubber in place whike curing with short pieces of paper masking tape. ..

 

[petak]

Can you tell me what kind of glue you use, Azazello.

Will try with masking tape. Thank you for idea!

 

[Azazello]

Can you tell me what kind of glue you use, Azazello.

Will try with masking tape. Thank you for idea!

Or something similar, I am sure pattex has a similar product too.

 

[angel]

I use contact glue, that needs to be applied to both the door and the rubber, then left to dry before fitting the rubber to the metal. With this type of rubber I found it's better to rub it slightly with 400 grade abrasive paper at the sides where the glue is to be applied, in order to remove any residues from manufacturing processes.
It's way easier if you remove the doors from the car.