What have I done! (R4 GTL)

[petak]

If there is no mistake and So you are saing that all our cars are set lower than they should be .

Must say that i do not remember seeing any R4 so high.

Now i am even more corious to find one R4 set to height by the book and measure other figures that are interested to me l.

Angel....What is height of any of your R4s at the begining of the chassis side crossmembers?

 

[malcolm]

The cars with 1100 engines have a lower front ride height than the 850cc cars. I think they just put the heavier engine in it drove OK so they didn't bother altering the suspension. The 1100 cars sit lower than the 850 cars as a result.

This is what Ermintrude looked like with factory ride heights.

 

[petak]

This is more like all R4s i remember.
Do you have H1 and H2 measurement from that time?

 

[JdeW]

 

[malcolm]

This is more like all R4s i remember.
Do you have H1 and H2 measurement from that time?

I've never seen factory ride heights published for the 1108cc cars. I measured Ermintrude https://www.renault4.co.uk/tech-ride-heights.htm

 

[angel]

There was no alteration to H3 on the GTL. Factory workshop manual does not make any particular mention, only describes different way of torsion bar removal / replacement and ride height setting on introduction of fixed torsion bar mountings in 1978 - coincidentally just as the GTL came out. The same goes for RTA 388.7 (for GTL and Savane).
Ermintrude certainly sits too low, this is evident in your measured heights, too. I just did a customer's '89 Savane, with roughly Ermintrude's tyre to wheel arch gap, and H3 was 101mm - that's 60mm too low. Both torsion bars were on initial position (stickers on bars aligned with punch marks on lower wishbones). Car has done 163.000 kms, there is certainly some torsion bar sagging with mileage.
When I reset torsion bar position so as to have an anchor lever to floor aperture edge distance of 10mm (as on the workshop manual) ride height went to factory spec, too. With H1=263mm (145/80/13 tyres) I got an H2 of 220 mm - had to reset it again to have 20mm lower ride height, as we had agreed. The car is still in my workshop. I am going to take photos and measure chassis to ground height at jacking points and also wheel arch to wheel distance tomorrow.

 

[angel]

Here you are. Ride height has been set 20mm lower than factory figure. H2 is 195mm and all other measurements seem to be pretty much like yours before lowering the front end.

 

[petak]

TX Jjdew....i know about this figures but i could not understand that front end is so high at wheel arch if you set H2-H1 to 41mm

Malcolm....Ermintrude was very low according to numbers

Angel...thank you for discussion, pictures and measurements....I appreciate it.....Yor car was low as Ermintrude....Now it looks more like it should be.
And even now it is lower than it should be as factory meant
Mine is slightly lower.
Even rear end is about same height as mine

So i can conclude that cars are sagging over time. And that everything is fine with my car . It is just matter of preferences. Or should i say As one likes.

I am happy as it is now.

TX guys

 

[petak]

Eight in row.... Croatian MOT.

 

[Cyprusnoddycar]

A perfect restoration ! Well done !

 

[petak]

Hello to all old and new forum members.

I am still here and very much alive. Same as my GTL.

Year passed by very quickly. Some other projects are taking my time so R4 is standing aside and working as mule.
Have not done much on car exect crucial repairs that need to be dome so it can be useable.

Still need to cranc each morning and be able to do 100km-ish a day.
That kind of usage is leaving scars and some attention need to be done.

Brakes are little bit of when braking suddenly. Brake all-around are same one from renovation.
Front suspension rubber bushes need changing again.
And rear outer mounting rubber bushes are gone and need to change them.


You can see crack i rubber.

Planning to take it for rest a month or so to deal with this things.

Few moments from past year

At brothers house


Helping brother to move to new house


Ikea shoping



Resting peacefully in shade during hot summer day


Some random numbers from few days back



And getting christmas three at 15°C




Merry Christmas to all of you and your families!

Cheers!

 

[petak]

After long planing and few time postponing finally get my blue one in "box" for some service

Luckily i have good friend BorgeB who unselfishly lend me his car to use while i do work on mine



Then i got mine into air. Secure it not to fall down while i work on it


And took both sides apart,



and took off upper wishbone as rubber bushes are gone


Doing it i have found few ball joint dust rubber damaged. Will change only dust rubber with some i bought from aliexpress. Do you change only dust rubbers or you change whole ball joint? Where you get dust rubbers from if you do?





Also one outer driveshaft rubber bellow started do tear apart. Change it now or leave it as it is while it last?

 

[petak]

Disk have small edge but edge is same on both sides and it is not to big. Tomorrow will measure disk thickness but i believe it will be good to keep it.

Break pads have some 7-8mm left. So i think they are also good to go.

Flexible brake lines are definitely for change


And not sure for calipers.
How can i test if calipers are working good now that they are taken of?



And noticed some play in sliders.

They are very easily moved in and out

Is that play and easy movement normal, desireable or should not be?

I have two other calipers, which i plan to sandblast and paint. But little bit afraid of sandblasting not to have problem with sand inside the calipers once i paint them i put back together



caliper pistons are rusted from inside


CAn somebody advice what grease to use when put back piston?


Parts are ready. still waiting hand brake cables to arrive. But it is not necessary to have them now as rear end is still some time away.


Waiting some daylight to continue work


Cheers

 

[petak]

Yesterday, tried new sandblasting gun and use it on calipers.

Calipers before treatment



pistons from inside


After





Is there easy way to preserve calipers from rust beside painting.
They look so nice freshly sandblasted, and would like to preserve them like this.

Disk brakes are at 9,4mm (10mm is new disk, 9mm is minimum thickness allowed)
Pads are at 7,5-8mm (new are 15,5mm, minimum thickness is not defined)

 

[JdeW]

Nice calipers again Hrvoje
Besides painting you could clear powdercoat them or a real ceramic coat

 

[petak]

TX Jdew for suggestion, but that all takes time and i am little bit in a hurry this time, for this pair of calipers. Maybe other two pairs that i have spare could powdercoat.

Today managed to find some time to deal with calipers.

Cleaned them and prepared for zink painting


And put one layer of zink paint




And tomorrow two coats of high temp black paint.

Beside that i checked wishbones.

One is bended little bit





And the other has crack in rubber bush sleeves




This one will go back on car so i can be movable, and two new reinforced ones (with ball join and rubber sleeves) are already ordered

 

[malcolm]

Doing it i have found few ball joint dust rubber damaged. Will change only dust rubber with some i bought from aliexpress. Do you change only dust rubbers or you change whole ball joint? Where you get dust rubbers from if you do?

I've tried replacing the rubber cover in the past. The modern balljoints aren't designed to accept new rubber covers and the quality of cheap rubber is terrible and it only lasts for one year. Better replace the balljoints.

For the driveshafts often the replacement boots are 'universal' and fit poorly. Something from one of the classic Renault suppliers would be better. It's nice to replace bad rubber parts while the car is apart but see the other thread about driveshaft boots.

Good to see your work.

 

[petak]

Once i managed to buy form ebay.co.uk silicone transparent rubber ball joint covers. One of them i still have on upper wishbone and it is good. But i lost track where i bought it. And can not find it anymore

For outer driveshaft joint i use BERNER silicone universal boot that you cut to length. It fits alright and clamps are low enough to pass lower arm.
And for inner driveshaft joint use SASIC. it fits perfectly and last long.

It was time to give some love back to my R4. I really neglected him for past time.


Today managed to renew calipers

Preparation for instalation


Inner seal fit in place


Some caliper grease on piston and boot


Putting back together was easy once you learn that it is smart thing to put boot on piston before fitting in caliper

Caliper bracket explode view


Used same grease for guiding pins


New flexible hoses with new copper washer. It seems taht flexible hose could be 2 cm longer but they are same length as original so i do not worry. Believe it will be better once car is back on wheels.


Left caliper and hose in place and connected


Change rubber bushes on both upper wishbones. Old came out and new slipped in really easy so i think that sleeves are little bit worned out. This one will do until new wishbones arrive

Left side finished


Right side finished


Still need to tighten driveshafts (when car is on wheels) and bleed brakes (but that after i finish rear end brakes)

 

[Cyprusnoddycar]

Once i managed to buy form ebay.co.uk silicone transparent rubber ball joint covers. One of them i still have on upper wishbone and it is good. But i lost track where i bought it. And can not find it anymore

For outer driveshaft joint i use BERNER silicone universal boot that you cut to length. It fits alright and clamps are low enough to pass lower arm.
And for inner driveshaft joint use SASIC. it fits perfectly and last long.

It was time to give some love back to my R4. I really neglected him for past time.


Today managed to renew calipers

Preparation for instalation
View attachment 32742

Inner seal fit in place
View attachment 32744

Some caliper grease on piston and boot
View attachment 32743

Putting back together was easy once you learn that it is smart thing to put boot on piston before fitting in caliper
View attachment 32745
Caliper bracket explode view
View attachment 32746

Used same grease for guiding pins
View attachment 32747

New flexible hoses with new copper washer. It seems taht flexible hose could be 2 cm longer but they are same length as original so i do not worry. Believe it will be better once car is back on wheels.
View attachment 32748

Left caliper and hose in place and connected
View attachment 32749

Change rubber bushes on both upper wishbones. Old came out and new slipped in really easy so i think that sleeves are little bit worned out. This one will do until new wishbones arrive

Left side finished
View attachment 32750

Right side finished
View attachment 32751

Still need to tighten driveshafts (when car is on wheels) and bleed brakes (but that after i finish rear end brakes)

Well done, you are doing a very professional job. I am doing the same job as you, hope your drive shaft boot clips don't touch the lower arm when the car is jacked up like mine did.

 

[petak]

TX Cyprusnoddycar....

Today lowered front end and lift up rear end.

Loosen handbrake and took of drums



Dusty but in almost same condition as i put them on 9 years ago.

Pads are at 5mm thickness





But as i can see there is nothing to do here except clean them and put drums back in place

That is left for tomorrow as dark catch me.