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GTL Water pump Replacement

mojobaby

Enthusiast
Messages
1,325
In the next couple of weeks, I'm going to have to replace my water pump.
When I drained my 845 engine it was a lot easier because the drain plug is on the side. My GTL is going to be a problem because the drain plug is at the back of the engine.
Would it be easier to just remove the lower hose on the radiator?
Not looking forward to this job!
 
Hi

I have always drained from the lower hose on the GTL's. You need to take care with the removal of the water pump bolts as they have a tendency to snap. Soak with copious amounts of penetrating fluid in the days leading up to removal and on the day of removal. Then carefully undo the bolts a quarter turn at a time and then turn them back a quarter of a turn, slowly working backwards and forwards as you unlock them to free up the rust on the threads. Having to take the cylinder head off to drill out the broken bolts and re-tap the threads is not much fun. If you are stuck for a water pump, I have a spare new one.

Best Wishes
 
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I would first perform an extensive and thorough cleaning of the coolant system and engine block.
Considerable dirt can have accumulated and caked between the engine block and cylinder liners, which you can only see if you remove the cylinder head.
Especially at the hotspot cylinder 4 in the corner near the drain bolt.
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Hi

I have always drained from the lower hose on the GTL's. You need to take care with the removal of the water pump bolts as they have a tendency to snap. Soak with copious amounts of penetrating fluid in the days leading up to removal and on the day of removal. Then carefully undo the bolts a quarter turn at a time and then turn them back a quarter of a turn, slowly working backwards and forwards as you unlock them to free up the rust on the threads. Having to take the cylinder head off to drill out the broken bolts and re-tap the threads is not much fun. If you are stuck for a water pump, I have a spare new one.

Best Wishes
Thanks for the offer. From past experience I know that the postage from UK to France can be a bit expensive, but I'll definitely keep you in mind when the time comes.
Thanks for the advice about the bolts, I hadn't even considered the rust issue and would have probably used a lot of force. I tend to do that and then break things as my wife keeps reminding me:laughing:
 
Thank you Joop, I suppose its something that I have to consider.
So do I do it now and further complicate my life or leave it until a later date? I think I'll take it one step at a time. I'll first remove the old water pump first and take it from there.

How successful is a hosepipe in blasting out some of the debris?
 
Hi

The build-up of crystals on a waterpump is quite normal on an R4. Especially, in damper climates. This does not necessarily mean a leak. They can build up over the winter. If you are losing antifreeze/coolant you obviously have a leak/or the car is overheating (check the expansion bottle level if you cannot see an obvious leak, is the level of the antifreeze/coolant going down?). I notice you have the original factory clips on the two heater hoses. This means they must have been on there for at least 40 years! They lose their tension over time. Check you are not losing antifreeze from these two hoses. If so, change the clips for good quality hose clips. The only reasons to change the water pump are if the bearing is worn in the pump: check for play/listen out for a whirring bearing noise (or the pump has seized up) or the internal seal within the pump has perished (if the seal has perished, antifreeze/coolant will leak from an oriface which is tucked away under the front of the pump, you would need to feel for it with your hand and if your hand gets wet or you can see a trickle of fluid running down the middle of the pump and collecting in the central recess of the gearbox bell housing, suspect a perished seal.

A leak can also occur due to a perished water pump gasket which would mean taking the pump off in any case in order to change the gasket. If the pump is relatively new (has no play in the bearing and does not have a perished seal), I would change just the gasket. If the pump has been on there for donkeys years, it would make sense to change it rather than put the old one back (as your heater hoses have the original clips, I suspect your pump has been on the vehicle since it rolled off the production line).
 
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Thank you JC, I haven't driven my car for a few months (over winter), although I do start her up on occasion and run the engine for a while.
About a month ago I noticed that the coolant bottle was on "minimum". Two weeks later the bottle was pretty much empty.. I still haven't filled it up as I knew that I was going to change the water pump.
I haven't checked the hole/oriface under the pump but will do so tomorrow.
Tomorrow I'll fill the coolant bottle and run the engine and see if I can spot the leak. Hopefully its one of the hoses.
Will let you know
 
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