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Condenser holding screw being too long and eventually touching the points spring (after many years of trouble free running) was the most recent breakdown I had on my 845, coincidentally with the same distributor.

The torsion bars will normally weaken, that's why they are adjustable. 130.000 kms is "barely run-in" for any R4! :-D If other side sits constantly higher it may be a good idea setting this side to factory setting too, as a starting point. I'm not sure you wanted to hear this, though...

Best practice is to fit one of the 17mm AF bolts first. You may need to insert a screwdriver in the other bolt hole and wiggle it a little to align the hole perfectly. These bolt holes need to be aligned to the chassis holes otherwise the bolts will strip. Not the easiest job, admittedly...

Of course they will not at this point, the bar needs tensioning (turning the anchor lever clockwise when viewing from the back), then they will line up. Are you doing the job alone or do you have an assistant?

I don't think so, the oil filter is already very close to the body. It will be impossible to fit the filter.

Altering the torsion bar position by one tooth at one end only will affect ride height by some 60mm - definitely not fine tuning! Imagine both the wishbone and the anchor lever as stationary and the bar being rotated. The anchor lever will end up at a slightly different position because tooth...

It's easier if you install the bar as per the Haynes instructions (supplement, on the fixed mounting chapter), that is, with the lower arm on the car and the damper fully extended, position the bar so that the anchor lever edge is 10mm from the floor aperture edge. Tension the bar, roll the car...

If all is well inside the gearbox, with engine off, all gears should engage smoothly. Depressing or not the clutch is irrelevant. Having removed the horizontal shift lever, how would you describe that the gears are not easy to shift by the gearbox lever? Does the lever move freely but gears are...

If you remove the shift lever completely and clean and degrease really well both the lever and the bush inside the tube under the dashboard, you will find that lever operation will be really smooth. No lubrication is needed, it only attracts dirt that turns to muck, hence the stiff lever feel...

M4x15mm countersunk head screws.

Some years ago I had posted a tutorial here: https://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/how-to-set-front-ride-heights.5693/#post-33719 It's a more involved job than you think. Besides the anchor lever spanner, you will need a long (~1m) pipe for leverage, and space uder the car for this, so you...

These are the bonnet hinges, the bonnet opens the other way.

Rear wheel bearings are standard tapered roller bearings. A good bearing / hardware shop normally stocks them, or can order them for you. No need to wait for parts to arrive from abroad.

You hold the spanner at the back side of the steering rack (towards the bulkhead), holding its end over the nut with your other hand from the front side of the rack. Both nuts are undone the same way, left hand side one is trickier and you may need to flip the spanner in order to get to another...

Driveshafts for 354 gearbox have a spring loaded inner joint, in order to hold it in the differential planet gear - there is no roll pin or circlip as found on other cars. It's a rather strong spring so it's weird you didn't notice it and may well be the source of your trouble, if it broke on...

Only if it is not too long. A swivelling ring end will also help much.

To me, your problem seems more related to fuel level being too low, than incorrect fuel pump operation. Little can go wrong with a mechanical fuel pump, and it will fail completely rather than operate incorrectly. Also, fuel pressure and delivery rate on a carburetted car is not as critical as...

The "bean can" joint is a double cardan joint usually found on early / original driveshafts. A gaiter is not necessary but some poor road vehicles had one fitted as an extra protection against dirt.

There should be no hidden nuts, there are welded studs on the A pillar and female threads on the door itself.

I have come across many GTLs with 160mm clutches. They may had been replaced in the past, though, I think the flywheel will accept both 160 and 180 mm clutches.