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Regarding the 1108 conversion, it's a late production body, so it will be simply a matter of finding all the GTL parts and bolting them on.

Then maybe somebody in the past may had wired a buzzer to warn about exceeding speed limit. Would be interesting to see how it has been done.

Yes the Turbo engine can be fitted with atmo pistons, but Turbo head is 0,5mm higher (79,8mm) and combustion chamber volume is bigger (45,3cc) so you will end up with slightly lower compresson ratio than factory 10:1. You can always skim cylinder head by 0,5mm, though. Also camshafts are...

M8x1.25 thread, I don't remember length but you can calculate it easily by adding thicknesses of fuel pump, gasket, insulator, washer and nut.

My "hot weather" cooling pack on my 1975 845cc: -74 deg.C thermostat - low temperature but not completely removed, having a slight restriction to coolant flow at this point is said to be beneficial because it eliminates vapor locks in the head / block. -Recored Billancourt radiator with a 3 row...

I guess it's the speedometer magnet bush gone dry or having excessive play. Whenever it has happened to me, it made more of a howling sound than beeping, though.

A 1968 car I have driven had lighter steering than the newer R4s, and going 10mm wider on tyres is not that big deal anyway. Struggling to find a reputable brand 145/80/13 here, too. The only one (relatively) readily available is the Uniroyal Rain Expert 3.

On later cars (1978 onwards), the crossmember is being held by three bolts at each side, two at the rear and one at the front. These front ones are not the easiest to access, but they only need to be loosened a couple of turns because there are open slots at the front of the crossmember. This...

Cowl is plastic, too, and a bit tricky to fabricate, I think. I have both the cowl and the plastic fan if you can't source them locally.

Do you have the fan cowl fitted? I don't see it anywhere on your pictures and it's a must. Also, try to find and fit the later plastic 6-blade fan - this was the hot mod (well...cool anyway!) for the small engine R4s to cope with our hot weather.

It's a simple rubber ring 2-3mm thick that can be cut from rubber sheet in two minutes, there is nothing to go wrong there. Check that top of glass bottle, where this seal sits is OK, otherwise fault lies at valve itself. It can be checked and repaired fairly easily by drilling the rivets that...

"Too cold" is not an option in Cyprus! ;-)

The AFR meter is one of the most useful tools I've ever had. It eliminates guesstimating when doing jobs like carburettor change or setting up an engine with different camshaft etc. I have loads of Solex jets, main, idle and air, if you can't find them there. Let me know what are you going to...

Four. :-)

It was standard equipment to Swedish market R4s since 1970 model year. French R4s had the two piece steering column fitted two years later, while other export countries received it in 1979.

All of my four R4s have them fitted as standard!

/150 and /97 gearboxes are suitable, too.

This is not an accelerator pump, it is a weakening or enrichening device (depending on carburettor) operated by vacuum inside the carburettor. It will affect idling if punctured or stiff, so even if it has been replaced, check that the faces of both the carburettor and its cover are perfectly...

Porsche gearbox final drives are helical bevel gears (if the box is similar to Beetle one) and can be safely flipped over. I would be curious to see gear tooth wear on a hypoid pair of gears that turns at the wrong direction. One additional problem would be to find a 5 speed gearbox with a...

You have the small 845cc distributor and you may find that some electronic ignition kits will not fit inside. R5s and later 845 R4s were equipped with the larger diameter Ducellier unit, similar to those fitted on GTL engines. You may have to fit one of them but be careful, spindle drive is...