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That size is used in early Golfs & Polos (I thought I recognised it.....my years in a V.W. dealership weren't wasted!) so should be available from any motor factor in your area.

I appreciate your old one's somewhat chewed up, but is it not possible to measure it & therefore compare with the one offered for sale? Bear in mind that the belt's tension is adjustable, so a belt a few mm bigger could be catered for in the tensioner. Although this is a "bit late" to hear this...

Clearing out the engine and oil ways won't have done any harm, although you'll probably have to flush it again at some point. As to the petrol pump no longer working, there should be a short rod inside the block, which is activated by the camshaft; the rod moves in & out, thereby activating the...

Basically, yes, although I've always used flushing oil. Most decent motor factors will sell this. Run at tick-over until warm, wait 15 minutes, switch off & drain immediately. Expect to see a lot of crud.......

As you're going to drain that oil anyway (the engine block will need flushing) I shouldn't buy anything too expensive at this stage. Flushing oil acts like the mechanical equivalent of ExLax, and "clears the tubes"of all the detritus within the oil ways but it's very thin, which is why you...

If you're capable of removing the head yourself then do so, take the head to an engineering company, thus alleviating the need to tow the car to them. Once done, replace the head gasket and engine head. I'd suggest draining the sump (as I mentioned before) anyway, since that sludge isn't doing...

First thing must be to drain the muck out of the engine, so undo the sump plug & allow the contents to pour out. Once you've done that, you need to use some flushing oil to clear out the oil ways as much as possible, but this means having the engine running, so you need to put the fuel pump back...

Welcome to the Forum, Ben! There are many Dutch members here and although I'm not Dutch, I drive a Daf 33, so I feel I'm a little Dutch!

Another factor to bear in mind is that the use of yellow headlights is restricted to a specific yellow colour, called "selective" yellow and not just any old yellow light. There's precise scientific definition of Selective Yellow: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_yellow It's this...

Facciamo qualche foto!

Perhaps use some very fine sand paper, to make the terminals shiny before they're reconnected, as well.

Every make of car would be different, but as a rule the wishbones are good points to use. Do NOT use the steering rods or the driveshafts, as you'd bend the former and damage the latter! A front crossmember would also be a suitable point, although bear in mind that the forks of the A frame must...

Yes, D.G. is right about the 750Kg rule, and that the a trailer that has brakes they must be in working order, but the way I interpreted it when I was towing was that the trailer may well have brakes, and that they're in working order, but that doesn't mean they have to be in use when the...

A Frames are a bit of a grey area as far as as the law goes. I had one for 20 years when working as a mechanic and used it for recovery work with a Subaru Forester 4x4 with roof beacon lights and I always wore a hi-vis jacket (or gilet, if in France....). I was never stopped by the "boys in...

One would be the rear brakes locking up too easily when one brakes strongly. Another (if the limiter fails to let any fluid through) would be no braking at the rear of the car at all, which could have catastrophic consequences, as all the braking efficiency would be on the front wheels. A M.O.T...

I've read your latest report with interest and am of the opinion that the cooling system needs to be flushed thoroughly before investigating any electrical systems. Air locks, blockages and non-functioning thermostats would cause some or all of your symptoms. Flushing the system's not difficult...

Your car's behaviour is NOT normal, particularly as it sports an alternator! Alternators supply HUGE amounts of current and are particularly good at charging the battery even when the engine's on tick-over, so something's wrong. Try the following: 1/ Check the voltage at the battery when the...

Yes, there are a number of possibilities: 1/ The car's battery is not in the best of health. In very cold weather the chemical reaction within the battery that generates the electricity slows down and the battery therefore produces less power. In these circumstances when the car's running the...

I would add that one should use a soft-headed hammer to dislodge the cylinders and liners. A piece of wood's useful too, as it can prevent any damaging "jolts" hitting them Another thing that might help is to use the connecting rod to see if the piston can be twisted in the liner, which might...

Yes, the capacitor is often over-looked as a cause of erratically running engines. Worth investigating and testing by substitution with a known good capacitor. It's an easy swap, too.