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best oil for the job

billythefish

billythefish

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I've always put 20/50 oil in my classic cars and added Molyslip to both the engine and gearbox and I've felt a big difference with the Molyslip, which I think gives a smoother running performance.
I remember buying a Ford 100e and the gear box and back div were both noisy, but after putting in some Molyslip in both the noise disappeared.
Has anyone any views on this or is there a better alternative.
billy:)
 
Hello Billy, Ford 100E's, E93A's and cars of that era needed as much help as they could get. However the R4 engine and transmission are far better engineered than those cars so if your R4 engine is healthy and your tranmission is quiet then don't waste your money on additives.
However, if you do experience a noisy smoky engine or a noisy transmission then by all means try additives - you won't have a lot to loose and adding them may buy you a few more miles.

I used to use a good quality 10-40 in my R4. When it got past 125,000 miles I used 20-50. Oil consumption was always less than 2 litres over 6000 miles.

Steve
 
I am a bit suspect about additives especially on gearboxes, where you rely on friction for the synchromesh to work.
When I was studying engineering, one of our professors suggested us to add some graphite compound in the sump, as it would cut down friction noticeably. This may be true on components having metal-to-metal contact (cam followers or maybe piston to cylinder for example), but for critical points like rocker arms or main/big end bearings, lubrication is hydrostatic (these components "float" on a thin, high pressure film of oil) so it would not make sense.
 
oil confused about oil.

I just like to put the best oil I can buy in my little car, when you start reading too much information online you start to get confused, I went to the Castrol info page and they recommend Castrol Magnatec 15W40 Oil which is suppose to be for the older engine, yet other pages say use 20/50 engine oil, so sort of getting confused a little bit, I certainly don't want to put cheap rubbishy oil in the engine, I also think I read some where that Thinner oil could cause the Renault 4 engine to run at a lower oil pressure, and can actually do harm to older engines.
Another thing that I can't find on my 1971 R4 1123 is the oil filter ( I can't crawl under cars any more because I have a bit of arthritis in both my knees, so a little help please.
 
You don't need to worry so much about oil quality. These engines were designed when single grade SAE30 was rocket science, they have low output, relatively low crankshaft speeds, and no hydraulic tappets. There are no known weak points in the lubrication system, either. So any mineral oil, be it 10W-40, 15W-50, or 20W-50 is just fine. I would stay away from thinner oils like 10W-30 as when I had used these on '70s engined, I noticed higher oil consumption. Never tried it on a R4 though, so it's just a guess.

For the oil filter, look at the rear right hand side of the engine block, you will either see the filter or a provision for it (1971 engines were not originally fitted with an oil filter).
 
Push-rod engine enthusiasts of the world UNITE

My R5 and 912E have push-rod engines. R4's do too

In the USA there have been problems with the reduction of Zinc in oil so that catalysts will live longer.
The downside is old school push-rod engines are wearing out quicker due to modern oil formulations. MG and Porsche owners clubs in the USA have commented about this
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

I use Duckhams 20/50 classic oil formulation in both my 912E and R5 for this reason alone.

Lets be careful out there ;)

Rick
 
I tend to go for thinner oils these days - maybe 10W/40. Makes starting less of a chore in the winter not having to move heavy oils around.

For early cars with the oil filter blanking plate but no oil filter it is well worth fitting an adapter and oil filter. The cars weren't expected to last for more than 6 years in those days (rust), but for longer term preservation an oil filter will make more difference than oil choice.
 
I had read somewhere, that these engines had white metal bearings and thus an oil filter was not necessary (but why?). There was an instruction from Renault to fit an oil filter when an engine rebulid with modern steel/aluminium or trimetallic bearings had been performed.
 
I've been using Castrol GTX Magnatec 15w40 in our GTL, though 10W40 would be fine too (we don't need to start him in the cold much; he's garaged). It's a semi-synthetic oil.

Also, I used to use that oil because it was the right type for my Peugeot 309 1.9 Diesel. Now that I've written that off and have a Citroen C4 1.6HDi I need to use 10W40, so may use that in our R4 too.
 
Thanks guys,
I was going to go for the Castrol gtx magnatec 15w40 but decided to go for the Duckhams 20w50, I will probably change the oil again soon before winter for the Castrol because it is a thinner oil.
 
I'we got an answer about the oil to use in the oil change thread. And I'll go for 15W40. But thinking about Castrol GTX Magnatec or Elf Prestigrade.
Will do the oil change next weak after this saturday the front wing change will be over.
 
Oil filter adaptor

Quick query,

My R2109 doesnt have an oil filter. Any idea where I can get an adaptor online please? Assuming I can get one - a part number or 2 for the oil filter would be nice.

Regards

Charliemouse
 
This has been discussed before - do a search as I remember there was an answer to your query.

As for the oil I always use 20/50 in old engines, but 15/40 is also OK as it's more widely available.
 
I found the manual of my car. It's written inside 15W40, 20W40, 20W50.
If temperature drops under -10°C 15W40 or 10W30
If temperature drops under -20°C 5W20 or 10W30
 
20w50 for mine since 15w40 started switching the oil pressure warning light on at tickover. 112K miles may point to oil pump or bearings wear to produce lower oil pressure, but it sounds fine still, so carrying on!
 
Nearly along similar lines, I have two 5 litre plastic containers of Duckhams Q 20W/50 (ie the green stuff) which I bought new in 2006 and have never opened (unbroken seals).

The exam question is, "Will it be ok to use in my 1986 R4 GTL?"

Suggestions please!

Many thanks, Mark B
 
yourmechanic.com says:

"If you have stored the motor oil in a cool, dark place and it has not passed the expiry date, you could use it. However, you must check it carefully for its consistency. If it is thick and sticky, and has solid or gel-like particles, do not use it. If you see that the additives seem to have separated from the oil, it is not safe to use. You must also check its color. Usable motor oils have a clear appearance and if you notice any milkiness or haziness, that is a sign of water contamination. A change in the original color of the motor oil could also indicate its instability."
 
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