clutch problem

[MATTT]

got the car running and the clutch arm was partially seized

been spraying it with oil for the last few weeks and pumping the clutch everytime im down there working on it, its loosened up a lot

still a bit heavy but ive driven the car backwards and forwards and the clutch is slipping enough so you pull the handbrake up really hard and it will sit on the spot in 1st with the clutch released and the engine wont stall

what the chances of it being the arm still stuck? ive read the adjustment on the haynes manual does this cause this

or gearbox out ive got a new clutch here if needed though


its a 50k gen mileage but i cant see any paperwork for ever having a new one fitted

 

[malcolm]

Does the clutch operate very close to the bottom of pedal travel? Or the top? Or maybe right in the middle where it should?

Haven't you got a GTL with rear wheel handbrake? Presume it's not the LH front wheel spinning.

 

[MATTT]

cant say for certain where the bite point is not actually driven it or taken much notice
its def not that low down a bite point,i will check that,i guess high up means worn ?
its a GTL with rear handbrake,which is strong enought to hold the car stationary with the clutch completely released in gear.When i 1st tried this you could hear the rusty flywheel slipping
ive almost decided its the clutch but after reading up on the clutch adjustment in the Haynes book today i was just wondering before i have to strip it
ive planned ahead a bit and bought a complete clutch already,just its not looking a 5 min job to get the gearbox out esp in this weather!

 

[MATTT]

took the gearbox out ocver the last few evenings,had problems with a bolt seized into the bellhousing by the starter motor and couldnt get the box out without removing the steering rack
not a 5 minute job! or even 8 hours at this rate which is how long its meant to take !

found the clutch arm was seized at the end point which you cant get to and the nearest end where the arm is as well even though id sprayed this end with penetrating oil

i think the clutch was probably ok but ive fitted the new one anyhow
and the box is back in,just got to connect all the driveshafts and lots of other bits and pieces and replace the discs
the clutch is so light now it was worth it

 

[mr-reno-139]

well done MATTT ,
meant to ring you back after your SOS phone call but have broken phone screen again
so no call history on phone
did you make note of how the rack shims came out as they are calibrated ?
and did you manage to bend the exhaust flange when you put box back in
that was my favourite faux pas

be easy next time (though think 2and half hours was my record time ? but i was young and fit then )

going to be ready for the run then mattt ?

 

[MATTT]

hiya
no probs
it was the bolt seized that got me stuck for a while
exhaust is back on no probs
shims??
i just unbolted the rubber joint and a single nut and bolt each side i didnt notice any shims?
yikes

 

[mr-reno-139]

doesnt Mr Haynes mention them ?

dont worry too much they often stay stuck to rack where the ally casing corrodes and is much nicer than having them fall on the floor
it is important to get bolt and washer order correct though as 2 different size washers and will not stay tight if wrong

just the bumpers to fit now and it will be ready then mattt ?

you are beating me ,my yellow 4s been at my work for a week and still no progress

 

[MATTT]

just the bumpers? lol i wish

bumpers
paint the wheels,fit tyres
front brakes
repair small hole on top of inner wing
front wings
repair dent on rear wing
find a rear fog light
painting
phew!
might get it motd before i paint it though

i think the washers are stuck on the rack luckily.
bolts go through with a washer on the top i seem to remember,i never read the haynes book so i didnt take much notice of the rack so luckily the washers are corroded on