Ducellier regulator problem_smoke-dry

[Grenuj]

Hi everybody,
my R4 is from 1982 year and was factory fitted with dynamo + regulator box. Later I replaced alternator (Iskra - have regulator fitted inside them).
The old R box remained connected to the fuses, and it began to buzzing and smoke (I took it off for painting the engine cover).
When I disconnect it, the alternator charges the battery properly (measured by unimer and the scale on the dash works as well).
What should I do, can the old R box be removed?
P.S. I'm worried it'll catch fire..

 

[angel]

As long as you have a regulator built in the alternator, the separate regulator is redundant, you should had disconnected it when you fitted the replacement alternator.

 

[Grenuj]

but the plus pole is connected to the fuse box??
btw, shit situation, I opened it:

 

[André4Renaults]

OUCH! That looks nasty! If the alternator has a regulator fitted to it there is no need for an external regulator and the lead that runs from the battery to the regulator, via the starter motor should be directly joined to the lead running to the rest of the car's electrical system. When connected in this way the alternator and battery are wired in parallel and both can power the car. Most of the time the energy will be provided by the alternator, even on tick-over, but when starting or when the engine of not running the battery will act as a back-up.

 

[Grenuj]

@Andrew4Renaults , tnx.. I don't know how to eliminate old R box.. how to connect the 2 remaining cables?
here is a picture that explains it better...

 

[angel]

The EXC terminal is not now needed, it's internal on your new alternator. If the cable is still in the wiring harness, its other end should be at the alternator end of the harness, and not connected anywhere, too.
The positive feed from the fuse box is not needed, too, you should have provided a switched positive feed on the new alternator, for the field circuit.
In short, take the old box of the car!

 

[Grenuj]

The EXC terminal is not now needed, it's internal on your new alternator. If the cable is still in the wiring harness, its other end should be at the alternator end of the harness, and not connected anywhere, too

I'm worried about that...
EX = excitement
body mount = the mass (-)
and the + battery terminal
tnx a lot..

 

[Grenuj]

If the cable is still in the wiring harness

Yes, it still in cable harness and it's connected on EX/EXC/DF terminal.

 

[Grenuj]

@angel , bottom line: these two cables are not used anymore?
hanging under the hood..

 

[angel]

Exactly. Just make sure the end of EXC cable towards alternator is not connected anywhere. The cable coming from the fuse box should be disconnected at this end, too, better remove it completely.

Can you post a photo of how you connected the new alternator?

 

[Grenuj]

tomorrow I'll try to find, using multimeter, the other end of the EX cable..

 

[Grenuj]

Just make sure the end of EXC cable towards alternator is not connected anywhere

it is connected to a regler of alternator... I'm sending a video, sorry, it's not on ENG.
https://we.tl/t-zRV9UGi6jz

 

[angel]

Ok, I see now. This screw is not a terminal, you were earthing the field output of the control box, hence the buzzing etc.
This looks like an alternator working on the Bosch principle and has two terminals, one stud and nut usually marked B+ and a spade one(DF).
The B+ should be connected directly to battery +. The original alternator had also a second cable connected on the B+ (usually yellow) that goes to light switch, make sure it's actually this cable and connect it to either this terminal or directly to battery + , whatever suits you better.
The field coils are excited through the charge warning lamp, but as you don't have one, you have to fit one. Its bulb holder must be of the 2 terminal type. Run a cable from the switched output of the ignition switch to one terminal of the warning light and another from the other terminal to the DF alternator terminal and you are done.
Take off any other cable that is not used, as well as the old control box.

Now the system should work as follows: with ignition ON and engine not running, charging lamp should be on. With engine running, lamp should go off and you should have 13.5-14V across battery terminals. Hope this helps you.

 

[Grenuj]

The field coils are excited through the charge warning lamp, but as you don't have one, you have to fit one.

I have.. bulb for excitement in picture:

 

[angel]

So you have to remove the EXC cable and you are fine!
No problem at all having the warning lamp in the engine comparment, but since you must have it anyway, why not put it on the dashboard to warn you, too?
(If I were you, I would use the heated screen warning light as charge warning, instead of drilling the facia panel).

 

[Grenuj]

So you have to remove the EXC cable and you are fine!

this is encouraging.. tnx for effort!

I would use the heated screen warning light

but I have rear defroster I put a trunk door from newer GTL.. but I did not activate warning light on dash.
I've been planning for quite some time to put the alternator light inside..
here's a picture of my dash..

 

[Grenuj]

I've been planning for quite some time to put the alternator light inside.

sooner or later... I prepared 10mm hole in dash and I bought led indicator light and replaced T4W bulb, but then the led light doesn't go off & alternator won't charge the battery.
In the wiring I found electronic component, diode or resistor, I don't know. Is it necessary?
Led is working, I tested it when they were together in the wiring harness. Then system works fine.

 

[angel]

It will not work with an LED lamp, these systems need a filament bulb to allow the excitation current to pass through it.
It may work by keeping your existing "warning" lamp in the engine compartment and connecting the LED lamp in parallel, red terminal to wire coming from the car (switched +).

 

[Grenuj]

thank you very much @angel ! I will push and filament bulb in the cabin...
Can I eliminate diode? Does that have an impact on system that conducts current in one direction?