- Thread starter Cornish4
- Start date
harbourseal
Renault R4 Lunatic
- Messages
- 1,045
- Location
- Breda The Netherlands
Some words for comfort are needed I think.
best take the whole axle off to get the new outer silentblock on. No need to remove the tank the bolts come out to the wheel well. But it makes life easier to remove the tank.
Lots of luck doing this job. If I had lived in the UK I would have rushed over to assist you.
best take the whole axle off to get the new outer silentblock on. No need to remove the tank the bolts come out to the wheel well. But it makes life easier to remove the tank.
Lots of luck doing this job. If I had lived in the UK I would have rushed over to assist you.
Cornish4
Le Dazzleur
- Messages
- 1,812
- Location
- Falmouth
Hello harbourseal, thank you for your kind advice, but I've managed to avoid removing the whole axle, and the fuel tank. When I cut what was left of the old bearing housing off I lost it's position on the swinging arm, and it was going to be difficult to align the new one. Luckily my good friend Derek Flavell of Renospeed came to my rescue and offered me a replacement arm complete with a bearing and housing in very good condition, so it just fits straight on after I've tidied up the chassis where it bolts on. I know you would have come
around to assist and share a few beers if you were able. Thank you.
I'll post some update photos in due course. Cheers Brian.
around to assist and share a few beers if you were able. Thank you.
I'll post some update photos in due course. Cheers Brian.
Cornish4
Le Dazzleur
- Messages
- 1,812
- Location
- Falmouth
Well, I'm happy to report that Genevieve passed her MOT test yesterday with flying colours. Everything went back on fairly easily, although the arm did put up a bit of a fight, but once one bolt was in, it was plain sailing. I had the extra weight of the torsion bar to contend with as my garage is very small, so fitting the bar after the arm was on was not an option. Resetting the ride height was pretty straightforward. I've just the tracking to do, although I don't think it's far out, and we are there. We are off to a car show tomorrow to celebrate. Happy days 
Cornish4
Le Dazzleur
- Messages
- 1,812
- Location
- Falmouth
Hello folks, here's an update on attempting to adjust the rear tracking. So ok, the left side which I recently worked on is probably easy to adjust, but the right side outer bearing housing, which I think has never been replaced is a different matter. I managed to undo two of the three bolts, but the top forward bolt is very stubborn. It's the one threaded along it's entire length, so I expect it's rusted solid. During this work I disturbed the fuel line which runs along the outer chassis rail, it started dripping, and when I investigated it snapped off, rusted right through where the protective sleeve starts. Misnamed, as this is where water settles, and starts the process.
So I've replaced the fuel pipe, all the flexi hoses, front and back, and of course took the tank out and gave it and the adjacent underbody a coat or two of paint. The brake line which runs alongside the fuel pipe was also looking a bit dodgy, so I replaced that also. I've still not adjusted the rear tracking, but I have a timely warning for you all, check your fuel pipe, as I'm informed by Derek of Renospeed, that this is a common fault, and in different circumstances could end very badly. You have been warned
So I've replaced the fuel pipe, all the flexi hoses, front and back, and of course took the tank out and gave it and the adjacent underbody a coat or two of paint. The brake line which runs alongside the fuel pipe was also looking a bit dodgy, so I replaced that also. I've still not adjusted the rear tracking, but I have a timely warning for you all, check your fuel pipe, as I'm informed by Derek of Renospeed, that this is a common fault, and in different circumstances could end very badly. You have been warned