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Front Brake Hose for 1128

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WILLIAM.A

Enthusiast
Messages
40
Location
OXFORDSHIRE UK
Hi Everyone,
I have fitted new hoses sourced from AUTODOC using the correct Renault part number. They look far too tight and could do with being maybe 50mm longer. AUTODOC describe them as “430 mm”. Can anyone tell me the correct length?
 
I've just had a look at a caliper and hose removed from an R1128 - the hose is just over 400mm long, not including the threaded parts of the union.
Could you post a photo of your hose/caliper set-up?
 
Hi Andy,
The front wheels are in the normal driving position. I have tried to measure the length of the hose and appears that they are 430mm total length. It is the chassis bracket end that looks uncomfortable.
 
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I don't know whether this helps at all, but here's a shot of the N/S hose in my F6:
20250924_142413.jpg
 
Andy McGhee said:
I don't know whether this helps at all, but here's a shot of the N/S hose in my F6:
View attachment 35826
Click to expand...
Thanks Andy,
I have found that there is an alternative hose which is 502mm long. P/N 7701308799. I shall try them. My present fitting looks a tiny bit tighter than your F6.
I have the parts catalogue which you sent me. Does anyone have a decode of the symbology attached to the part number listings? I get some of it. Others though, maybe obvious to French natives, but not to me
 
WILLIAM.A said:
At a guess, could it be the difference due to Bendix or Girling callipers?
Click to expand...
All the GTLs/F6s I've had have had Bendix calipers.
The PR900 parts book gives two different lengths for front hoses - 480 and 405, but doesn't give any more info. I'm sure someone on here will have a car/van with Girling calipers.
 
Don't forget the r1128 was offered in drum brake form in 1980 all drum brake versions had longer hoses
Which is why they list two different lengths these should be the same as the r1123 which all have drum brakes once you have got disc brakes you should have a shorter flexible hose obviously aftermarket ones can vary as some manufacturers measure the length from a different point
 
I just fitted the 502mm hose. Shown in the right. It is a much more comfortable path than the 430mm on the left. It remains an easy path in full steering lock. An ideal would be around the 480mm mark
 
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I am no further forward with getting the camber angles to get anywhere near similar.
2.1 deg +ve on the RHS and 0.4 deg +ve on the LHS at the moment
 
The body is not on yet but they should be fairly close to each other
Maybe this is as good as it gets?
 
Also, the front torsion bars are not equally tensioned yet. Now that I have everything assembled, the proper tension relief tool would be the safest thing g to use. Does anyone have one that I could borrow or hire?
 
The camber angles can be corrected by putting shims between the suspension uprights and the chassis, at the top or bottom bolts. But first of all the car must be at the correct ride height, equal on both sides.
 
Hi Angel,
I have done what I can to get the datums right.
The tyres are resting on an horizontal surface. I adjusted the pressures to get the wheel rim heights from the floor the same and weighted down the high point of the chassis to get it horizontal. I set my angle measuring device to zero using the chassis as a reference.
What I am unable to do is set the overall ride height to the correct value for the moment.
My idea was to get the cambers equal at the top end of the reference angle of +1.5 degrees.
I have got 2.8 mm of shim now at the top of one side and the bottom of the other in the places you suggest.
My next move is to load the chassis with more weight and measure how much ride height affects the cambers angle. My initial guessing is that not very much. We shall see…
 
When suspension is compressed, camber becomes more negative and vice versa.
I suppose you are checking camber at each wheel when it's parallel to chassis side member. With such a high caster angle, slight toe in / out alters camber significantly.
If you have to check camber now before the body goes on, best way is to release tension on torsion bars and set car to static height with a jack.
 
WILLIAM.A said:
Also, the front torsion bars are not equally tensioned yet. Now that I have everything assembled, the proper tension relief tool would be the safest thing g to use. Does anyone have one that I could borrow or hire?
Click to expand...
I don't have the complete tool, but have got this - you're welcome to borrow it if it's any use:
1760184337821.jpeg
 
Don't forget that the car height at the drivers side always is a bit higher, when you look at the front the car isn't exactly horizontal.
The car becomes horizontal at the front when the driver sit in it. That's the Regie Nationale des usines Renault R4 factory setting.
 
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