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measuring dimensions OOPS! Forgot to do that!! can anyone help?

Minty

Enthusiast
Messages
77
Location
France
#1
Help! Forgot to measure the dimensions on Minty before taking off the back axel! Now trying to weld on new demi longerons and not sure if we've got it right as everything is so destroyed by rust! Any one out there have measurements for back axel to chassis and how it should be? Are both sides the same or are they different?
Thanks if you can give us any help.
 

Minty

Enthusiast
Messages
77
Location
France
#2
Hi Minty again, OOps, didn't really forget to do it, just that the whole thing fell apart as it was rusted out and held together with crazy foam!!! My lovely husband is struggling to get to grips with it and wants to know the measurement off: from the outside of the rear chassis arm to inside of main chassis axel mount (called longeron in french)?!
 

JdeW

Enthusiast
Messages
488
Location
Laarbeek The Netherlands
#3
Both sides at the rear are not the same, there is a large picture with the chassis dimensions here https://www.renault4.co.uk/chassis-jig-dimensions.htm at the bottom of the page.
The foam is AF factory a real Renault feature. Nobody knows why it's applied, but it absorbs the water vapor and then it rusts from the inside out :D and there are lots of other spots and places where the R4 rusts from the inside out. When there is 1 spot there will be many others :((murphy's law The Law of Conservation of Misery)
 

reidalpine

Enthusiast
Messages
1,461
#4
Just my 5 cents worth of things you never realized you didn't have to know.re post over (JdeW) Scania used the same "builders-expanding foam"
in their much heavier frames,this was considered the cat's whiskers at the time as no one had thought through the long-term damage and so they rusted too.. Best way to remove foam is using squirt-bottle filled with acetone which makes it go gooey and drip out if there's a hole or opening. Keep on squirting and let work,then use (Thin-stuff Only!) tufcote/dinitrol/etc they sell a long lance w.4 nozzles (£6) which gives a good spread inside profiles. I renew it once a year to keep it from drying out-so far All good! Hope you get your 4 up and runneng soon! -R.
 

JdeW

Enthusiast
Messages
488
Location
Laarbeek The Netherlands
#5
...Best way to remove foam is using squirt-bottle filled with acetone which makes it go gooey and drip out if there's a hole or opening. Keep on squirting and let work,then use (Thin-stuff Only!) tufcote/dinitrol/etc they sell a long lance w.4 nozzles (£6) which gives a good spread inside profiles. I renew it once a year to keep it from drying out-so far All good! Hope you get your 4 up and runneng soon! -R.
Best way to me is, get the angle grinder, cut away the rusty bits and parts, weld new steel, remove all surface rust, use good surface protection for all the steel such as zinc-epoxy primer and Brantho Korrux (3 in1) for the chassis and use Mike Sander's grease for the inside of all beams and cavities. :D
 

Minty

Enthusiast
Messages
77
Location
France
#6
OK! That clears up that puzzle, thanks chaps. We thought the foam was a dodgy car dealer cover up! You live and learn. We have cut away all the offending foam as it was encased in rust, which had to go! Being replaced by new shiny parts, yeah! :)
 

Minty

Enthusiast
Messages
77
Location
France
#8
FYI : Have just printed off the link that JdeW pointed me to and when printed it is very readable, clear to see all dimensions. Thank you.:)
 
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