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New F6

Andy McGhee

Enthusiast
Messages
2,045
Location
Cheltenham
This is my new F6 - a lucky find. It's the higher 'sobreelevada' version with side windows ('Acristalada'). 1982, and only 62,000 miles from new.
It has the 688 7/91 engine with a low compression head.
Needless to say, I'm delighted with it!
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An update on the F6, which I've had for the best part of a year now.
When I first went to see the van, I could see that the ignition system needed attention and that the oil and filter needed changing. The seller (delightful) offered to get it serviced and have it put through a dummy MOT, so I sent him a pack of Femsa distributor bits, ignition leads, plugs and an oil filter, which the garage duly fitted. They rejected my plugs - the right ones, and when I first got the van I found that they'd replaced the 'original' plugs with identical long-reach ones. I found out from a Spanish forum that this was a common trick to raise the compression ratio (most F6s have a higher head which gives an 8.3:1 ratio - brilliant when 2-star fuel was available).
I replaced all the usual bits - drivebelts, window catches, fuel cap, brake pads, etc. The van has the original 2-part calipers that feature in most manuals, but which have an unfortunate habit of seizing together - I remember having to saw the piston part out of the calipers that came with an R5 GTL I once had! Valve clearances, plugs (L87Y) and an oil change, too. I also changed the driver's door lock as the original key didn't work.
One of the driveshafts needed replacing, along with a balljoint dust cover, a rack gaiter (I'd forgotten how hard on the fingers they can be...) and a track rod end.
I replaced the whole exhaust system with the side exit type that sits further in - just a matter of drilling a couple of holes for the bobbins. Luckily, as with most of the parts, I had a silencer and pipes in the garage.
The headlights were past their best, and both the adjusters were broken, so I changed these. I had the bowls from a French trip, and managed to find a brand-new pair of headlights for 5 Euros at a junk market in France a couple of years ago! Thanks to Malcolm for the excellent guide on how to convert LHD lights to UK use.
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The master cylinder had a slight weep, so I ordered a new one from Autodoc. The van has a type that I haven't seen before on R4s, although I gather that it was/is fitted to other Renaults.
The N/S rear tyre had been wearing on the outside edge, so I had to tweak the tracking. Once I'd undone the nuts and broken the 'seal' between the suspension mounting and the chassis, I used a ratchet strap around the rear wheels to adjust things. Thanks to Andrew (alewis) for this idea - learned here a few years ago!
I had a single 'bad roads' De Carbon front shock absorber, and managed to find another, so these, along with a pair of rears I had in the garage, have gone on the van - not that the ones I replaced were bad, but these have made a real difference.
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The ventilation flap below the windscreen had come apart on the inside, so I changed this - I've done this a couple of times before, but find it one of the hardest R4 jobs to do. All done now, and lots of 'Seek-a-leak' used around the windscreen rubber. The van had spent its life near Malaga, so I can't imagine water leaks were a problem...
One of the reasons the van was put through a dummy, rather than a 'real' MOT was that it didn't have a foglight. Luckily, I had a complete rear O/S light unit and lens. Unfortunately, the van (82) didn't have the wiring already fitted , but it was a relatively straightforward - and satisfying - job.
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A couple of the window catches on the sliding rear windows were missing. In pre-Internet days, this would probably have meant waiting until a trip to a Spanish scrapyard was possible. Amazingly, I was offered a couple immediately - many, many thanks to Ian (laxeian) on this forum for his kindness and generosity. Thanks too to David (db), who sent me three plastic wheelbrace holders!
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I fitted a NOS grille and tailgate badge. The rear door flap stay was missing, so I made one out of 6mm steel rod - a very quick, and again very satisfying job!
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It's been a great van so far - we took it over to Normandy in August, where it was very well received (especially on campsites and in supermarket car parks). The extra height of the Spanish vans makes getting 2 bikes and all the camping stuff in much easier.
Thanks to all on the forum for their invaluable advice and generous parts contributions - much appreciated!
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The original owner of my Spanish F6 had a reassuringly belt-and-braces approach to coolant temperature warnings - it has a sender/switch in the water pump which is wired to the dashboard light, and a temperature gauge wired to a sender - not the usual one - at the back of the head. I remember that all the vans I saw in Spain in the 80s and 90s had external gauges.
I recently had a problem with the dash light flickering/coming on, even though the external gauge showed that the coolant temperature was fine. Eventually the light just stayed on, so I changed the sender (M18; washer M18x1.5) in the pump - the part number is Intermotor 53640.

Dash mounted external gauge:
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Head sensor to dash gauge:
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New pump sensor/switch (Intermotor 53640)
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The starter motor on the van was sometimes turning the engine slowly, even though the battery is new(ish), so I decided to replace it - much easier at home than on a campsite! It's the first time I've done one on a LHD R4; I decided to remove the manifold to do it - once the steering column's disconnected from the rack, it's straightforward enough, provided you have the right spanners (an angled 13mm obstruction spanner makes it much easier, as well as a tubular 13mm. The right Allen key plus extension is indispensable for the lower two hex nuts). I can only admire those of you who've changed the starter motor on a LHD without removing the manifold - definitely a 'third eye' job!
Old motor:
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The starter's a Bosch - luckily, I had an identical NOS one in the garage:
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This is the old starter - by the look of it, it could well be the original!
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Things seem a lot better now!
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A lot of slow moves, finger gimnastics, Tetris game knowledge and patience is needed to change starter with manifold on engine.
Ask me how i know

Good job, Andy!
 
It is not that hard if you swing the steering column out of the way and remove the engine mounting bridge piece and clutch cable. It takes me about half an hour to remove.
 
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