New Floor in today

[Cyprus Andy]

Don't expect that "dead stop" from a drum-braked R4

A remote servo like the Lockheed one will make a great difference in feel, especially if you are used in modern cars. Brakes will still be prone to fading, though.

Hi Angel, thanks again for the help with the window channels They arrived safely today and I will have them fitted tonight when it cools down enough to get some work done.....

 

[Cyprus Andy]

Fuel tank had to come out as the top fuel pipe was split and leaking easy enough job but I hate working on my back
While it was out I thought I might as well clean and paint it up !

 

[Cyprus Andy]

back home and ready for the MOT ? we will see !

 

[Cyprus Andy]

Just failed the MOT on the near side top ball joint Off to Limassol tomorrow in the hopes of finding one !
No sign of a ball joint on the island even though everyone was very helpfull and telephoned around for me so back up the mountain and onto ebay.......ordered from Germany and just hope it gets here in time to re- mot this month.

 

[Cyprus Andy]

A nice bit of tidying up done as the new clips arrived today to hold the jack handle and the bonnet support from
R-Quatrel.nl ( www.r-quatre.nl )...The old one's had snapped with getting too hot they had become brittle.
Great people and very helpful at that web site for R4's, it is in Dutch but with a bit of trial and error you can find the parts you need and phone the order in with the part number ( they speak English )

 

[Cyprus Andy]

Great got the MOT today, a long wait for the ball joint from Germany though but it came in time.
Going to have to play with the carb a bit as the MOT guy adjusted it for the emissions and its not got the same pull on hills anymore. Still thats it MOT'd for the next 2 years so lots of time to sort the little things out

 

[petak]

Happy news.

Now you can finally enjoy driving R4

 

[Cyprus Andy]

Well I got her registered with FIVA today so she is officially an antique and the certificate lasts 10 years and is valid worldwide, so I hope it comes in useful if I can get a Certificate of Conformity and get her to France one day ..........soon I hope

 

[Cyprus Andy]

Well that's a good 40 min's work done ! Both top steering arm's replaced in 40 mins outside in 34C heat !....The old magic is still there . I'v got to say some of the spanners were a bit hot when I forgot to put them under the car :eek: in the shade. Still can't believe it passed its MOT with these on !

 

[Cyprus Andy]

Dashboard out this morning and the "new ish" speedo head and cable installed....but as usuall one job leads to another and the wiper switch has fallen into 100's of pieces so in search of one if anybody can help out.
Fitted the Oil gauge and Temp gauge while the dash was out so not too bad..3 steps forward and only 1 step back haha

 

[petak]

I must say that those gauges do look nice there on dash board!
I would like to put two gauges as well (RPM and water temp) but would like to disguise them somehow so that they do not look "to modern" in cockpit.

Unfortunately do not have switches for early model so can not help you with that.
But you are right, Franzose, and melun do have big shipping prices.

 

[Cyprus Andy]

I must say that those gauges do look nice there on dash board!
I would like to put two gauges as well (RPM and water temp) but would like to disguise them somehow so that they do not look "to modern" in cockpit.

Unfortunately do not have switches for early model so can not help you with that.
But you are right, Franzose, and melun do have big shipping prices.

It is quite easy to convert to a Temp Gauge, you need an adapter for where the sender originally is as it is a large thread size. Get an adapter/ reducer M18x 1.5 ( the size thread in the block) to an 1/8 NPT ( IN THE PIC BELOW) which is the most common size sender unit thread size ( M18 is the outside tread for the block and 1/8 NPT is the inside thread to take a normal temp sender for a gauge )
Then run a wire from it to the back of the temp gauge....the other side of the gauge will need a positive feed but make sure you take the power from the back of the speedo from the voltage stabilizer. or you can fit a separate one ....
You don't need to fit a gauge in the dash as I did ....you can put a small "pod" under the dashboard if you prefer but I wanted to be able to see the temp ALL THE TIME without having to look for it elsewhere as for a rev counter I have noooooooo ideao_O

 

[petak]

Thank you very much for quick installation instructions!

 

[Azazello]

the other side of the gauge will need a positive feed but make sure you take the power from the back of the speedo from the voltage stabilizer. or you can fit a separate one ....

Please explain me... I linked my temp gauge directly to the fuse box... or the stereo cables, I do not remember. Something that goes down once the key is out.
Did I do some error? Since I had to reply the work on the ancient one I would like to know...

 

[Cornish4]

Hi there. There are a couple of firms I've used that can supply instrument gauges including rev counters, these are Holdon Vintage and Classic parts, not to be confused with Holdon Motors of Australia, and Europa Car Accessaries. Both do a range of Durite gauges. I fitted a rev counter (52mm diameter) in a pod just to the right of the 4s instrument panel, (RHD car), and it works well looks good and was very easy to fit and wire up. Hope this info is of some use.

Regards Brian.

 

[Cyprus Andy]

Please explain me... I linked my temp gauge directly to the fuse box... or the stereo cables, I do not remember. Something that goes down once the key is out.
Did I do some error? Since I had to reply the work on the ancient one I would like to know...

If you wire up to a fuse box or a live from the ignition your reading will vary and not be the true temperature as the voltage rises and falls depending on if your driving or standing still .......

This is an easy cheap thing to fix with a Semiconductor Voltage Stabilizer like the photo.....

This has one wire to an earth, one wire to a live (fused from the ignition ) and one wire to the clock or gauge.

It gives a stable 10v supply for accurate gauge readings and can be bought for about 10 euros and should be inbetween any gauge you fit in your car as an accessorie .

There will be a stabilizer on the rear of your instrument cluster on your car but if you do not want to remove it or if it is awkward to get to just fit one seperatly .[/quote]

 

[Cyprus Andy]

Just had this made up at the local hydraulic pipe shop in Limassol yesterday........It allows a "T" piece to be fitted remotely for an oil gauge and retains the oil warning light switch from the engine.
I found Vauxhall had the same size thread ( M14x1.5) to the block for the T piece but there was not enough room between the chassis to allow fitting it.
The banjo fitting to the block allows the T piece to be fitted to the bulkhead and from there you can attach the oil pressure pipe to the gauge and attach the wire for the warning light.
Pirtek in the UK can offer the same services for making pipes up as I once fitted a Transit 2.5 DI engine in a Jag and needed pipes for the power steering to match up from Jag rack to Transit Pump.....simples

 

[petak]

Hi Cyprus Andy!

I have wondering in FAE catalogue for some things for my R4, and stumbled on wiper switch for early R4.
So I am posting you here part of FAE catalog with those switches so you can see which is right for you!

Hope it is of help!

 

[Cyprus Andy]

Another job off the list.................managed to fit the remote pipe to the block for the oil gauge and changed the oil and filter.......What a terrible job getting to the oil filter and the oil pressure switch ! It took almost 3 hours as I just could not get my hands into the spaces to remove the oil filter and there is even less room trying to get the oil pressure switch out.........Worth it though when I saw the oil pressure at 50PSI on tickover with some nice thick 20/50 in there

 

[Cyprus Andy]

Well new plugs and points in and set the carb up today and she is running fine.......
I had to screw the idle jet right in, and then out 4 1/2 turns to get the mixture right with a nice blue spark on the gunson plug auto tune up thing !
Anything before this and the fuel was burning orange but a blue burn at 4 1/2 turns out seems to have cured the lumpy tickover and she is pulling well now.
Ready for the 3 vintage rally's this month..........pix to follow !