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R5engine/gearbox for F4 What-fits-What??

Good to hear Roffen is alive.

Does your clutch cable bracket look like this? I don't know the cable routing on LHD cars, but I would have thought the bracket would be the same.
 
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Hi Malcolm! No, first the Lever is hanging right down and to actuate it it is pulled backwards (towards firewall) Bracket on this one has pt.# 77 00 660 168.Is it possible to turn this lever so it looks like on your picture Malcolm?(guess it involves splitting the bellhousing again if at all poss?)but then I would have to make a bracket like your too...
Tried ordering another cable today.but turned out to be wrong Again!! Fantastic service though-Ordered it at 14:00 and shop had it 17:00 Now if they could get the correct one it would have been Amazing.. I will put on my thinking-cap tonight as I would like to take Roffen for a nice spin tomorrow.. -R.
ADDENDUM. is the bracket for the wire itself fastened in a round hose WRONG! Should read HOLE! at front-end of motormount Malcolm? In case I have the hole..
 
Ahh go on - post a photo. I thought you had already won a camera in one of Ian's competitions.

But then I also thought all Renault 5 clutch levers had a similar orientation to the one on my photo, but then I've only seen RHD R5s, and the position wouldn't be handy for getting around an exhaust manifold. Though the gearbox on the LHD R4 that I dismantled without taking photos is the same as the RHD version.

I'll defer to the LHD R5 owners on this one, but yours sounds funny. Could try some experiments with gearboxes knocking around here if you like.

If yours is funny but the clutch works there's no reason why you couldn't fabricate a bracket to hold the clutch cable assuming one could be found of the correct length.
 
I DO have a camera ,but I also have a son and He's keen on taking pixes..camera I won was definately not a digital one.Not sure they even makes films for these anymore..
I Will however post pixes soon as i can lay hands on son and Roffen is safely home...
clutch lever looks Exactly as your but hangs vertical and moves
from 06:00 to 04:00 when actuated so wire needs to go 20 degrees upwards/backwards then a crazy angle straight up to clear either in front or aft of motorbracket and into firewall to pedal..
Lever feels soft and even but how the heck am I going to line up the wire??
Only idea as of right now is to make a nice even S-shape out of some sort of tubing (tentpole??) trod the whole shabang through it and fill with Danish butter.....seriously;Problem is to get the wire to work smoothly as it will have some very sharp bends to it..
experimets gets 4x4 cheers from me Malcolm! -R.
 
have now made-up the S-shaped tube mentioned-If I can get the complete wire through it and it reaches from pedal to lever I could be ok.but we're talking millimeters here!
Also made up another wire which is longer,not possible to make adjuster at end of it so will try 'suspending' complete wire so it will be kept taught... These will be make-do solutions till I can find out how it's actually supposed to look like -R.
 
Just in the door after having spent all day driving aimlessly around grinning from ear to ear! temporarely fixed snag with clutchwire this morning,but will look around for proper one..
All seems to be working fine-Have to check carb (32mmWeber) as
acc-pump seems to let too little petrol through Just as i hit the acc.
If I pull out the choke a little for a few seconds there is no hesitation at all-It just needs it for acc.after that I can push it in.
This R5motor is definately much quieter running than the 850cc.Had wheels aligned and properly set up so drives nice and straight..
Haven't driven Roffen hard or fast as I need to let the motor 'run in' slowly-remember it has been standing still for more than 10yrs! Imidiately I can tell that it is noticeably stronger and 3rd gear seems endless!!!! -No leaks to be seen.El.fan cuts in as should.Clutch is silk-smooth Nice low and deeper exhaust-sound. Weather is fine and the Whole world seems to Love me right now c",)

-Must take this opportunity to Thank all the guys on here that has assisted with good advise/tips and/or parts for my Roffmobile-project.. You all know who you are!!!

***Thanx Much guys-doubt if I could have pulled it off without*** -R.
 
Well done! Must make quite a difference to driveability having the gigger engine and higher gearing.

Could be the vacuum advance that causes the hesitation too - does it work if you suck through it?
 
..Talking of Cameras Reida..

..I do still have some old films for that magnificent Leica Camera that you won....................but where is my present from Norwayland - You know a little Quid pro quo what ever that means?

What about a pair of Raindear skin traditional Norwegian shorts - Waist 36 INCHES x short, to thank me for having a Dad that enabled you to have your own traditional Raindear skin shorts rather than Lederhosen?
 
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It certainly does! -little too dark to check it out,but you might be right Malcolm! Is is easy to see if it works as it should? Rubberends
to carb And wacumclock probably dried out a bit so might be a leak there I guess-Will have a clodser look tomorrow..
-Now in a minute I will open a NewC'stle Brown and just Enjoy life!
 
ian-are you looking for the Original Traditional Reindeer Shorts-The
ones that had the antlers on the Inside?
-I am Very happy your dad saved me from wearing lederhosen! -R.
 
Roffen the Rapid Rides Again

Congratulations Reidar :hug: sweet success Marra! ;):p:p
 
Well done! Must make quite a difference to driveability having the gigger engine and higher gearing.

Could be the vacuum advance that causes the hesitation too - does it work if you suck through it?

Could well be you're right Malcolm! Ther is definately movement in the dizzy when I suck but I can't hold the vacum so suspect wacumclock to be leaking.Have changed rubber-tubes each end plastic-line isn't leaking..
Some rust where the arm and cup-part comes from vacumclock
Will see if I can use from other distr.Also Ducellier but other number-Who's the idiot that decided to put the type-id. on the Rearside of them??
Clock Looks exactly like and is new.When I suck on it I can hold wacum so must be ok.
There's a real small lock-pin holding the advance'wheel' in there Am I right in thinking I need to remove lock-pin lift advance'wheel' as arm or lever coming from clock is connected under this adv.wheel?? Do I count teeths to get it right on new one?? When I changed this setting a tooth or two when I tried to clean it up a bit Roffen backfired with a nice flame coming out of airfilter to tell me he was not impressed with my effort. -R.
 
Have you checked the accelerator pump diaphragm as the cause of the hesitation?? I would bet that it's the problem. To work properly the twin choke carbs must be nice and clean on the inside, the diaphram has to be in very good condition, all the jets and drillings must be clear, the linkages that operate the second butterfly must be free to work and so on. If you remove the air filter and operate the accelerator you should expect an immediate flow of petrol being pumped into the venturi and this stops when the second butterfly opens.

Please concentrate on the carb before pulling the distributor apart.
 
HI Steve! The carb is not a twin choke as of now. It's the standard R1225 carb ie: Solex 32 SEIA Ren 702 -I have dismantled the wacumclock from Other Ducellier dizzy (R 287 D83)just to see how the sprung arm on it was attached to the small toothed advancewheel
Noted the position it was in..Looked exactly like the one on the R5gtl 1289cc motor but on closer inspection I can see this is smaller in diameter.This one is made -86 the other one -77 so am unsure if it's only a case of 'miniaturiasation'..It has no number or code on it.Neither has the other one-Which
makes me assume they are interchageable.. Or? This is of course only guesswork on my part. Do you know if the diapragm inside would be different/specific stronger diapragm etc. for type of distributor?
A little fussy to get off but using my best French it got out at last!
-I assume when I suck and hold the serrated or toothed'wheel' inside distr.advanced should stay advanced?
-On the R5 it slowly returns while on this one it stays advanced as long as I maintain suction...

I will chack the diaphragm on the carb right away! -R.
 
Have you checked the accelerator pump diaphragm as the cause of the hesitation?? I would bet that it's the problem. To work properly the twin choke carbs must be nice and clean on the inside, the diaphram has to be in very good condition, all the jets and drillings must be clear, the linkages that operate the second butterfly must be free to work and so on. If you remove the air filter and operate the accelerator you should expect an immediate flow of petrol being pumped into the venturi and this stops when the second butterfly opens.

Please concentrate on the carb before pulling the distributor apart.

just checked acc.pump diaphragm Looks fine and results in nice squirt of petrol when pushed in... -R
 
Nice to hear that Roffen is back on the road and stronger! Enjoy him as much as you can!

Just a thought about the hesitation. Are the progression drillings clear? They are some 1-3 holes on the carb body, just behind of the butterfly edge, and are progressively uncovered as the butterfly is opened.
 
Hi angel -Thanx for tip! Haven't checked them -I gather they are downward-pointing so not easy to check from top-will have a look-see tomorrow.
-Roffen feels a lot stronger already so am exited to see full potential after I have solved this problem-hopefully Soon!
Have a nice evening in Athens angel! -R.
 
Guys!!!
PROBLEM SOLVED...ROFFEN GOES LIKE A SCALDED RAT!!!!!

Thanx to all of you for all tips and good advice..
-Must admit that the actual problem wasn't high up on my probability-list
It turned out Roffen was starved for fuel. I would have thought this would manifest itself in higher than normal temp in both motor And exhaustsystem..but it didn't.
Frontfender was not above normal temp to the touch...
Roffen started with no use of choke and purred So nicely it was like music!

Wanna know what it was?????

-I changed the Idling jet (#44) for 2steps higher (#46) and ZHASAAAAAAM!! -All Problemos solved!!
not a hint of hesitation at all any more-Amazing.

-I wouldn't have guessed the ruddy Idling jet played any significant role at higher revs at all...

Ok guys-I'm off again Still letting Roffen get used to new life in the fast-lane...
-R.
 
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