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Rear chassis rust advice

Jimthevan

Enthusiast
Messages
98
Location
cornwall
Hi all I'm new here and just purchased my first R4 - this is the condition of the rear chassis outer - how bad do you think it is? is it worth body off or just patching up from the outer?

Any experience and advice muchly appreciated cheers J2017-10-06 11.06.24.jpg im

also floor pan needs a bit of love patch or repair panel?

2017-10-06 11.02.49.jpg
 
In most cases it is not possible to see the true extent of the rust without removing the body.you need to examin the rear bush area as per your picture but also the rear legs and front chassis.Removing the body is not so difficult and you will get much better repairs.
 
In most cases it is not possible to see the true extent of the rust without removing the body.you need to examin the rear bush area as per your picture but also the rear legs and front chassis.Removing the body is not so difficult and you will get much better repairs.
many thanks for your prompt reply - as i suspected - the car is very usable so just need to justify taking the whole body off and it becoming a project. The other areas of the chassis on initial inspection look pretty good...2017-10-06 11.03.38.jpg2017-10-06 11.03.06.jpg 2017-10-06 11.03.31.jpg 2017-10-06 11.06.34.jpg 2017-10-06 11.02.45.jpg 2017-10-06 11.02.54.jpg
 
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agreed - I think a good wire brush down and protection would do the job nicely for now - many thanks for your input - now the grubby bit begins! : )
 
It's good to see more people re-discover the R4 fun so welcome.
Advise on the rust.... there is a lot of surface rust which is normally easy to cure as mojobaby explained.
But to me there are other signs that on the well known spots the rust must be severe as we all know that the R4 will rust from the inside out.
So in term you'll have to deal with this because to me it's allready a problem...
 
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Maybe this tekst may help (with thanks to Roberto http://renault4.weebly.com/belangrijk-bij-aankoop.html)

For a layman is a purchase of an R4 often difficult because you do not know what issues are important and what is yet to come for problems, and pictures I try to explain what you see and what you can encounter and do not forget to look at the bottom wedged under the pedals as holes here than are usually the front jacking points also affected, take a look at the attachment of the rear check all around the 12 mounting screws (6 left + 6 right) is here fresh kit installed, it is wise to look even better.
In all, the four can be repaired but it's nice if you already know what to expect when buying.
There are four types of fours for sale:

*The honest poor here you can clearly see what is bad is often not as expensive but a good base for restoration.
* The not fair bad in this car are the bad points smeared course is expensive and needs to be restored in the short term, often these are the cars where the buyer is disappointed to come off cost him where they had not counted on.
* Good these are not cheap, but you also have a good, there is something wrong but that is usually overlooked.
* The four competition, this is often not for sale or for money.

Watch as the engine is warm and your gas indicates that not all is too much blue smoke from the exhaust, it may indicate some oil consumption but do not have to be this very serious they may just oil indeed consume the engine is not made in the computer era, when the engine is idling must crankcase reasonable lie still when he shakes too much can mean that loss of compression in one or more cylinders, but it could be another cause may include contact points spark or adjustment is not good and that the carburettor.

The gearbox should go smoothly when it switch to turn back but the latter also has to do with the year of the first were not so smooth (synchronized), look no further if oil leakage under the engine gearbox oil has a different smell than engine oil.

The brakes are important look under any wheel or it leaks also check the brake distributor mounted against the left rear beam which is a cylinder where three or four brake lines come together, put your fingers on top and let someone hard braking here have a slight movement be felt, because it only has much work to do when the car is loaded, it distributes the braking may be that he is stuck, respect, not a very big safety problem but at the MOT he has to work.
Check the color of the brake fluid must clear (natural) are often forgot to renew it, the hygroscopic action of the brake fluid can later go down the brake cylinders and clutches are Often the engine, gearbox and brakes no insoluble problems, this is almost always easy to overcome, but there are wear items such as linking this can be checked by the 3rd gear trying to drive away when he is good he will turn and he can not usually slip when worn clutch pedal very high so he sits up in a good link you should be able to kick half without him does his work.

The photos on this site are extreme cases and have also seen that the problems can be solved, but it also indicates that a good R4 also is not cheap.

Many R4's are offered with a new MOT which is good but it does not mean that the car is really good, here are some examples of cars that several months after the MOT of the road are met, this is not a good thing, after all it is you and perhaps the safety of your children, I ask myself still wondering how this is possible!
Example 1 Example 2 Example 3
 
The well-known spots...

3117969.jpg


b. Rear wing edges, as seen here corrosion than the screen to be renewed and the mounting rim, putty ex. is meaningless, also look inside the car remove the rubber over the curves of the inner back panel, and the points of the fixing of the rear belts.







c. Edges of attachment for the screen when you open the hood you see three screws holding
the front panel is secured these edges may corrosion are very bad, cause sealed and never cleaned so that the wind could not do his job.



d. This is the front chassis, this is an important part here, is the front wheel suspension and steering system mounted on, there is a tube of left walk to the right at this height at the bottom are to be found often holes.



e. Styles of the rear structure where the tailgate closes below in the corners left both right are the styles welded with copper as this may corrode.



f. Front support beam, this beam provides adhesion of the gearbox is based here on the front chassis, here can prevent corrosion by road metal.



 
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g. The front jacking point left or right, these often very poor corrosion.














h. The rear jacking point also rotates the arm of the rear axle (zwingarm confirmation) here often more corrosion.














i. The rear beam at this portion is mounted to the rear axle by the double plate, which is used by the factory, moisture may come in between, and this also causes a great deal of corrosion. A mounted tow bar will cause more problems.















k.
This is the result of spillage when refilling the brake fluid, it affects everything.


 
Very important is the rust under the window rubbers on the picture below you can see that the rubber is located on the rust and difficult to detect so check all seals carefully, creates the rust by sand and dirt while driving underneath blows rubber and moving the sand acts as a sandpaper and will remove all the lacquer protection.
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At worst, it may so come out to see.





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It's natural repair but prevention is better.





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This is the swingarm to the rear wheels.
There are two types of steel, the first and the last type
In between are made of cast iron they are always good.
The sheet is the weakest look good when they are not treated properly, they can look like in the picture, should certainly not welded to here it's a supporting part and a MOT car is rejected immediately. when it happened check the car extra because if this happened at this point there will be other places have been more wrong. It is to repair a complete rear axle must be installed, if the ash is removed, it is possible that you i encounter.


"Long after the price is forgotten, the quality is still remembered"
(fam. Cucci)
 
wow thank you for the excellent article JdeW- super detailed will have a good read and check the various areas against my car
 
Thanks Jim but I did merely the translation as the text is from Roberto in the attached URL. Source listing is important.
It's not to discourage you butt just to inform and learn as the other forum members here who took the courage and started restoring on their own as it should be.
There are lots of examples to follow in the projects section, succes.
Regards, Joop
 
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