Roadworthy Problems

[mojobaby]

Last week I took my car (GTL),Genevieve, for my 2 year roadworthy and of course I failed, which is usually the case.

Surprisingly enough, my emissions were only 3.50%, and thats probably because I turned out the mixture screw on the carb only one revolution in stead of my usual 2 and a half.

The left front tie rod has a yoke at the end which has something called a swivel bearing (according to Haynes) and the rubber inside is worn and has to be replaced.

Also the back brake flexible pipes have to be replaced as the ends have rusted.

My biggest concern is that there is play in the back left wheel. My first thought was that I would have to replace the wheel bearings, both inner and outer. If the bearing are worn, would they not be making a noise? I know that there is a castellated nut that is usually tightened by hand to take up any endplay. Perhaps this is the problem and solution
Any thoughts and advice please

 

[Q plate]

To be safe you could remove the rear hub and inspect the bearings for damage but assuming they're in good order you could just 'nip' the nut up a fraction. I've replaced mine recently along with all the Bushes/Brake pipes etc. Maybe check the amount of play in the Right Hand Rear Wheel to see what the Tester deems acceptable? I say that as I've always been happier with Taper bearings being a gnats chuff loose as opposed to over tight (not sure what the manual says) but I was taught to nip them up to make sure they're seated correctly then back them off to where they run freely with a tiny amount of play preferred over binding.

Regards AL

 

[mojobaby]

Thanks for your advice Q plate. The right hand rear wheel had a bit of play in it and to be honest it felt the same as the left wheel.

So I jacked the left wheel up, took off the grease cap, split pin and castellated nut and then found the wheel nut, which I tightened by 1/6th, There is now no movement at all and the wheel turns freely as well. So, all good, thanks for your help. Posted a few pics to show the procedure in case anyone needs to do this.

 

[Q plate]

Nice easy fix had a feeling you might find it no better or worse than the other side.

 

[JdeW]

Last week I took my car (GTL),Genevieve, for my 2 year roadworthy and of course I failed...

Well Dave, in my modest opinion you didn't fail (how could you) but you're R4 Genevieve did.
Maybe you failed in keeping Genevieve roadworthy but that's always an issue as our beloved R4's always need attention.
And when it comes to attention and maintenance you're a wizard as we all know.
Keep up the good work.

Best regards,
Joop

 

[mojobaby]

Thanks Joop, your comments are really appreciated.
Regarding maintenance, I tend to only fix things that need fixing. And before I do, I try to do a lot of research using the Haynes manual and of course getting advice from everyone on the forum.
Thats why I'm actually thankful that my car has to go for a roadworthy every 2 years and I don't mind if the examiner is strict. They draw your attention to a problem before it gets too bad
However, when Genevieve was failed because my drivers seat had a tear in the upholstery, I thought that was taking things a bit too far!

So now I have the new parts on order from Melun and when they arrive I'll keep you updated on the repairs.

 

[JdeW]

Yes, I remember that failed MOT due to a "tear in the upholstery"
Here in The Netherlands a R4 has also MOT every 2 years exept when the vehicle is 50 years old then never MOT again.

 

[mojobaby]

Today I started on the work that has to be done for my MOT.
The part that had to be replaced is called a swivel bearing (according to the Haynes manual). The part was really shot as you'll see in the photos. Thats why I don't ming having a roadworthy every 2 years-because they pick up on things that I don't see, and I can fix them before they get worse and potentially dangerous!

To get to the swivel bearing, I had to remove the tie rod first. Am I correct in saying that the tie rods purpose is for the camber of the wheel? There is an adjusting nut on the tie rod which I didn't touch as the tie rod came out quite easily once the bolts had been removed.

 

[Homegrown]

Have nothing to do with camber. It's a reaction rod that taking the forces introduced to the double wishbone suspension under acceleration and braking.

 

[mojobaby]

Good to know, thanks Homegrown

 

[angel]

Altering its length has an effect on castor angle.

 

[mojobaby]

Altering its length has an effect on castor angle.

I read in the Haynes manual that pre '69 cars have a 7 degree castor and post '69 have 13 degrees. I presume thats a positive castor like a bicycle front wheel. Thank goodness I didn't touch that adjusting nut. Thanks Angel