the key to chassis survival was given in the thread "Rebuilding my noddy"date 22/6/10-have a close look.There is a reference "the chassis had been filled with oil".Malcolm marvelled that it was so good wheras the body was poor.Well,the car was mine,& I put a limited quantity of waste engine oil ,using a small squeeze bottle,into each chassis side member,via a body bolt hole.This penetrates into the seams,where rust commences,& creeps upwards to some extent as well.obviously,I did the same to all crossmembers& rear chassis legs.I started doing this to my various Noddys in 1973(yes!)-the results have been fantastic!Start by closing up any rust holes& front subframe drainholes.Have a few containers handy for any small leaks(which-if any will only be slow)Use about one third litre for each side rail for a start.Run front of car up a couple of planks occassionally to get oil to run to rear.used oil best-creeps better!Renault 4 one of the easiest cars to protect in this way(ironically) 165000 hard miles on my car-no chassis rot!
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rusted-out chassis units-easily avoided
- Thread starter richard
- Start date
Oil in chassis
I knew a guy who did this with diesel oil on his Austin Farina, might have been a Cambridge?, he did it from new and I remember the car being perfect, no rust at all, however, in an R4 which is anything but new, what would happen if Mr MOT pokes a hole somewhere?, I should think it would be more or less impossible to weld without the car being consumed by flames?, or would the oil be past the liquid stage, no flamible vapours?. I am really thinking this is a great idea, but I'm also trying to look into the future.
I could run my TL all year round if I did this!.
Alan.
I knew a guy who did this with diesel oil on his Austin Farina, might have been a Cambridge?, he did it from new and I remember the car being perfect, no rust at all, however, in an R4 which is anything but new, what would happen if Mr MOT pokes a hole somewhere?, I should think it would be more or less impossible to weld without the car being consumed by flames?, or would the oil be past the liquid stage, no flamible vapours?. I am really thinking this is a great idea, but I'm also trying to look into the future.
I could run my TL all year round if I did this!.
Alan.
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The restoring Dutchman.
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But this is not a new thing right? You guys must have heard about Mike Sander grease? Or Owatrol? Basically the same thing. Mike Sander grease is a grease rather than oil though.
Using engine oil or diesel oil is just a cheaper way (though doesn't mean a worse way) of doing this right?
Using engine oil or diesel oil is just a cheaper way (though doesn't mean a worse way) of doing this right?
RUSTFREE R4 chassis unit
MOT man wont poke holes in chassis if youve checked it yourself first! waste oil best because it penetrates right into seams.remember box sections rot from inside outwards!Welding can be carried out in the future-have seen it done ,but should not be necessary!I have not had to do any since 1973,anyway!Keep any queries coming!
MOT man wont poke holes in chassis if youve checked it yourself first! waste oil best because it penetrates right into seams.remember box sections rot from inside outwards!Welding can be carried out in the future-have seen it done ,but should not be necessary!I have not had to do any since 1973,anyway!Keep any queries coming!