Temperature gauge

[jjad]

I understand that some folk have added a temperature gauge to their 4s.

We've just done 1200 miles in France and the temperature warning light often came on, although the fan didn't come on at the same time (but is working as it comes on when stationary when the warning light isn't on) and there is no boiling in the expansion tank. So I don't *think* that it is overheating, but maybe it is getting too hot at the back of the engine where the sensor is? As soon as the warning light came on we put the cabin heater on and the warning light then went out. So either the sensor is too sensitive or there is some localised overheating near the sensor (poor circulation?).

Is there a complete set of parts that I can buy and fit to provide me with a temperature gauge? I could fit myself, but cannot re-tap sensors as some of you have had to do.

Many thanks, Jonathan

 

[reidalpine]

Hi Jonathan! I'd give the cooling-circuit a real good reverse flush or two. after filling up with rad.flush and driven it around some as per instruction on the bottle.
Also make sure there's no air-lock as this would give a "hot-spot" possibly where the sensor is at.
Fill up with fresh coolant,start up and let sink.suspend expansion-bottle,hang by wire to top of opened bonnet.open All bleed-screws.also open heater-matrix valve to circulate and bleed this Start her up and let run for 10mins.massage/squeeze both fat rad-hoses to get all air out.let coolant run out bleed-valves,when only coolant comes out close bleed-valves from lowest to highest.let expansion-tank hang up there 'till semi-cold,massage rad.hoses again.check level in exp.tank Fill up to max and install-Enjoy!
I gave mine such treatment after I found LOTS of goo in there, temp.gauge is now at approx 85* underways and can reach just under 100*at stand-still,fan cuts in and temp drops instantly as should.
I firmly believe the top rear is The correct place to put the sensor as this is where it gets the hottest. If you've got a general overheating or too- hot problem try pouring in some Water-Wetter (a little at a time) this will effectively lower the temp by 5-10* -R.

 

[Azazello]

It may be a defective temp sensor...
I bought a cheap temp gauge on ebay for less than 20 euros, the only problem was to fit the sensor, but my mechanic solved it drilling and threatening a hole il the water pump... He told me that the best place was a plate in the back of the engine, but when he tried to unscrew the bolts they were so hard that he feared to brook them, so preferred the other place.

 

[godlike]

Mine was doing this when the preignition wasn't set right. After I fixed that it's runing again fine.

 

[jjad]

Thanks for all your suggestions. I don't think that it's the sensor, as it was replaced fairly recently and all was well for some time.

It's probably time it had a coolant replacement anyway, so I will do that (hopefully I can get to the drain plug on the block). I will get the timing checked at a garage when it gets its MOT soon.

Thanks, Jonathan

 

[malcolm]

It would be useful to have a temperature gauge. I'm thinking about one for the Gordini. You can get water pumps with a tapping for a temperature sensor (yours might have one or a blanking plug) and the aftermarket gauges come with matched sensors. I don't know if the thread on the sensor is useful. Shall feed back when I get around to it.

Timing might well affect the other sensor - if it is too retarded it will heat the exhaust manifold which is close to the sensor. Also check the wise for shorts (make sure it isn't resting on the exhaust manifold and burned through).

 

[reidalpine]

also useful to get a sensor for oil-temp instead of water-temp (to use on water-temp I mean) oil-temp sensors usually goes to 150*C. instad of 110*C so wont conk out if overheated. I use a oil-temp sensor from VDO which works great -R.

 

[jjad]

Thanks guys,

please do let us know what you come up with for a water temperature gauge if you do do it Malcolm.

Thanks, Jonathan

 

[jjad]

I did a lot of flushing and although not much gunk came out, the coolant was 2 years old so needed changing anyway.

Turns out (as godlike experienced and Malcolm said) that timing was retarded due to the points wearing. All good now Garage did recommend getting the carburettor cleaned as it's possibly leaking a bit and may have a blockage. Can you get carb gaskets easily? How can you tell which carb you have? I presume it's written on it somewhere, and it's probably easier to see if you take the air clearer box off?

Thanks.

 

[Steve Hennessey]

Yes Jonathan - take off the air cleaner and plate to expose the carb. You may need to clean it with thinners so you can read what typr it is. I suspect it's the 28IF but as your car is Slovenian it may be different!

 

[jjad]

Thanks Steve, you're spot on Zenith 28IF. Do Renault supply gaskets for these still?

You were right too about how dirty it is down there. It seems like oil is being sprayed around?

Thanks, Jonathan

 

[Steve Hennessey]

Not sure if Renault still do the gaskets but you could first try the 'Carburettor Exchange' in Leighton Buzzard (Google them) and phone them to find out. They have helped me with parts in the past. Do get an overhaul kit and do a proper job. The carb is as gunky as I would expect. That will all come off by cleaning the parts in Cellulose Thinners.