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Zenith 28IF problem solving

Thanks Andy, Cornish and Jjad, yes she started up on the 3rd turn this morning, idles for a few minutes and then I pushed back the choke and drove off without stalling. However yesterday, I did give my mixture screw another half turn outwards so that is now 3 full turns outwards
 
Great. We couldn't fix 'modern' cars like this could we?
 
Thanks Petak and Harbourseal, :).
2 years ago, the MOT inspector overtightened my mixture screw and damaged the tip. I repaired it with fine sandpaper and its OK now. At the time I sourced a new one at all4renault but as it was over 40Euro I didn't buy it.
 
Interesting Mojobaby, the mixture screw on mine has been overtightened at some stage, the tip looks flatish ( always has, thought I sourced replacement but was incorrect upon arrival) looking at your video is the point a small (appox 45’) cone, pausing video to check that but confirmation before attempting home repair would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
Hello laxeian, the tip of the mixture screw is needle nose shape. I think that the cone shape that you're talking about is the female side and it's fixed into the wall of the carb. Have a look at Mario's photo on page 3.

I think that my needle was probably bent and when the MOT guy screwed it in tighter, the tip might have connected with the side of the hole and caused damage to the point.

When I scratched the point with my fingernail, there was definitely a hook on the tip. I sanded it flat with 1000 grit sandpaper.

This is what it looks like now but I think its supposed to be sharper
thumbnail_IMG_7076.jpg
 
Exellent Mojobaby,
Could feel a slight burr at tip end, so I’ve repeated your above advice. Photo would be a duplicate of yours.
Possibly over cautious on my part before cracking on, turned in for last ITV with existing screw (from 2.5 turns to 1, just prior to test centre) and it sailed through, but to be sure is to be sure.
Will say that after cleaning and following whats above it does seem to be ticking over smoother, been able to knock the tickover speed adjustment back a 1/4 of a turn, on a quick warmed up run its made the exhaust note smoother when deaccelerating in gears ( exact same route ), top stuff, Thanks
 
Very pleased laxeian!
And I think many of us do that little trick just before the MOT, myself included:)
 
I've resuscitated this thread because it was so useful, and I followed it for cleaning my Zenith 28IF (as stamped on the carb) which had sat for a while (1108cc engine, Spanish import) and wasn't happy ticking over without a bit of choke. Leading to related question below...

Perhaps the collective knowledge on the forum can help my confusion: I bought a carb repair kit for the 28IF as per link www.franzose.de/en/Renault/Alle/Vergaser-Vergaserdichtsaetze/ANR82872/ Note the shape of the diaphragm. Which is different to the one I found on dismantling my carb (diaphragm of which was square). When I went back to Franzose website to check if I'd got the wrong kit (apparently not), I saw that you can buy the diaphragm which I have in my carb at this link www.franzose.de/en/Renault/Alle/Vergaser-Vergaserdichtsaetze/ANR82862/ which it says is also for a Zenith 28IF - but doesn't come in the 28IF kit which I bought.

Am I going mad, or is there more than one type of Zenith 28IF?

The answer this question will help me decide whether or not to use the new needle valve from the repair kit, which I'm concerned might not be for my carb. The main carb body gasket fits and there was a satisfying (to find and clean out) amount of muck in the pilot jet, which I hope is going to resolve my issue, but it seems a shame not to use all the bits from my pricey carb kit. That said, I did get an amazing catalogue with it, which was worth the money on its own and has become sad bedtime reading material - shamefully pushed well under the bed when I've finished with it.

Thank you in advance for any similar experience/ thoughts.

Ben
 
Hi Rustyold4

There are many Zenith 28IF carburetors with smaller and bigger differences

carb model.jpg

On this picture you can find model number according which you can identify your carb and at which car (engine) it was intended to be mounted.

People often switch carburetors from other car models because their carb was not working good. Not saying that is your case.

Here is link to another Zenith 28IF carb that has diaphragm

So you need to identify your carb and see what are factory details for it.
 
Thank you Petak, much appreciated. Thanks also for your photos further up this thread (photos of pilot holes). The side ones on mine were blocked. If anyone would like (at no cost) the diaphragm as per first link in my post above, please let me know and I'll happily put it in an envelope and send it to you.

All the best, Ben
 
Hi
great video it really helped us fix the fuel problem . The main jet was blocked but it wasthat so we checked the fule pump but it wasn tthat .It was the points on the distributer .and it passed the CT
thanks very much
 
On this carburetor there is a spring loaded locking pin/end stop No 48 which keeps the choke plate in the fully opened position. The carb on my 845 engine doesn't have this pin.

**this little spring is the most critical item to be checked that the tilted end of the spring is indeed in its hole. If not you'll certainly get all kind off odd starting & driving phenomens
 
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