Clementine's Garage
Clementine the Cat
 
Image of flower
Yellow R4
 
Réparateur d'automobiles

Clutch Plate Change - yes im going for it, here we go. Photos.

Good morning,
You have to undo the bolts that are more towards the engine. With what you have done now you have undone the bell house from the gearbox. The photo of mojo baby's gearbox is a 845cc gearbox. The bell housing is incorporated in the engine.
With your cleon 1108cc engine the bell housing is separate
Undo all the belts at the font of the engine and take the poulies of too, then you have access to all the bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine
But first put the bolts you have undone back in.

This afternoon I'll send you a picture where to find all the other bolts that hold the gearbox to the engine.
 
Cheers Malcolm, really appreciate any guidance now as I am venturing into the unknown.

I followed as best I could Haynes, admittedly it did say about the 5 bolts attaching the sump, I missed that line.

But Haynes does show a diagram of that front bit coming off. This confused me.

2017-05-18 09.09.11.jpg

Bottom right diagram shows it coming away.

Anyway moving on.

Found a removed the 5 bolts holding the back of the gearbox to the sump. Bit fiddly.

Inked2017-05-18 08.54.03_LI.jpg Inked2017-05-18 08.54.37_LI.jpg

Found the Starter motor and will remove the three bolts .

Inked2017-05-18 09.08.23_LI.jpg

Malcolm what about these two other big bolts, looks like they need to come out correct?

Inked2017-05-18 09.08.26_LI.jpg Inked2017-05-18 09.08.37_LI.jpg

Any am I right I have to remove this pulley?

Inked2017-05-18 09.08.40_LI.jpg

Cheers

Sprackers
 
  • Inked2017-05-18 09.08.40_LI.jpg
    Inked2017-05-18 09.08.40_LI.jpg
    256.7 KB · Views: 2
Wow those three starter motor bolts are fiddly.

The top (bolt of the starter motor) one started spinning and to get a 13 spanner in at the back to hold the head of the bolt was REALLY tricky, had to use a really small (length) 13 spanner.

Then there was the problem of extracting the long bolt (after you have taken the nut off) away from you and out of the hole. Fingers just cant do it.

Top Tip:

I used a angled nose pliers, gripped the shaft of the bolt then pushed it out making sure not to drop it, and SLOWLEY got it out.

2017-05-18 10.11.58.jpg

They are all tricky and tight, the bottom of the three I used a small 13 socket with an angle adapter and an extender, even then it was difficult.(but never impossible)

2017-05-18 10.30.51.jpg

All three out........

I am coming to realise that how on earth did mechanics of yesteryear mend these cars without a socket set and just used spanners....Chapeau.

OK what next?

I've found three big bolts not sure If I should touch them awaiting guidance.

Getting there
 
Hi Harbourseal,

Makes sense now (he said). I'm going to put the 4 bolts back in, remove the belts and the pullies (as Malcolm advised) that will hinder the extraction of the bell housing.

Its quite clear the bell housing has to come.

there are three long nuts that I can clearly see need to be removed.

Belts, Pulleys, Bolts.
 
Found two more nuts behind the bottom pulley. Removed.

Eureka it started to move away.

Problem:

The last Three long nuts removed , on only one of them had a bolt head the other side and consequently I was able to push the whole bolt back through.

The other two (see photos) that is the one on the top (bolt number 1)and the one on the bottom left (bolt number 2) (if you were standing in front of the car leaning in) had NO bolt heads the other side and consequently I could not remove them??

I have tried to remove the whole unit which is now free. I can clear the top bolt, but the bottom left hand side one I cannot clear.

Inked2017-05-18 09.08.26_LI.jpg

Inked2017-05-18 09.08.37_LI.jpg

The question is:

Do these two bolts retract back into the housing?

I gave them a gentle tap but they didnt move so before I do anything stupid I wanted to check.

So close now.
 
hi - the two nuts do indeed need removing - they are screwed onto studs (headless bolts screwed into the engine block), which should stay attached to the engine. The gearbox will slide along these studs when the nuts are removed. The camshaft pulley (on left of last photo) needs removing or the bell housing won't come off.
 
Hi Adam,

Hi I removed the nuts but the studs are still in and I cant get them out. Yes the gearbox slides along them but I don't have enough room to slide the whole gearbox off the studs and out.

Can I removed these studs or do I leave them in?

I don't want to bend the studs or worse still break them off.

Also the pulley is now off. So just the studs is stopping me from getting the gearbox out.

Cheers

Sprackers
 
I'm going to to unscrew the last two rods with a rag and a pair of pliers.
 
I'm not sure if the main shaft will be out enough to remove the gearbox if the housing doesn't clear the studs....
 
Cant get the engine out with the left hand stud still in?

I have pulled then gear block and bell housing out as far as I can and you can see the bottom left hand shiny shaft of the bolt.

there is still the inch and a half still to clear.

IMG_4834.jpg

It looks like I need another 2 inches of space at the front which I haven't got.

Any ideas anyone.

Just use a bit more force? I'm worried about that shaft
 
  • IMG_4835.jpg
    IMG_4835.jpg
    137.6 KB · Views: 0
Well, Haynes says that this operation is quite possible, so something is not quite right. Have you removed the gearbox mount from the gearbox, and the chassis? If you have, then either something else needs to be unbolted, or the engine needs to be tilted down some more, I guess.
 
IMG_4838[1].JPG

Yes the new ones in. Fantastic.

I do have a question . In the box with the clutch came the centering tool and this.....What is it?

IMG_4839[1].JPG IMG_4840[1].JPG

Cheers

Sprackers
 
Well done man:clapping::clapping::clapping::drunk:

That other thing is the clutch bearing.
If you look inside the bell house. You'll find the one to replace.

Good luck.
 
Day 4.

Her she is looking a little dirty, not surprising 150,000Km

IMG_4842[1].JPG IMG_4843[1].JPG

that's a bit better, with the new clutch bearing fitted.

Ready now for reinsertion.

the old plate
 
  • IMG_4845[1].JPG
    IMG_4845[1].JPG
    119 KB · Views: 3
  • IMG_4846[1].JPG
    IMG_4846[1].JPG
    121.7 KB · Views: 4
I've put most of the car back together now..............................Hold the Champagne.

After close inspection of Haynes, something I wasn't aware of, the clutch plate is actually different form one side to another.


So here is the most important tip for anyone wanting to replace a clutch:

A clutch plate is different each side. the center piece is proud one side and flat the other.

Make sure you have the proud centre bit facing out.

Back under the car.

Sprackers
 
Are you now worriedthat it's been assembled incorrectly
This is something that is normal on all cars and most people doing it every day would assemble correctly without thinking about it
Did you disconnect exhaust to allow gearbox down further as then the steering rack doesn't need unboltIng
 
Back
Top