What have I done! (R4 GTL)

[petak]

Few days back i have received small box with treasure inside



two completely refurbished, tested, and pre-adjusted Zenith IF28 carburetors.

Yesterday spend all afternoon to change it

Old one


removed......notice big soot deposit around carburetor stand.



Also managed to get vacuum pump.....used but in good condition
Taken from this distributor



Inside


Cleaned in diesel


Adjust point again and started engine adjust idle little bit

Went to my friends garage for fine tune with strobe light.

Noticed that sometimes spark is passing thru hole in dizzy where wires from cond and coil are conected.
Here


Get home and change that bolt with insulator from second dizzy that i have for parts (one i have taken of vacuum pump)

But this morning can not start car.
Spinning nicely bud nothing is happening.

Need to check spark.....

But it is strange as everything is as it was yesterday afternoon.

 

[petak]

Find way wont start
There is no spark from coil ti distributor.
Changed coil but still no spark. Aldo not 100% sure second coil is good.

Can it be to condensator?
As i have noticed spark there yesterday.
Can it be that coil wont work because bad condensator?
How can i test is condensator good?

 

[petak]

Problem was in condensator.
Change it and car started without any problem.

 

[JonathanT]

Oooh lovely new go faster bits !

Have you ever tried electronic ignition? It's an amazing improvement

Really worth while

 

[petak]

Ordered and received accuspark for ducellier.
Aldo did not put it in carb.
Plan is zo drive it like this next 1000km and then put accuspark.
Reason is to know what changes made improvement and how much.
If i change all at once than i can not point finger in any part i have changed.

I am still in test stage with dizzy, timing and karb.
I thinking of it like learning curve.

 

[borgeb]

It will be interresting to see if the accuspark kit fits and how it will perform.

 

[JonathanT]

Hi Petak

Did you have a little diaphram on your carburettors like in this photo bottom right (red)
It came with my repair kit for a Zenith 28F but I cant see where it goes?

 

[petak]

Hi JonathanT!

Sorry for late answer

That red diaphragm i did not find in my zenith.....

Searching for repair kit, find out there are few kits available for same carb (ZENITH 28IF) but i believe (did not investigate or know for a fact) they are for different sub-models of ZENITH 28 IF. Those additional numbers on side of carb body.

My kit did not even had diaphragm.

I have somewhere PDF file with pictures how to renew carb.....problem is that subtext is in Croatian......but pictures tell more.

 

[petak]

Yesterday had "tricky" situation.
Stuck in traffic.
My (left turn) lane was moving 4m/min and i was looking at my temp gauge.

At some point (after 30 min or so ) needle on gauge went little bit over 100°C. 102-103°C
Fan was working fine, water in system was as it should, but there was no enough cold air ( as i was surrounded with other cars)
I got scared of overheating and got out of lane and start driving around town.
Fan was struggling to cool down temp and normal (90 to 95°C).
As soon as i was on open road temp was as it should.
But after a while had some long slow uphill and needle ended again at 100°C.

Is there something i can do to help fan to keep working temp and not going to 100°C and over?

I was thinking to install second fan that i could start from cabin in situation like this.
Summers can be hot here where i am.
On normal road condition fan is doing job nicely (even in hot days as now are) but in jams or hard uphill fan can not do the job.

 

[petak]

After changing carb and vacuum i was hoping to settle all that and finally get smooth ride with my GTL.

Unfortunately that did not happened.

Will write down all simptoms i have noticed.

1. On morning cold start (aldo it is around 24°C in the morning) pul out choke all the way and starts nicely, but right away i need to get choke back on 1/3 of travel.
If not engine start to "choke" and starting to die.

2. From 0 to 1/3 of choke travel i do not see any difference in engine run

3. My choke light is not lighting when choke is pulled out up till 1/3 of travel. Sometimes blinks but usually is not light on. When i pull choke more than 1/3 of travel i got light.

4. Still have hard hot start (after car was turned of for least 10-15min).
Need to crank it long time and press gas pedal. After some cranking it starts with hard smell of petrol.
If i pull chock (on half way) it is even worse.

5. It accelerates much better than before. Especially upper part of speed 80 to 100km/h. Drive it 110-120km/h without any hesitation on gas pedal.

6. But when i drive it at 60km/h in third gear it shivers.....holding gas pedal steady car drives jumps (can not find right word)...can not get steady drive.
Same at 40 in second, or 65-70km/h in forth gear. Do not feel pinking so believe that timing is correct.

7. Checked all pipes around car. All seem in good condition. There is small reduction on one (smaller - one that goes to inlet manifold) pipeline. On bigger (one that goes to valve cover) there is no reduction, and connection of rubber pipe and valve cover is little bit weaker than it should be.
Can that connection be problem to all this mess?

8. In general car is driving much better on open road and while accelerating than on low revs while in town.

9. On idle engine revs up little bit now and then all by himself

It feels like there is some air leaking or to much fuel is coming to carb in all driving situations. But when out on open road it burns all fuel and you do not feel it but in town it does not burn all fuel and you can feel it.

Thank you for reading my novel.

I know that it is some small thing messing this all around and we will laugh

One more question.
How does you choke cable stands on post on carb
Picture to see details

 

[JonathanT]

Hi Petak - not sure if this is your question but the little clip (circled in red on your photo) holds the choke cable outer. the post immediately to the left of the red circle is where the inner of the choke cable attaches with a small loop.

What I can tell you is all the above symptoms I had on my car but all were very significantly improved with the electronic ignition. Smoother faster quieter and easier starting. Good all round! - I hope it will be for you too.

Maybe another fan would do the trick. No such problem here in the Uk - maybe another umbrella or two but certainly no cooling fan

 

[petak]

Thank you JonathanT!
Will try some more fiddling around carb, ignition, timing before installing accuspark......but will have your comment in mind

My question was awkwardly phrased

I was thinking for position of outer casing of choke cable in relation to holder....How many those small twists is towards carb from metal holder (or clip)

In one conversation gay mentioned to me that position of choke cable outer casing can be crucial for good operation of carb.
As i do not have picture ( among many that i have ) i do not know how outer casing was positioned before.

Does really position of that outer casing maters in carb operation?

 

[JonathanT]

Hi Petak I don't think that it does matter as such as long as you have proper movement of the choke paddle when operating the choke I don't see the finite position of the outer matters. In any case it could vary on every car?

 

[mr-reno-139]

What is worth mentioning is the screw that clamps the rod is adjustable in that as you operate choke flap it opens the accelerator if it is set wrong it will tend to chug and not run cleanly 2or 3mmup or down will make a difference
If you go wrong way it will rev too high when ch oke pulled out

 

[JonathanT]

Hi Petak I'm putting my throttle cable back together this evening and realising there must be a spring missing that returns the crescent shaped cam back into position. Maybe it was that Spring I used on the gear shift? !
Your car is left hand drive so will be a little different. But where does the other end of the big Spring attach ?

 

[JonathanT]

Have I used the return Spring on the gear change ?

 

[mr-reno-139]

Correct answer☺ gear spring is shorter and attached to the downwards bracing bar
This goes from inner wing cross brace down to front chassis bumper bracket hole
Ther should be hole in inner wing high up level with carb

 

[JonathanT]

Yay sussed it (Sorry Petak for hijacking your thread you can delete if you wish)

This is what ive done....

 

[petak]

Hello JonathanT...You got it right.....whole lot (spring and metal clip) you have put on gear lever goes in that hole on throttle cable "thing". Metal clip is put thru
inner wing same way you did for gear lever....

Just need to find right hole

Pictures

 

[JonathanT]

The carb spring is now where it should be. The gear change return spring is now on the top of the rocker box and a semi permanent spring is on the gear change. It should really be in the small hole on the vertical strut I see now Paul thank you! But for the spring I had it works better like this.

Thank you too Petak!