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That's a good point. I chopped up the fuel filter (mine is after the pump) and there was a lot less sludge in the filter than was in the float chamber. Maybe I shouldn't buy cheap fuel filters. I've changed it for an old one that should hopefully last until the fuel level gets low enough...

I did some more work on the Rodeo today and it only broke down once which is pretty good. This time it was rust from the fuel tank that had got past the fuel filter and settled in the float chamber blocking the main jet. I'll need to take the tank out and give it a good clean. I took the...

The rear brake issue is odd. When it's front and rear brakes it's typically adjustment of the master cylinder pushrod. But both rear brakes only must surely be a problem with the rear brake proportioning valve. Good to hear the brakes aren't locking on any more. Maybe the valve got stuck...

I had a lot of problems with driveshaft clearance to the lower wishbones with some new old stock driveshafts. After a year of messing and trying other lower ball joints I ended up hitting the lower wishbone with a hammer a little to make some more space. Today the Rodeo came out of...

For the miles I do any conversion would not benefit the environment. Quite a large portion of the cost of the conversion is energy cost which will never be paid back by the few hundred miles a year driving using no energy at all (or whatever these things claim to do). Car mods are fun though...

That's quite fun. The Late Brake guy is a car enthusiast so always good to watch, and it's good that kits are available just in case petrol engined cars become illegal at some point in the future. Not sure the battery location would suit Claude the F4 very well.

I run 145/80/R13 on all of mine. Uniroyal RainExpert are my current favourites. This makes the tyres slightly larger diameter than the originals but the speedometer is accurate. There should be no rubbing problems with 145 tyres.

I would be wondering about the carb too. Normally when you have fuel vaporisation the fuel boils off through a breather. The boiling should never force fuel out of any overflow. Hot restarting is typical for the R4. Good to see another heatshield there. I did some work on fuel...

That's a really neat idea and nicely made. It's amazing the R4 didn't have those as standard and hot starting is always a pain.

There is a hose that connects to the inlet manifold behind the carburettor. This should have a plastic piece inside that limits the inside diameter of the hose to about 1mm to restrict airflow. I would check that is in place first as it tends to be deleted if the hose is replaced. Do you...

Here is a LHD. The cable runs under the gaitor but is inboard so there probably isn't much movement in the gaiter at that point. Mine has been apart in the past - I'm sure there is supposed to be a P shaped bracket attaching the cable to the gearbox. Or maybe just that spring in Andy's photo.

As above it'll be the rear light earth connection on the side there the indicator is switching other lights. There is no separate earth wire - the earth is through the lamp housing bolts to the rear wing. On one type of light housing the earth also tries to travel through rivets. For this...

If the starter turned at normal speed when you jump started the car then it can only be bad battery or dirty battery terminals.

From memory the jets were originally 91 (0.91mm). But that doesn't matter as fuel has changed and something around 97 or 97 would work a lot better with modern fuels. I'm looking for one too. There are a lot of jets on eBay but I'll need to remove a jet to check size and shape before...

A lot of Lotus cars used the 336 box so worth a look among that crowd too. There will be more Lotus than R15 left. Is it like the R4 box where the clutch cable attaches to a lever on the gearbox and the shaft the lever connects to seizes? For the Renault 4 when they were newer the shaft...

I've had a look at backups and old computers and can't find the curve. It was 10 years ago and I think I messed around with it on the car and didn't finish so didn't save anything. The starting point from a spreadsheet I was messing with (with the distributor timed on the timing mark which is...

I used a 123 tune (programmable) in my Gordini. AT the time it was only available from a company modifying them in France (https://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/r5-alpine-123-tune-programmable-distributors-available.6893/) but it now looks like it is available from 123. The programmable...

The trouble I've had with original distributors is the advance springs no longer give the right advance curve. I've also used 123 ignition which replaces the whole distributor.

14V across the battery sounds about right when the engine is running.

I've tried replacing the rubber cover in the past. The modern balljoints aren't designed to accept new rubber covers and the quality of cheap rubber is terrible and it only lasts for one year. Better replace the balljoints. For the driveshafts often the replacement boots are 'universal' and...