R4 GTL 1985 Restoration

[JdeW]

Great job with sheet metal!

Thanks, the things you can achieve with a little patience, manual labor, tools, a vice, an anvil and a MIG welder

 

[Jurjenz]

Love it!

 

[JdeW]

The body has been hoisted into the ridge of the shed by the use of an electric winch.
Time to clean the garage first and for the couple of following weeks it's time to clean the underside of the body, finishing off the welds on several places, performing some lead loading and many other things we normally don't see or overlook.

 

[harbourseal]

Well done so far. I hope to see it in person soon.

 

[petak]

As start i must say that i am really very happy that you are back to this project.
I have learned a lot from your posts

Way you are dealing with panel rust and panel welding is impressive.

 

[Briangrech]

The body has been hoisted into the ridge of the shed by the use of an electric winch.
Time to clean the garage first and for the couple of following weeks it's time to clean the underside of the body, finishing off the welds on several places, performing some lead loading and many other things we normally don't see or overlook.
View attachment 31013

When you lead loading make sure to neutralise with bicarbonate of soda when repair is over as it will rust like hell. The acid is highly corrosive,great work!

 

[JdeW]

When you lead loading make sure to neutralise with bicarbonate of soda when repair is over as it will rust like hell. The acid is highly corrosive,great work!

Thanks for the tip, I am aware of the corrosive properties of the acid. Work will commence next spring due to winter.

 

[JdeW]

As start i must say that i am really very happy that you are back to this project.
I have learned a lot from your posts

Way you are dealing with panel rust and panel welding is impressive.

Thanks Hrvoje, I'm glad to be back with the project, but the house had and still has priority over the R4.
The bodywork is done now but next spring I will continue.
In the past few months we have first invested in solar panels and a high-efficiency wood stove, wood storage and good firewood to cut on the absurd ridiculous high energy prices in our country

Greets, Joop

 

[JdeW]

It took a while, but here is some news, the restoration project is temporarily on hold.
We knew that there were still problems with the old roof tiles, the asbestos-containing roof boarding and that there were small leaks in the cavity walls as a result, so that it always leaked somewhere during a rain shower causing the outer and inner walls became too damp.
The point is that our restoration house still has and had priority over the R4 GTL, and this spring our savings and R4 restoration budget literally went through the roof, i.e. on the roof.
Finally the house is finished and I can start saving for the R4 again. It didn't completely stop, I cleaned the underside of the body from years of accumulated mud and a few small things. I'll continue again this fall.

Cheers.

 

[JdeW]

Hello people, it's been a while, actually it's been more than quite a while, but I'm back with what is for me the most challenging job, preparation before the body paintjob.
As I wrote before I'll use lead loading as base and the goal is to use the least amount of putty as possible. The challenge lies in the fact that I'm a true mechanic and totally not a sculpter or an art artist but I'll give it a try.
The attached pictures show only one side but it applies to the other side as well.

Starting with tinning the body using the solder flux.

Applying the lead and spreading it out.

More lead and starting using a grater.

And after a while a nice crude shape is formed.

The fine art is done with metal putty and loads of sanding, looking, feeling, sanding, looking, feeling etc. etc.

Finally after several very thin layers of primer, spray putty, primer etc. and by the use of 1200 grit waterproof sanding paper there is a result.

More preparation work has been done at the A and B pillar attacking the areas where the flash rust resides.
It was especially bad at the A pillar, when I dismantled the car I already saw it, as if there was hardly any paint.

More preparation has been done using sealant in the rear wheel arches, the engine bulkhead and sanding the inner bulkhead.

That's it for now, cheers

 

[petak]

You have deserved that beer!
As celebration for restarting restoration process.

Cheers!

 

[Cyprusnoddycar]

Hello people, it's been a while, actually it's been more than quite a while, but I'm back with what is for me the most challenging job, preparation before the body paintjob.
As I wrote before I'll use lead loading as base and the goal is to use the least amount of putty as possible. The challenge lies in the fact that I'm a true mechanic and totally not a sculpter or an art artist but I'll give it a try.
The attached pictures show only one side but it applies to the other side as well.

Starting with tinning the body using the solder flux.

Applying the lead and spreading it out.

More lead and starting using a grater.

And after a while a nice crude shape is formed.

The fine art is done with metal putty and loads of sanding, looking, feeling, sanding, looking, feeling etc. etc.

Finally after several very thing layers of primer, spray putty, primer etc. and by the use of 1200 grit waterproof sanding paper there is a result.

More preparation work has been done at the A and B pillar attacking the areas where the flash rust resides.
It was especially bad at the A pillar, when I dismantled the car I already saw it, as if there was hardly any paint.

More preparation has been done using sealant in the rear wheel arches, the engine bulkhead and sanding the inner bulkhead.

That's it for now, cheers

I started using lead loading 50 years ago, and you have done a brilliant job ! Well done !

 

[Briangrech]

Great job, it would be a good idea to neutralise the acid with soda, tha's what i usually do