Timing + Ignition advance

[André4Renaults]

Dwell set at 56degress..but I loss the smooth drive and some exitacion at low rpm.. And the exhaust noise is very powerful..

Any tip?

Renault 4L

youtube.com

DON'T PANIC! Now you have the dwell angle spot on you'll now have to set the timing again, because by adjusting the gap you will have disturbed the timing. If you have a strobe lamp you'll be able to set it more accurately, but if not, you'll need to use a bulb and a couple of crocodile clips. I'll explain more if you need it!

 

[DAA]

DON'T PANIC! Now you have the dwell angle spot on you'll now have to set the timing again, because by adjusting the gap you will have disturbed the timing. If you have a strobe lamp you'll be able to set it more accurately, but if not, you'll need to use a bulb and a couple of crocodile clips. I'll explain more if you need it!

I had try to set again the mixture.. But nothing..

I have the strobe, but I will 1st try to do a static setting.

Using a bulb I put one terminal on the negative at battery and the other terminal outside in the distributor where connect the condenser, right?

With your experience, I have an retard ou advance ignition time?

Thanks again for all the tips.

 

[André4Renaults]

Right then, here we go....

In setting the points gap by measuring the dwell angle you have set it extremely accurately, and we don't want to disturb that! But by adjusting the gap you have changed the time in the firing cycle at which the spark occurs, and it is this which we'll deal with next. There are TWO methods; static (with the engine off) and dynamic (with the engine running)

STATIC: Make up a 12 volt 5 watt bulb with 2 leads attached to each side of the bulb, with clips on each end of the wires. Attach one end to earth and the other to the "CB" side of the coil, but don't disconnect the wire that's already there. If you're unsure which coil wire this is, it's the one which has the thin wire running into the distributor. Now I will explain what will happen: when the ignition is switched on and the points are CLOSED the 12 volts will run from the battery, through the ignition switch, to the coil, out of the coil, into the points inside the distributor, and to earth. As the distributor turns the points will open, and at the point at which they open the current will stop flowing through the points and will run through the light bulb instead, and it is this precise point you need to find. And this is how to do it....
Remove the spark plugs (it makes turning the engine much easier!) Using the fan belt turn the engine until the timing marks you have already identified as precisely lined up on the flywheel casing. If you turn the engine too far, keep turning it in the same direction until the marks come round again-DON'T turn the engine the "wrong" way! Once the marks are in line, loosen the distributor clamp, so that the distributor can be turned BUT DON'T TURN IT YET! Now connect the bulb as explained above, remove the HIGH tension lead from the distributor, switch on the ignition and then c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y twist the distributor one way and the other and in one direction the bulb will go out. Now twist the distributor the other way to the point at which the light bulb j-u-s-t begins to light up (this is when the points are just opening) Use the fan belt to turn the engine through one complete revolution to confirm the bulb lights as the timing marks and if they do, tighten the distributor clamp, remove the bulb and go for a drive.... (Oh, and pray!)

That's enough for one go! I'll explain dynamic timing tomorrow! I hope this isn't too complicated!

 

[DAA]

Right then, here we go....

In setting the points gap by measuring the dwell angle you have set it extremely accurately, and we don't want to disturb that! But by adjusting the gap you have changed the time in the firing cycle at which the spark occurs, and it is this which we'll deal with next. There are TWO methods; static (with the engine off) and dynamic (with the engine running)

STATIC: Make up a 12 volt 5 watt bulb with 2 leads attached to each side of the bulb, with clips on each end of the wires. Attach one end to earth and the other to the "CB" side of the coil, but don't disconnect the wire that's already there. If you're unsure which coil wire this is, it's the one which has the thin wire running into the distributor. Now I will explain what will happen: when the ignition is switched on and the points are CLOSED the 12 volts will run from the battery, through the ignition switch, to the coil, out of the coil, into the points inside the distributor, and to earth. As the distributor turns the points will open, and at the point at which they open the current will stop flowing through the points and will run through the light bulb instead, and it is this precise point you need to find. And this is how to do it....
Remove the spark plugs (it makes turning the engine much easier!) Using the fan belt turn the engine until the timing marks you have already identified as precisely lined up on the flywheel casing. If you turn the engine too far, keep turning it in the same direction until the marks come round again-DON'T turn the engine the "wrong" way! Once the marks are in line, loosen the distributor clamp, so that the distributor can be turned BUT DON'T TURN IT YET! Now connect the bulb as explained above, remove the HIGH tension lead from the distributor, switch on the ignition and then c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y twist the distributor one way and the other and in one direction the bulb will go out. Now twist the distributor the other way to the point at which the light bulb j-u-s-t begins to light up (this is when the points are just opening) Use the fan belt to turn the engine through one complete revolution to confirm the bulb lights as the timing marks and if they do, tighten the distributor clamp, remove the bulb and go for a drive.... (Oh, and pray!)

That's enough for one go! I'll explain dynamic timing tomorrow! I hope this isn't too complicated!

I will try do each step..

1st i will do my light test.

I have a strobe light for dinamic set.. I will do static for learning.

For dynamic you recommend any advice?

 

[André4Renaults]

To do the dynamic setting:

1/ Loosen the clamp on the distributor, so it can be turned, but DON'T turn it yet!
2/ Turn the engine over until the two timing marks are in line and then mark them both with a small amount of "Tippex" or similar white paint.
3/ Connect up the strobe lamp.
4/ Start the engine and let it warm up, so that it ticks over happily at the right speed.
5/ Point the strobe lamp at the timing marks and switch it on. See how close the timing marks are.
6/ G-E-N-T-L-T-L-Y turn the distributor; as you turn it the marks will move apart or together. Turn the distributor until the marks line up.
7/ Rev up the engine and confirm that the marks move away from each other-they're meant to!
8/ Stop the engine, remove the strobe lamp from the engine bay and tighten the clamp on the distributor.
9/ Go for a drive (and pray!)

This might be easier to do than the static setting!

 

[DAA]

@Andrew4Renaults thanks a lot!!! I did each step you said, and I have my R4L better than ever.

1st i did the static setting,and I notice better changes... But.. with the engine warm I measure with the strob light, and I have the ignition retard 2° ( I have the ignition time with 4°), so i advance gently the distributor for the 6° mark.

Probably I need to adjust the mixture(it are in middle) , but I have again a smooth car with good performance...and an stable idle.

Thanks!!!

A Pic of my light for the static set..

 

[André4Renaults]

I was looking forward to an EasyJet flight to Lisbon to fix your car! Glad my advice helped!

 

[DAA]

I was looking forward to an EasyJet flight to Lisbon to fix your car! Glad my advice helped!

You are welcome!!!

 

[Grenuj]

Now I will explain what will happen: when the ignition is switched on and the points are CLOSED the 12 volts will run from the battery, through the ignition switch, to the coil, out of the coil, into the points inside the distributor, and to earth. As the distributor turns the points will open, and at the point at which they open the current will stop flowing through the points and will run through the light bulb instead

I tried to set the ignition on this way but test light bulb is always on!? I've timed it up to 6 degs btdc (R244D61), and did everything as instructed.
any idea?

 

[André4Renaults]

If the bulb remains alight the points are not closing or are not clean enough to pass the current, assuming you've connected the bulb correctly. The bulb lights when the points are OPEN because the electricity cannot pass through the points, so it has to go though the bulb, lighting it in the process. When the points CLOSE the electricity passes through the points, so there's no need to light the bulb.
One side of the bulb should be connected to earth and the other to the terminal on the coil that has a wire running to the distributor, NOT the wire that comes from the ignition. The ignition wire is permanently live when the ignition's on, whereas the other wire alternates between +12 volts and zero, as the points open and close.
I hope this helps!

 

[Grenuj]

better a picture than to explain incorrectly how I connected it.
I made it based on feel but I don't think it's perfect, the GTL with the rear exhaust should have a more refined sound.
I'm much more experienced in these things now, but I always got along better with the old gtl, even though I was a beginner back then (20 years ago).
I think the femsa dizzy is to blame for that, she annoyed me from the start.

 

[Grenuj]

When the engine cools down, it doesn't run well.
new contact points - adjusted gap 0.4mm, new silicon spark plug wires, cap ok, spark plug not new but cleaned..
there is still left condeser and rotor arm (but it is correct - conducts electricity)..
watching while it was completely dark, no sparks..

 

[André4Renaults]

If there's no spark at the points at all and your lightbulb is always lit then there's no electricity going through them or they're not opening and closing properly. With the points OPEN the fixed part (that's the part that doesn't move) should be earthed. To confirm this, connect one of your multimeter's leads to this part of the points and the other lead to a good earth on the car. When set to OHMS you should have reading of zero; this means there's dead short between this part of the points and the car body, which is how it should be. Check this out & report back.

I'd love to fly over with my toolbox & sort this! Unfortunately a trip to Montenegro's not on the cards at the moment-pity, as a holiday would be nice!

 

[André4Renaults]

Your light bulb wiring looks right. How old is the capacitor? Try the same tests with the capacitor disconnected & see if the bulb goes out and on then.