- Thread starter petak
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Paul Narramore
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No but I will tomorrow :-)
petak
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- Vodice, Croatia
Few new moments in R4 life
Yesterday was sniffing around water pump, hoses and joints, and radiator....
Could not find bigger amount of crystals.
Have few at water temp sensor
But radiator is not looking so nice.....it is in one peace but not looking fresh....found few rusty spots on it.
Will see if i can find new radiator and change it.....This one is from Revoz (Renault factory in Novo Mesto) back in 1992.
Also finally connected rev counter.
First one i have bought did not work properly and after many checkouts decided to trow it away and ordered new one from ebay (From China)
Old one was 25GBP, and new one was less than 7GBP and it looks almost the same (from outside)
at full choke it showing 1500 rpms
at half choke it show 1100 rpms
at idle it show 700 rmps.
That is looking good to me.
Will see how will work during ride. BUt believe it will be OK.
Still there is problem where to put those instruments on dash board!
About squeaking sound from back of the car.
I have found out that sound is coming from lower bracket of shock absorbers. One on chassis legs.
Apparently did not screw nut till the end and absorber is moving little bit in that bracket.
Tried to tight it little bit more but was not able to.
Will see if power tool will help tighten it more.
Yesterday was sniffing around water pump, hoses and joints, and radiator....
Could not find bigger amount of crystals.
Have few at water temp sensor
But radiator is not looking so nice.....it is in one peace but not looking fresh....found few rusty spots on it.
Will see if i can find new radiator and change it.....This one is from Revoz (Renault factory in Novo Mesto) back in 1992.
Also finally connected rev counter.
First one i have bought did not work properly and after many checkouts decided to trow it away and ordered new one from ebay (From China)
Old one was 25GBP, and new one was less than 7GBP and it looks almost the same (from outside)
at full choke it showing 1500 rpms
at half choke it show 1100 rpms
at idle it show 700 rmps.
That is looking good to me.
Will see how will work during ride. BUt believe it will be OK.
Still there is problem where to put those instruments on dash board!
About squeaking sound from back of the car.
I have found out that sound is coming from lower bracket of shock absorbers. One on chassis legs.
Apparently did not screw nut till the end and absorber is moving little bit in that bracket.
Tried to tight it little bit more but was not able to.
Will see if power tool will help tighten it more.
petak
Enthusiast
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- Vodice, Croatia
Eureka!
After more than a year i managed to get rid of squeaking noise from back of my R4.
It took me whole year to find where it is coming from, and the another month to find rubber grommet and time to put it in place.
Luckily i did not throw away old shock absorber rubbers, as one i got with now shock absorbers are to small in diameter.
Shim that goes together with rubber is bigger ( in diameter) than rubber and that shim is touching bracket and making squeaking noise while shock absorber is working.
After i changed rubbers (one i have put now is much bigger in diameter than old one) squeaking stopped, as now when shock absorber is working metal is not touching bracket.
Few days now i am driving around in absolute silence in cabin....i can not describe you how i was crazy already because of that squeaking.
Something different now.
My plastic window frames are getting almost white from sun that i have here. And it did not look nice on the car.
I bought SONAX plastic restorer black
tape all windows and mirrors
Open bottle (as it has sponge on top for easier applying) use small brush and pass all plastic with it.
Left to dry for an hour and take masking tape of. Time will tell how good this stuff really is.
Sun here is really unmercifully during summer
And one puzzle for you (who will read this)
Old guys will remember (Maybe
) That i had big trouble with juddering at low speed especially in 4 gear.
And then i bought air hose for air box, put it in "winter" position and transformation was amazing.
Now when temperatures went up I changed hose to "summer" position and juddering came back. same as it was before.
I have again put hose in "winter" position and drive is nice and smooth!
My question is?
Does really position of this hose make so much difference?
And does this mean that something is still wrong with my carb, and hose is simply masking it up?
P.S. Glad to be back after "skipping class" for some time
After more than a year i managed to get rid of squeaking noise from back of my R4.
It took me whole year to find where it is coming from, and the another month to find rubber grommet and time to put it in place.
Luckily i did not throw away old shock absorber rubbers, as one i got with now shock absorbers are to small in diameter.
Shim that goes together with rubber is bigger ( in diameter) than rubber and that shim is touching bracket and making squeaking noise while shock absorber is working.
After i changed rubbers (one i have put now is much bigger in diameter than old one) squeaking stopped, as now when shock absorber is working metal is not touching bracket.
Few days now i am driving around in absolute silence in cabin....i can not describe you how i was crazy already because of that squeaking.
Something different now.
My plastic window frames are getting almost white from sun that i have here. And it did not look nice on the car.
I bought SONAX plastic restorer black
tape all windows and mirrors
Open bottle (as it has sponge on top for easier applying) use small brush and pass all plastic with it.
Left to dry for an hour and take masking tape of. Time will tell how good this stuff really is.
Sun here is really unmercifully during summer
And one puzzle for you (who will read this)
Old guys will remember (Maybe
) That i had big trouble with juddering at low speed especially in 4 gear.And then i bought air hose for air box, put it in "winter" position and transformation was amazing.
Now when temperatures went up I changed hose to "summer" position and juddering came back. same as it was before.
I have again put hose in "winter" position and drive is nice and smooth!
My question is?
Does really position of this hose make so much difference?
And does this mean that something is still wrong with my carb, and hose is simply masking it up?
P.S. Glad to be back after "skipping class" for some time
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
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The hose in the winter air position makes a lot of difference. Hotter air is less dense, so you get less air but the same fuel which results in a richer mixture.
The 1108cc engine always seems a bit lean (not enough fuel), and modern fuels aren't as good as old fuels which makes matters worse. Some people enlarge the main jet in the carburettor if all else fails (after getting timing right, making sure the vacuum advance works, reducing vacuum leaks etc).
The 1108cc engine always seems a bit lean (not enough fuel), and modern fuels aren't as good as old fuels which makes matters worse. Some people enlarge the main jet in the carburettor if all else fails (after getting timing right, making sure the vacuum advance works, reducing vacuum leaks etc).
petak
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Thank you for answer malcolm....
All those things (timing, vacuum, airtightnes, points, plugs, leads) are checked many times and all is working flawless and can't be adjusted better.
Even drive 700km to get to guy who "know how to set R4" and he told me that he would set it the same as i did.
Only think left to play with is carb, and mixture.
Let me clear little bit more your first sentence. If i want engine work fine on "summer" setting than i need to get more fuel to the car. Or in other words unscrew mixture screw little bit more.
Please answer me did i get it right or not.
All those things (timing, vacuum, airtightnes, points, plugs, leads) are checked many times and all is working flawless and can't be adjusted better.
Even drive 700km to get to guy who "know how to set R4" and he told me that he would set it the same as i did.
Only think left to play with is carb, and mixture.
Let me clear little bit more your first sentence. If i want engine work fine on "summer" setting than i need to get more fuel to the car. Or in other words unscrew mixture screw little bit more.
Please answer me did i get it right or not.
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
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The mixture screw only affects the mixture at idle and low speed so won't do much. At the bottom of the float chamber there is a jet (brass screw in part with a hole in it) which controls mixture in normal driving. I think the hole in the jet is 0.8mm. Check it is clean first and not slightly blocked. If you drill the hole out very slightly the mixture will get richer. Try a small amount, maybe 0.85mm. Don't make it more than 0.9mm.
Before you do that just check that pulling the choke out very slightly makes the car run better - that is a very quick way to test if the mixture is too lean.
Before you do that just check that pulling the choke out very slightly makes the car run better - that is a very quick way to test if the mixture is too lean.
petak
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Tx malcolm!
That is precise what is happening. If i pull choke only 1 or 2 mm than everything is perfect. Juddering is lost.
Just one more question. Will more octane fuel be of any help.
For now i am using unleaded 95 with touch of lead additive.
Would 98 or 100 octane be better and help to sort this juddering out?
That is precise what is happening. If i pull choke only 1 or 2 mm than everything is perfect. Juddering is lost.
Just one more question. Will more octane fuel be of any help.
For now i am using unleaded 95 with touch of lead additive.
Would 98 or 100 octane be better and help to sort this juddering out?
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
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Higher octane fuel will help too. My van has a similar issue. It doesn't judder, but pulling the choke out a tiny bit makes it go faster.
Advancing the ignition a little helps too, but this also increases valve temperatures which is a bad thing, though with unleaded additive you would probably be OK if it just needs a couple of degrees more advance.
Advancing the ignition a little helps too, but this also increases valve temperatures which is a bad thing, though with unleaded additive you would probably be OK if it just needs a couple of degrees more advance.
Cornish4
Le Dazzleur
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Hello petak, when I got my previous 4 I also had trouble with it running with very weak mixture. I mentioned this too Derek Flavell at Renospeed, and without wishing to disagree with you Malcolm, he said that the main jet is .9mm, and the best thing to do would be to open it up to 1mm. This I did and it made a big difference. He also recommended that I always run the car on nothing less than 98 octane fuel, and on prolonged motorway also use an additive with an octane boost, like Castrol Valvemaster. By the way, these very small drill bits are available on eBay.
Regards Brian.
Regards Brian.
petak
Enthusiast
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Thank you Cornish4!
So point is to get hole on main jet little bit bigger than it is now (what ever diameter it is).
For starter i will try to see how much will help if i use 98 (or 100) octane fuel.
And i am using lead additive all the time, every time i fill up petrol.
If high octane fuel does not help as i would like to then will make bigger hole in main jet.
Must search thru ebay for those small drills!
Stay tuned!
So point is to get hole on main jet little bit bigger than it is now (what ever diameter it is).
For starter i will try to see how much will help if i use 98 (or 100) octane fuel.
And i am using lead additive all the time, every time i fill up petrol.
If high octane fuel does not help as i would like to then will make bigger hole in main jet.
Must search thru ebay for those small drills!
Stay tuned!
Cornish4
Le Dazzleur
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Hi petak, yes that sounds good, but if your carb is causing weak mixture I'm pretty sure you will end up enlarging that jet. I think I'm right in saying that not all lead replacement additives contain an octane enhancer, but I might be wrong. The one I use as I said earlier is Castrol Valvemaster with octane boost, and it's advertised as such. You shouldn't have too much trouble finding those tiny drill bits. Regards Brian.
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
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Aother thing to try: http://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/4gtl-need-choke-to-run-smoothly.1229
jjad
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We're lucky in that our GTL doesn't have any trouble on modern fuels. We do use ordinary 'Castrol Valvemaster', which as Brian says is just a lead-replacement additive. If you need an octane boost, then you need 'Castrol Valvemaster Plus'.
petak
Enthusiast
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Yesterday put 100 octane fuel inside.....Will see how will drive now.
Cornish4...already find drills and ordered them....enlarging jet is my last option....but if nothing else does not help than i will make bigger hole.
Malcolm.....many of those this i have already checked. Only one left is that breather filter......But i believe it is clean as i have opened carb not so long ago. Even made small thread in place of that rivet that hold cap in place so i can remove it any time i need.
Will go thru topic once more, write down every suggestion and test them on my R4
jjad...you are very lucky, as many friend of mine have big trouble with this zenith. Symptoms similar to mine, but as it is "farmers car" they do not care much. They rarely go over 60km/h.
Additive i use is only lead replacement.......no octane bust anywhere.
Cornish4...already find drills and ordered them....enlarging jet is my last option....but if nothing else does not help than i will make bigger hole.
Malcolm.....many of those this i have already checked. Only one left is that breather filter......But i believe it is clean as i have opened carb not so long ago. Even made small thread in place of that rivet that hold cap in place so i can remove it any time i need.
Will go thru topic once more, write down every suggestion and test them on my R4
jjad...you are very lucky, as many friend of mine have big trouble with this zenith. Symptoms similar to mine, but as it is "farmers car" they do not care much. They rarely go over 60km/h.
Additive i use is only lead replacement.......no octane bust anywhere.
petak
Enthusiast
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- 1,882
- Location
- Vodice, Croatia
Long time no see!
Well, summer has started overhere quite busy.
So not much time to work on R4 but spend quite time driving it around.
Did not work on carb thing, as i need car everyday. Driving it with choke pulled out just 1-2mm and it drives perfectly like that.
Waiting for micro drill bits to come (0,85mm i am looking forward to).
After loosing all my other possibilities (sometimes i can be quite stubborn) to find where water is entering into cabin I have bought WURTH window sealant (0890100043) and put it between windshield rubber and body.
Now i am waiting for some bigger rain to see if it is worth. As when it was small rain then cabin was dry.
Bought new/oldstyle car radio with CD-player and USB connector.
It is already in the car.
Also find out rubber pedals for it.
Waiting to be put on pedals!
Till next time!
See you all!
Well, summer has started overhere quite busy.
So not much time to work on R4 but spend quite time driving it around.
Did not work on carb thing, as i need car everyday. Driving it with choke pulled out just 1-2mm and it drives perfectly like that.
Waiting for micro drill bits to come (0,85mm i am looking forward to).
After loosing all my other possibilities (sometimes i can be quite stubborn) to find where water is entering into cabin I have bought WURTH window sealant (0890100043) and put it between windshield rubber and body.
Now i am waiting for some bigger rain to see if it is worth. As when it was small rain then cabin was dry.
Bought new/oldstyle car radio with CD-player and USB connector.
It is already in the car.
Also find out rubber pedals for it.
Waiting to be put on pedals!
Till next time!
See you all!
Sutree
Enthusiast
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- Portugal
Hi Petak
Very beautiful radio, were you got it? It´s a new brand retro design or something ?
petak
Enthusiast
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- Location
- Vodice, Croatia
No Mojobaby....speakers are on the shelf under dashboard on left and right side as i could not get right size one to fit in center.
Sutree...radio is brand new but with old-ish look. When it is turned off than it looks like on pictures, but when you turn it on than lights and display start to shine and blink and you definitely know it is new radio. I searched for some oldstyle radio with mp3 player but others i have found (BECKER for instance) are 400-500€. and i would be afraid to left that expensive radio in R4 even if i manage to get that kind of money for car radio.
This one is reasonable price (cca 130€) car radio that looks old as rest of the car.
It is AUNA TCX-1-RMD radio.
Bought it over Croatian online shop and paid in kunas (Croatian currency) but it came from Berlin, and company is located in Berlin.
If you are interested you can try to search it in Google (or some other tool) for Portuguese on line shop that sells same radio. I am certain there is one.
Sutree...radio is brand new but with old-ish look. When it is turned off than it looks like on pictures, but when you turn it on than lights and display start to shine and blink and you definitely know it is new radio. I searched for some oldstyle radio with mp3 player but others i have found (BECKER for instance) are 400-500€. and i would be afraid to left that expensive radio in R4 even if i manage to get that kind of money for car radio.
This one is reasonable price (cca 130€) car radio that looks old as rest of the car.
It is AUNA TCX-1-RMD radio.
Bought it over Croatian online shop and paid in kunas (Croatian currency) but it came from Berlin, and company is located in Berlin.
If you are interested you can try to search it in Google (or some other tool) for Portuguese on line shop that sells same radio. I am certain there is one.