Clementine's Garage
Clementine the Cat
 
Image of flower
Yellow R4
 
Réparateur d'automobiles

What have I done! (R4 GTL)

petak

Enthusiast
Messages
1,728
Location
Vodice, Croatia
Yes, it could be worse.

Key stayed in ignition lock while i was fiddling all that with steering column (dumb I know) and somewhere in that process bent.

Latter i tried to straighten it but it snapped. As expected.

But i managed to find lookalike key and made new one.
IMG_20200430_170920.jpg
IMG_20200430_174731.jpg
IMG_20200430_174737.jpg

Number are there if someone need to make spare one and wants to have same looking key.
 

petak

Enthusiast
Messages
1,728
Location
Vodice, Croatia
On Sathurday day was sunny and nice for short family trip with R4.
We decided to go fortress Ključica in National Park Krka which is some 100km round trip.
Nice road test after all this fiddling around car.

Here is map of our trip. only end part.
Mapa.jpg

Up to place "KLJUČ" is asphalt road, and after that is gravel road

While we got to place Ključ storm, and heavy rain came above us. So walking part of our excursion fell apart. Walking path is wery steep and slippery in dry condition so i did not want to test it with kids.

IMG_20200502_124351.jpg

Rain turned into hail.
IMG_20200502_122746.jpg

So we saw fortress only from car
IMG_20200502_122906.jpg
IMG_20200502_123258.jpg

But still we decided to carry on with our small wild adventure and went down to the river Čikola canyon
IMG_20200502_123310.jpg

Panoramic view
IMG_20200502_123544.jpg

River Čikola was dry
IMG_20200502_124444.jpg
IMG_20200502_124540.jpg
 

petak

Enthusiast
Messages
1,728
Location
Vodice, Croatia
But short while after we crossed wooden bridge over Čikola our adventure give us one more turn.

Here somewhere where red dot is on the map.
Mapa zastoj.jpg

We got to the uphill (very steep) and really destroyed gravel road. Big water gully and big stones. R4 could not get up there. Tried few times but without much luck. Tires started to spin and throwing gravel all around
Good thing is I managed to test brakes and they are doing superb. Handbrake especially :D

After few attempts we decided to go back same way we come there.

Uphill was little bit less steep and road was little bit less destroyed so we managed to get up there.

IMG_20200502_130136.jpg
IMG_20200502_130156.jpg

On way back we saw fellow in dyane. so day was fullfill.
IMG_20200502_115125.jpg

On the road it looks like R4 has little bit more power and agility, especially at uphills.

Stay safe everyone!
 

petak

Enthusiast
Messages
1,728
Location
Vodice, Croatia
We are counting km unstoppable.

R4 kilometri 07-07-2020.jpg

Still have big trouble sorting out vibrations at front end.

I am putting my money on driveshafts now.

Actually i have problem sorting out new recondition one so will try to do what i can.
Tried to polish grooves on wheel side joint as recommended by guy who is living out of fixing R4's
IMG_20200628_133317.jpg
IMG_20200628_133317-1.jpg
IMG_20200628_132516_1.jpg

hope today will find time to change one driveshaft to see will there be any difference.

If this does not work out good will send them to guy who is reconditioning driveshafts.

Where do you find new driveshafts (or reconditioned) if you ever needed to change it.



Meanwhile, i am looking for spear parts (new or good used one) so recently bumped at brand new, unused, original Renault, DeCarbon rear shocks.

Amortizeri - zadnji.jpg
Amortizeri - zadnji 2.jpg

They are going straight to the car as Monroe that are on car now are gone. Some time now i feel that rear wheels are not holding road good as they did when were new. It took 5 years and 50tkm for Monroe to fall apart.

If someone have front DeCarbon shocks for sale please let me know!

For the end of today elaboration i must say that ACCUSPARK electronic ignition that i have put inside dizzy while back is still working same.

Have slight problem with hot start but it looks more as some issue with current than carb.
When i turn key everything is OK. Bulbs light up and fuel gauge get current and needle jumps. But in the moment i turn key more to ignite starter star to crank but fuel gauge needle fall down to zero. And i can crank it long time without start. Yet again, when i turn key back (actually it turns back it self, second you leave it) car starts hardly because there is to much fuel inside cylinders from long cranking.
Still with this problems my consumption drooped down to 5,2-5,3l/100km (53-54mpg)
 

JdeW

Enthusiast
Messages
695
Location
Laarbeek The Netherlands
Where do you find new driveshafts (or reconditioned) if you ever needed to change it.
Drive shafts available at:
- R-Quatre (The Netherlands) https://www.renault4onderdelen.nl/Webwinkel-Category-7295381/Aandrijfassen.html (OEM refurbished and/or aftermarket)
- Der Franzose (Germany) https://www.franzose.de/en/Renault/R4/Antriebswellen/ (think they're aftermarket)
- Leboncoin https://www.leboncoin.fr/equipement_auto/1811726541.htm/
- Or search on partnumber 7701348098, there are many brands, not sure which are the best


Have slight problem with hot start....
The hot start problems where always an issue with the GTL's and Zenith 28IF as I encountered in the 80's and 90's with my first GTL even with the normal higher octane petrols in those days, and keep in mind I drove a lot with my first GTL and with a lot I mean really a lot of miles.

The main problem is that the carb is mounted directly on the in and outlet manifold. When the engine is shut off the excess heat from the manifold causes the hot start trouble. The temperature under the bonnet rises excesivly and can cause a pressure rise in the fuel line between the fuel pump and carb. This rise in presure is a cause that the float needle won't close correctly so extra fuel flows through the float chamber into the manifold and causes the trouble.

I'm curious about this modification described in my Haynes manual, and will apply it when I can continue working on my GTL so a 3 line fuel pump with the calibrated returnline and applying a ceramic coating on the complete manifold just for my curiosity, maybe in combination with a fan that runs for 10 minutes after the engine is shut off, just to rapidly cool the manifold.
 

petak

Enthusiast
Messages
1,728
Location
Vodice, Croatia
Drive shafts available at:
- R-Quatre (The Netherlands) https://www.renault4onderdelen.nl/Webwinkel-Category-7295381/Aandrijfassen.html (OEM refurbished and/or aftermarket)
- Der Franzose (Germany) https://www.franzose.de/en/Renault/R4/Antriebswellen/ (think they're aftermarket)
- Leboncoin https://www.leboncoin.fr/equipement_auto/1811726541.htm/
- Or search on partnumber 7701348098, there are many brands, not sure which are the best

TX Jdew!


I know about R-Quatre and Der Franzose and Melun and was looking on their web and they are my last option as prices are high (postage to Croatia also)
Leboncoin have never tried to contact someone about add.

I was hoping that someone have experience to share about aftermarket driveshaft brands. Question was not set up precise and correct as it should be



The hot start problems where always an issue with the GTL's and Zenith 28IF as I encountered in the 80's and 90's with my first GTL even with the normal higher octane petrols in those days, and keep in mind I drove a lot with my first GTL and with a lot I mean really a lot of miles.

The main problem is that the carb is mounted directly on the in and outlet manifold. When the engine is shut off the excess heat from the manifold causes the hot start trouble. The temperature under the bonnet rises excesivly and can cause a pressure rise in the fuel line between the fuel pump and carb. This rise in presure is a cause that the float needle won't close correctly so extra fuel flows through the float chamber into the manifold and causes the trouble.

I'm curious about this modification described in my Haynes manual, and will apply it when I can continue working on my GTL so a 3 line fuel pump with the calibrated returnline and applying a ceramic coating on the complete manifold just for my curiosity, maybe in combination with a fan that runs for 10 minutes after the engine is shut off, just to rapidly cool the manifold.

I know for that problem and for solution. You already talked about that and have put some photos from manual about it.


Mine problem looks more like current problem. As sometimes it starts perfectly and sometimes it won’t.
As a matter of fact i did not have so much hot start issue so far. This is at least strange especially if you think about environment where i live. Hot summer, with more than 40° under bonnet, if car is left in the sun.
 

JdeW

Enthusiast
Messages
695
Location
Laarbeek The Netherlands
TX Jdew!

I was hoping that someone have experience to share about aftermarket driveshaft brands. Question was not set up precise and correct as it should be
Well petak,
I don't have experience with new aftermarket driveshafts.
Here in The Netherlands I would exchange the old original part for a refurbished old original which is a bit expensive, but a hobby costs money anyway :D

On the other hand I found a shed full of old original parts just 15 euro each not far from my house.
Just buy 10 of those and surely 1 will be good and you've 9 left for parts :D


And to save on postage costs, maybe living over here is cheaper as you'll find many good R4 parts in a small circle. :D
 

angel

Enthusiast
Messages
2,156
Location
Athens, Greece
Your starting problem looks like ignition switch failure, for start check voltage at ignition coil (+) when cranking. Sometimes pitted or burnt contacts inside ignition switch will not allow current to pass when switch is turned at "D" position.
 

petak

Enthusiast
Messages
1,728
Location
Vodice, Croatia
Well petak,hobby costs money anyway :D

I am aware about that, but hobby will have to wait for now.

On the other hand I found a shed full of old original parts just 15 euro each not far from my house.
Just buy 10 of those and surely 1 will be good and you've 9 left for parts :D
Have smaller pille of driveshafts in my garage.

That is why i am playing with them.
And best part is it cost me nothing but my time :D

Left side driveshaft change.
IMG_20200718_164423.jpg.c858c55b7be7efe2fc7f8f2c4de3c904.jpg

Made some 100km with this driveshafts (Left and right) and it looks promising.
Current setup.
- Right side - one of original that i have and which i have striped including wheelside joint and polished grooves.
- Left side - one that was on right side before (believe it is still form factory)

On test run i have reached 110km/h and slight vibrations start little bit before 110.
But so small that might overlook them if i was not concentrated to vibrations.

Still will monitor vibrations
Next step is to rebalance wheels to see if i will get something there.


Your starting problem looks like ignition switch failure, for start check voltage at ignition coil (+) when cranking. Sometimes pitted or burnt contacts inside ignition switch will not allow current to pass when switch is turned at "D" position.

Thank you angel.....so it is key lock problem.....will investigate.....TX!
 

petak

Enthusiast
Messages
1,728
Location
Vodice, Croatia
Angel was right. My starting problem was because ignition barel went wrong.

The other day it stoped to cranck at all when i turn key.
Luckly R4 is easy to push start on your own. :whistle:

I believed it was starter issue. So took all apart, steering rod, clutch cable, engine bracket with clutch cable, take one starter out and put another in (i have prepared starter for spare if i ever need it).
Turnes key and simptoma were same.

Then i had to change whole ignition lock barel with new Valeo one. Car started instantly.

So now i have two key. One for doors and one for ignition.
IMG_20200815_215833.jpg

Not happy about it (i know it is crasy) so will try to switch door locks to ignition lock key.

Does anyone know how to take out ignition barel from ignition lock?
 

angel

Enthusiast
Messages
2,156
Location
Athens, Greece
IMG_20200815_215833.jpg
Pins for the key "combination" are located in the main lock housing, under this plastic cover. If you have locksmith skills you may be able to swap these from the old lock, in the right order, but having done this once, I would try to avoid it!
If the mechanical part of the old steering lock (locking pin, barrel itself, spring etc) is in good working order, it's way easier to fit the electrical part of the new switch (the plastic barrel with cables on it) on the old lock. At the bottom of the lock there are two screws that hold the steering lock pin bracket as well as the electrical contact drum. Take this bracket off carefully, looking for flying parts from the lock pin, and you'll have the contact drum in your hands.
 

petak

Enthusiast
Messages
1,728
Location
Vodice, Croatia
Tx Angel.
I have tried once on old ignition lock but did not managed to take of barel even all small spring and pins were out which are hide behind that plastic cover you have circled.

So for now until i find someone who is skiled to do it for me i will have two keys.

Today i was plaing with switch for all 4 turn signal.
IMG_20201016_201241.jpg
Mine way cosing problems with regular turn signal. They did not wanted to work when switching lever. But would sudently start to work after fidling with hazzard light switch.

So i open it

IMG_20201016_201257.jpg

IMG_20201016_201309.jpg
and cleaned contacts (still messy on pictures)

IMG_20201016_201326.jpg

IMG_20201016_201353.jpg

And assemblie it before puting back cover.
IMG_20201016_201501.jpg


Everithing else is working fine on the car.
Driveshafts are holding on after polishing.

Bought one set for repairing steering rack so that is my next task.
Will be informed on progresa.
 
Top