Clementine's Garage
Clementine the Cat
 
Image of flower
Yellow R4
 
Réparateur d'automobiles

What have we done this time (R4 F4)

Some rusted brake lines.
20220118_194027.jpg

20220118_194046.jpg
20220118_194200.jpg
20220118_194149.jpg
20220118_194031.jpg

They brake even if you think bending them

And i am.strugling to remove connections to compensator.

Will have to use some heat or torch
 
Some work was done here also in past year. not much but slightly progress is noticable.

Front drum brakes dismantled. Full of dirt, grees and rust. But they worked well while car was on the road

prednja desna kočnica (1).jpg
prednja desna kočnica (2).jpg
prednja desna kočnica (3).jpg
prednja desna kočnica (4).jpg
20220126_203641.jpg
20220129_173134.jpg
20220131_181836.jpg

Someone was doing repairs without propper parts. On one side brake pads holding pins were made up
prednja lijeva kočnica (16).jpg
 
All parts were sandblasted

20220120_203313.jpg
20220120_203307.jpg
20220120_203310.jpg

20220120_203247.jpg


Bigger parts (drums, hubs, and brake pads) are coated with WURTH rust converter

20220213_122122.jpg

And they look like this after one coat and few hours
20220213_122108.jpg

Smaller parts are zink galvanised
20220808_163419.jpg

Crossed parts are made up to hold brake pads in place

20221028_181829 (2).jpg

And springs are bought new
20221028_181717.jpg

20221028_181928.jpg
 
Bigger parts are painted after coat of rust converter. New bearings in place
20221014_192521.jpg

Explode view
20221022_165339.jpg

Put together
20221022_172314.jpg

Other side
20221022_172330.jpg

Brake pads with all parts (left and right side)
Prednja desna kočnica (1).jpg
prednja lijeva kočnica (1).jpg


Brake pads and hubs in place

20221107_202848.jpg
 
And put on car
20221112_175640.jpg
20221112_180238.jpg
20221112_180339.jpg
20221112_180344.jpg
20221206_200304.jpg

Sway bar in place

20221222_193848.jpg.91799778f4527438844db5c63ee000eb.jpg
20221222_193925.jpg.611a1a46d36d5d812a31297845a9febe.jpg

And that is all about front suspension.

There is left to conect brake lines.

Connectors and pipes are bought. Flaring tool is borrowed
20220731_125331.jpg
20220731_130139.jpg
20220803_203504.jpg
 
Then i jumped to rear axle.
20220121_182852.jpg

First i needed to remove chassis leftover which was welded to bracket
20221014_192844.jpg

A lot of precise (dremel) cutting and grinding was done in proces as i di not wanted to ruin bracket
20221014_192915.jpg

20221014_195110.jpg

And some hammering was involved
20221014_194949.jpg

And finaly chassis was removed
20221014_201136.jpg

Had to cut off welding metal left on bracket (black line on far side)
20221014_202338.jpg

Marked torsion bar possitions
20221112_142219.jpg

But can not took torsion bars out. They are so rusted and stucked that even heating did not help. I did not heat to much as i am afraid not to destroid torsion bars

Now i am triing to figure out some other way to take bars off. Not sure if it will work


New silend blocks are already in house. Waiting to be instaled
20221011_204101.jpg
20221005_180944.jpg
 
Very nice work on the drum brakes :clapping:
About the torsionbars.... I had the same issue with my R4 back in 2017. Everything was so stuck due to the rust that it took a lot of time and force.
I used every day a lot of penetrating oil and let it soak for a couple of days. Use a 1,5kg hammer and a stump chisel and just start hammering. It took me several hours but eventually the bars came out.
 
TX JdeW! I was studding your topic about removing arms from rear axle.


Managed to get my hands on steel rod fi20mm 300mm long.

Plan is
1. lover axle on ground in horizontal orientation.
2. one side support to wall
3. put steel rood inside arm into splint hole that holds torsion bar
4. put 2T jack on that rod and support it to wall opposite ot first wall.
5. use 2T hydraulic force to press put torsion bar.

Hope it will work!
 
Today i was destructive.

Finally took a part rear axle.

Did not go as planed with hidraulic press but bigger hammer (5kg).

Support axle on step in garage
20230105_185300.jpg

Put rod inside arm. It was easier to hit it wirh hammer while it was staing still inside arm. After i started to move torsion bar have turn around and hammer it out thru arm
20230105_185313.jpg20230105_185328.jpg

Eventually torsion bar started to.move
20230105_185653.jpg

Then i turned direction .
After an hour of hammering everithing came apart.
20230105_205522.jpg

Now i am affraid that markings i have put on bars are not to visible anymore. But will deal with that later when time come.

Apparently tgis penetration fluid helped alot
20230105_212419.jpg

Still lot of rust left inside splines20230105_205253.jpg




One thing i am wonderin if someone know.

Are this marking on bracket and toraion bar have some alighment meaning

Marking on bracket
20230105_205309.jpg

And sricker on torsion bar
20230105_205005.jpg
 
Congratulations on dismantling such a rusty rear axle without having to cut or break a single part!
The markings are there to aid reassembly, I suppose the sticker had been placed at the factory to line up with the mark on the inner mounting.
I would not bother with aligning them, I would simply set ride height from scratch, especially since the special tool to place the suspension arm at the correct position is so easy to make.
More important is not to mix left and right torsion bars - there are small punch marks at the end of the bars that should still be visible.
Don't forget to coat the splines at both ends with graphite grease when reassembling.
 
Congratulations on dismantling such a rusty rear axle without having to cut or break a single part!
The markings are there to aid reassembly, I suppose the sticker had been placed at the factory to line up with the mark on the inner mounting.
I would not bother with aligning them, I would simply set ride height from scratch, especially since the special tool to place the suspension arm at the correct position is so easy to make.
More important is not to mix left and right torsion bars - there are small punch marks at the end of the bars that should still be visible.
Don't forget to coat the splines at both ends with graphite grease when reassembling.

Thank you! It was not easy!

Markings are from factory. I had same thinking about them but wanted to check with someone.

I have marked left and right bar, that is done. Also have marked position of splined inner bracket in relationship to arm.

Tx for the tip. Graphite grease is ready. Have used it before on front torsion bars. I am aware of it advantage . Now i can pull front torsion bars with hands. No need for hammering :D
 
I've never seen photos of the rear suspension bust removal before. I've removed the outer mounting and replaced it with a new one with bush already installed. Hoping my inner mountings will last forever.
 
It is pain in the ass but doable......must be carefull not to brake any microdrill inside rubber........then it gets harder.....:D........ask me how i know :laughing::whistle:

I bought only bushes for outher mounting bracket. Thinking was not to throw away something that is usable.
 
Destruction on other arm continued.
Same procedure
20230203_192456.jpg
20230203_192514.jpg
20230203_202221.jpg
20230203_195140.jpg
20230203_201058.jpg
20230203_201416.jpg

On this side rubber was in much worse state.
It crumbled under pressure.

I think it would not last long if got back on the road like this
 
Pulled out my sandblasting box yesterday

20230218_144317.jpg
20230218_144323.jpg

to try to sandblast inner torsion bar brackets.

After soaking few days in alcohol vinegar
20230219_192307.jpg

And brushing wuth steel brush they look pretty decent
20230225_181541.jpg
20230225_181549.jpg

After an half an hour of sandblasting with my "homemade" box, compressor and sandblasting gun i managed to do one :D

Guess which one
20230225_190520.jpg20230225_190530.jpg

Meanwhile rain and storm started. Not so good time to work outside

After sandblasting one that is clean i cover with wuerth rust converter to prevent humidity from air to start rust process again.

20230225_191158.jpg

At first it looks like you poor milk over it, but soon after few hours it turns to black.

This way it can stay unpainted for some period of time before other things are finished and ready for painting.

But with arms i might have some issue as i do not have big enough box to put them soak in vinegar, and rust is so hard that it might be big challenge for my sandblasting tool to do the job.

But challenge is there to challenge it. :D

20230225_181529.jpg
 
Hi Petak

Any mechanic you may know around varazdin that can have a look at my Renault 4

Just want a check over after sitting 9 years in a garage and then hopefully take it for Croatian mot if all is well.

Let me know if you do thanks
 
Rob you got all info you needed.

YOu are lucky as i wasn't on this forum for some time now.

While i am here just to let you know that no much of work is going on here.

Just put rear "legs" to soak little bit in vinegar. Similar to old granpa's feet when they (feet) get old and tired and need decent manicure.

20230311_193527.jpg
 
Nothing much happened here also since last time. But project is not abounded. It is still much alive in my head and heart.

Rear legs are cleaned from rust and coated with wurth rust converter from inside and outside waiting to be painted.

Postponing puting rear axle back in one piece as i have lost information how inner bracket is positioned in comparison to arm.
I can not find that information nowhere in manuals or DIY projects.

There is option to dismantle another rear axle and take measurements so i can put this axle back together.

Will post progress here when it happens.

Stay beautiful and cheerful

Cheers
 
Back
Top