CV Joint..Can I do it my self with basic tools? Drive shaft Change Photos

[Sprackers]

Hi all

In preperation fopr my trip to Thenay via Stockholm I must address the CV Joint.

I have read all the threads and read my Haynes manuel and I still cant find a simple explanation how to do it.

Do I need a joist? or can I get away with just a couple of supports and a jack?

Do I need that special tool? I have a pretty good set of tools and plenty of common sense (or life skills as they call it now).

I have a microwave to replace the collar and I will need special grease.

ITs the nock nock as i turn left then quiet , so its def the CV joint.

Regards all

Sprackers

 

[Azazello]

You need a cone and a puller...

 

[jonigel]

No you dont need special tools to remove the drive shaft . Remove the large nylock nut with the wheel on the ground unless you have an air gun.Jack up that side drain oil from g/box disconect track rod end and top swivel turn drum to front of car and tap drive shaft with copper mallet through hub it is a close fit and then pull drive shaft out. Collect large copper washer.
Now you need a special tool as mentioned above for the gaiter.
But if it is noisy as you say you are better of getting an exchange unit for about 50 euros .I dont think you can repair it other than change the gaiter.

 

[Sprackers]

I have looked on melun Retro passion and a new drive shaft is €60/€70.
I have read that getting a new gaitor on is very difficult.
I think I am going to have a go at replaceing the whole drive shaft with gaitor already attached.
This seems like a commmon question
Thanks for the info...very helpful
Photos to follow

 

[Azazello]

Have a look on mrauto or other generic online spare parts seller. .. it is easy to find drive shafts at less than 50 euros.

 

[Sprackers]

Brilliant thanks

 

[montenegro]

I think you will only try and replace the joint and cover once to realize that it's not worth the hassle and the effort !

 

[JonathanT]

Hi Sprackers would definitely recommend replacing as a whole unit. There are several listed on eBay but beware of incorrect listings! The Haynes manual refers to Roll pins near the gearbox. My GTL didn't have them and following the earlier comment undo the big nut on the wheel end with the wheel still on the ground. I then removed the top ball joint from the arm altogether. The whole lot then swings out of the way and the shaft simply pulls out of the gearbox. Keep the car raised on the side you are working so the transmission oil doesn't run out the shaft hole. The shaft at the big nut wheel end may need a little tap. This is where a drift is useful. It's a lot less daunting than you think . Stay cool

 

[Sprackers]

Hi Jon

Bought a new drive shaft from Oscaro. €65 but got all the correct dimensions (i think) and it said it was for an HAO gear box whiih I know for a fact is mine.

I have one doubt though I wonder if you can help.

Obvioulsy there has been knocking for the last 3 years specially only on one side when I turn uphill turning the wheel and turning a corner anti-clockwise

I looked under the car at both drive shafts.

Looking from inside the car out the front window........

Left hand side drive shaft: Both Gators split both ends, Looks like oil seepeing out of joint between gear box and driveshaft

Right hand side shaft : All looks good gators both intact.

BUT the knocking is coming from the Right side drive shaft????????????? the one that looks perfectly alright.

I am completely confused now. Any tips?

 

[JonathanT]

I ultimately will replace both. At the moment only the left one is replaced.

If I remember correctly the left one knocked when I turned right and uphill. Not till I had the shaft completely off the car could I feel the play in the joint and therefore be sure which one was the culprit. Some oil had escaped too.

It's logical the other one is leaking oil/grease too. It's perfectly possible that one is close to going wrong too.

Any others contribute?

 

[Sprackers]

Well its one of those things that I guess you are right.

I guess once Ive done one I will do the other.

By the way I got under the car and grabbed the drive shaft's and tried to wiggle them hoping I would feel a lot of movement.

Hoping to feel the side that is making the clunking sound to move around .

They hardly had any movement just a tiny tinylittle bit and both the same amount.

How did you get those knuckle ball joints apart without braking/bending/ruining them?

 

[mr-reno-139]

My test for knocking driveshaft is to lock a pair of mole grips on middle section and then see what happens best done with car on ground and steering straight ahead
there will always be a small amount of play even on a new or low mileage shaft however if you can get a knocking noise then something is a miss
also be aware that's a lot of drive shafts available will be reconditioned units with inferior quality metal joints with much shorter life than genuine renault unit

 

[André4Renaults]

A worn driveshaft will knock more when it's under load. Put the car on full lock on each side then accelerate and see which way it sounds worse. It ought to give you an idea as to which side is the most worn. The knocking is usually caused by the ball bearings developing slight groves in them, which then wear more and as the race moves it makes a "knocking" sound when cornering. Unless you have very specialised tools and an impressive workshop you won't be able to refurbish them yourself. As has been said, a new joint should NOT knock at all.

 

[mr-reno-139]

By the way don't attempt to drive car with mole grips on just make sure handbrake on and rock grip gently

 

[Sprackers]

I have decided to change the drive shaft (s).

With the wheel on full lock left, turning uphill, knocking on the right . Couple that (pardon the pun) with the split gators and the oil seal gone on the left drive shaft. Its time to do the lot.

And while Im at it bushes and oil seals on both.

Ive orderd the drive shaft and it looks brand new on the website. Oscaro. I dont know if you can get Renault ones Mr Reno.

Jon, here is a photo of the 3 knuckle joints. Do I remove 1 and 2 and 3 or just 1 and 2?

Did you remove the brake calipers?


Cheers

Sprackers

 

[mr-reno-139]

1 and 2 only removing the caliper is necessary because the brake hose will stop the hub assembly from moving down far enough to get outer end of shaft clear
You will need to keep shaft pushed inwards as it is spring loaded and there is only one exact combination of hub position for it to clear the end threads

 

[JonathanT]

Hi Sprackers I'm no expert . Paul and others on here can help you more. But this eve I removed both shafts and the engine. Here is a photo sequence: if you have wheels with a hole in the middle it will stop the whole hub rotating as you undo the nut. If it's tight a little help with a blowtorch should soon have it shifted. Tap the shaft back... Note the drift! With 1& 2 removed the assembly will swing out of the way (I'm liking that word....assembly ) you can then pull the shaft out by hand but do not loose the shaped copper washer that goes between the shaft and the hub bearing.

 

[Sprackers]

Love it. Just waiting for the drive shaft to turn up and I rekon Im ready.

What aboout putting grease?

 

[Sprackers]

And what are the name of those rubber rings around the ends of the nuts 1 and 2. They arent bushes as I thought they are some sort of rubber rings?

 

[mr-reno-139]

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nyloc_nut
There called nyloc nuts designed to be a pain when the threads are rusty as well
wire brush first and plenty of penetrating oil
you will need a ball joint breaker unless you are really lucky and have got the knack of using shock method with hammer