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look what I found

/\ /\ /\ As he says, the centring is critical. You can't expect the plate to centre itself once in use as you should have tightened the bolts too much to allow this to happen. If the gearbox shaft slides in smoothly (don't forget Copperslip or similar on the shaft!) then all should be well. If it goes in awkwardly then you've not centred the plate properly or something else is out of kilter. Centring shafts can be bought from most motor factors & well worth their money.
 
Genuine renault or valeo has a plastic spigot tool to insert and centralised the centre plate and then tighten cover plate
If it's not right you won't get box to go in without force and possible damage
If box doesn't go straight on try and slacken few turns each bolt slide box on and retighten evenly through space under water pump keep rotating
Not possible on 1108
 
I mounted clutch a few times and always centred it just by looking straight and adjusting manually by hand and a long screwdriver. It isn't very difficult.
Indeed r4 allows to tighten nuts later by the hole in gearbox bell.
 
Here's a closer look at the clutch plate and the hole in the friction plate.

Chudson, I also tried to centre it "by eye". I think I am quite accurate. At first it was difficult because as I turned one bolt, the plate would slide off-centre, but then I realized that I had to turn the bolt only a little and then do the bolt on the far side.

What I mean Andrew, is that if the hole is just 1mm off centre, the shaft should still go in quite easy and then when the clutch is activated, the friction plate will lift off the flywheel and centre itself perfectly.
Or am I misunderstanding how a clutch works?

DSCF6645.JPG
 
Looks well, should be no problem fitting gearbox and if it does it means everything was set right. I think that when you activate the clutch the plate might center itself better but the movement would me very very little because the plate would already be positioned on the gearbox shaft and no much movement would be possible.
 
thank you, I'm understanding it a bit better now. The shaft from the gear box is rigid, with no play at all. So when the gearbox is bolted on to the engine "no such movement would be possible"
And Mr Reno your suggestion to loosen a few bolts makes a lot of sense, (if the box doesn't slide straight in!)
But I'm hoping it will and when my gaskets arrive hopefully on Friday I will know!
 
mojobaby said:
Shit! Thank you Azazello
Click to expand...
You're welcome, but it was just a question... is there a gasket or not?
I need to know because I would like to change my clutch and if I need a specific gasket I have to look for it...
It's useful to have a couple of person doing your same restoration in order to have advices...
 
Which gasket are y you on about can't think why you've mentioned a gasket in this conversation there is one behind the metal plate where the gearbox end plate t with the release bearing is fitted to
 
the only "gaskets" I could think of are simmerrings on the crankshaft and other on the gearbox shaft.
There might me some seal between gearbox and its bell ( I've got silicone there )
 
Azazello, There is no gasket between the gearbox and bell housing (I thought there was)
There is a gasket between the gearbox and the gearbox end plate where the clutch mechanism rests on
 
mojobaby said:
thank you, I'm understanding it a bit better now. The shaft from the gear box is rigid, with no play at all. So when the gearbox is bolted on to the engine "no such movement would be possible"
And Mr Reno your suggestion to loosen a few bolts makes a lot of sense, (if the box doesn't slide straight in!)
But I'm hoping it will and when my gaskets arrive hopefully on Friday I will know!
Click to expand...
The end of the shaft out of the gearbox goes into a recess in the end of the crankshaft. You don't need to be more than a millimetre or two of for the shaft to be moved sideways by the clutch plate enough to not go in. My eyes were often not that accurate.
I use a bit of wooden dowel - sand the end down so its a neat fit into the recess, tape around the dowel about where the clutch plate splines are so that's a neat fit too.
Works a treat and takes less time that dicking around trying to line the gearbox up when it just doesn't want to go!
 
Just buy a genuine clutch and use the free tool supplied ☺
 
Purely economic reasons, Mr Reno! 80Euro as opposed to 150Euro.

I actually used Geoff's idea at first (found his suggestion on a previous post) but then I ended up doing it by sight.
I'm sure I've got it right, but I'll be the first to complain if it doesn't fit:laughing:.

I need some further advice please which I'm sure will help other people who take off a gearbox for the frst time.........

When I first took the gear box off, I undid every bolt I could see. I now realize that was a mistake because I think some of the bolts are there purely to keep the front plate on the gear box. 4 of the bolts secure the gearbox to the bell housing and the 4 at the bottom are bolted to the sump.

In the below photo there are 2 bolts that I don't think I should have removed. One at 12 o'clock and the other at 9 o'clock
DSCF6659.JPG
and further to our conversation this morning, after I removed the front plate, the gasket is visible

DSCF6657.JPG
 
It gets worse there is an oil seal in that metal plate which usually gets damaged by the splines unless you put tape on them before removing
2 different seals 845 cc and 1108 slight difference in size
Might as well change that as well now as not funny if it leaks when reassembled
 
mojobaby said:
Looking at the end of the camshaft, you'll notice that the centre stands out from the sh
I had to smack it with a flat piece of wood to get it on all the way. With the heating, I had expected an easier fit. Notice the raised cam centre at the same level as the ring on the sprocket.

View attachment 13472
Click to expand...

Here it says differently. ..
http://www.la4ldesylvie.fr/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=278&Itemid=69

repose-pignon-arbre-a-cames-4l-moteur-billancourt.jpg
 
It is a bit confusing, but if you look on my page 3.... http://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/look-what-i-found.5611/page-3, you will notice that it was like that when I took it off.
I also tried to follow the Heynes manual which is also confusing. They use a bolt and nut and large diameter washer to force the sprocket onto the camshaft. When you turn the nut it forces the washer inwards. If you follow that method then the sprocket will be the same height as the raised centre of the camshaft.
 
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