look what I found

[mr-reno-139]

Noticing your location being france you are welcome to a free gasket but not sure how much postage will be and can't post till Monday
I found a genuine head gasket set too but guess you've sorted that area already
I could do paypal but maybe french suppliers cheaper

 

[mojobaby]

Many thanks Paul, that's very generous but I'll pay you the price that I was going to pay Oscaro. Plus your postage. PM me the postage price on Monday and we can use Paypal.
I received a complete gasket set from Franzose, so the head gasket is included

 

[mr-reno-139]

Seems strange sending Renault bits to France when there's people on the forum going to France to get parts for cars in England lol send me your address via p.m. or if you have got What's App my mobile number is listed on my profile

 

[Laurie]

Great thread, I'm new here and this is just what i'm looking for...looking forward to seeing that head go back on and the overall outcome...nice work

 

[mojobaby]

Thanks for the sump gasket Mr Reno. I must admit that the quality of the cork(Renault part) seems a lot better than the after market one that I had before. It's thicker as well.

I used your advice and stuck it on with a light contact adhesive. There was no movement when I fitted the sump.

Following the Heynes manual I put the bolts with the screw head at the very back. I have no idea why this is important.



and I got as far as replacing all the tappets. Here's a photo of the first one going in


I'm going to be replacing the cylinder head bolts as the thread looks a little worn to me and one of the bolts is bent.
All the bolt sets that I've seen come in packs of 10. My 845cc engine has 12 bolts and the middle one is longer than the rest.

What does one do in a case like this? Should I buy a set of 10, then use the old "long" bolt for the centre and then choose the best condition old bolt for the 12th hole?

I wonder if Renault sell the bolts individually?

 

[mr-reno-139]

Had this problem with a alpine A108 basically dauphine gordini engine similar to r4
I went and bought some Allan key hex bolts and new washers as original in poor condition they are a standard thread and it also much easier to tighten the difficult ones between rocker arms
The longer bolt I had to buy one too long and cut down
The reason for slotted screws is to enable undoing them in situ
Through the small holes in floor pan if sumo needs removing
Presumably before 1/4 drive sockets and u/j invented

 

[mojobaby]

The M10-100 size cylinder head bolts that are supplied by Der Franzose and Melun Retro are only used for the 1108cc engines (GTL) and the 1000cc engines (probably Savanne 956cc) .
They're also used on the R5, R6 and Twingo. And they cost a very affordable 21Euro for a set of 10.

The poor 845cc is in a class of its own. She has 7x95mm bolts, 4x80mm bolts and 1x115mm bolt. A total of 12!
No one stocks these except Renault themselves. To buy a whole set will cost 130Euro!!

Luckily you don't have to order the whole set, you can buy them individually, which is what I'm going to do. I have one damaged bolt(bent), and the others I have managed to clean and I think I can re-use them.

 

[Azazello]

Do they differ so much from normal bolts cut the right size?

It seems that pieces for 845 engines are running out from "official" sellers, althought there is still quite a lot of material sold as "remains" of old garages...

 

[mr-reno-139]

High tensile metric m10 bolts have a grade number 8.8 10.9 12.9 etc haven't got a link available but provided thread pitch is correct i am sure there is a grade on original bolts and with the tightening torque needed on R4 I am sure it will be fine to use bolts from engineering supplies as I said earlier socket cap hex bolts are easy to tighten

 

[mojobaby]

I think that the pitch is 1.5. The problem with these bolts is that the threaded part is only about an inch long, with about 16/17 actual threads.

If you take a 100mm bolt and cut off 5mm of thread to make a 95mm bolt, that's 20% of the thread gone. So only 80% (or 12 threads) has to take the full load that is exerted on the bolt.
That force could very well cause thread stripping

I don't know the formula for clamp force of the bolts or even the psi pressure that is generated inside the cylinder, but I'm sure its huge! So the bolt has to be high strength.

The bolts have "11" on the bolt head, but no idea what this means.

Below is a pic of a bearing bolt with the same number 11

Also, there is the question as to whether or not the bolts should be put in dry or slightly lubricated. There is also the question as to whether or not the washer under the bolt head should be lubricated on both sides

 

[mr-reno-139]

Seem to remember when I had this engine in pieces I measured depth of thread by cleaning out and using airline to make sure no debris in bolt holes

This is always important as the bolt can act as a hydraulic piston and crack block or cause incorrect tightening values

I temporarily fitted head and used a long thin screwdriver to measure length of bolts required
Bolts supplied will be measured as length under bolt head and if necessary use thicker washers to allow 3 to 5 mm free space under bolt in block

The 10.9 bolts won't stretch or snap at 45 lb foot which is correct torque
Coppaslip threads lightly leave washers dry as you will be slacken 1/4 turn on each bolt as part of sequence

This is a low compression engine and providing head flat liner protrusion correct all will be fine
I have been doing renault head gaskets since I was 14 which is 40 years worth ☺
Only problems recently is poor quality after market gaskets have had 3 BGA gaskets corrode away in less than 2 years use
1 R5 1108 a clio 1.4 and clio 1.2 diet
Sticking to Payen now or Reinz but a lot of gaskets get reboxed and who knows which part of China they have come from

 

[mr-reno-139]

Nice carburettor for a 850 thought mght be interesting

 

[mojobaby]

she runs beautifully! I managed to watch the next video as well when she drove out of the workshop

 

[mojobaby]

The head is finally on!

I cleaned and bolted on the manifold and remembered the manifold brace support.

All bolts are torqued to 45lbs/foot

 

[Azazello]

Wonderful work. I'd love to rebuild the engine of the car I am working on, but it's a job i've never done and since it was running well when I took it out I think I will just change clutch and distribution...

 

[pepper]

Azazello , if it isn't broken do not fix it!!!
stupid auto correct

 

[mojobaby]

Thank you Azazello, before I started this job I had only changed spark plugs and points and timing. That's the reason it's taking a long time.
I get such good advice and help from people on this forum and hopefully I can give some back.

 

[Azazello]

Thank you Azazello, before I started this job I had only changed spark plugs and points and timing. That's the reason it's taking a long time.
I get such good advice and help from people on this forum and hopefully I can give some back.

Think I am at your same initial level...

 

[mojobaby]

Thanks for the inspiration, Edtom!
I first sprayed a high temperature grey colour (up to 300 degrees) because I couldn't find a primer for high temperature, and then used the red brake caliper spray. I'm very happy with the result! It has a high gloss finish.
I liked it so much that I painted the water pump pulley as well.

 

[mojobaby]

My new clutch was received from Franzose and has been fitted.

If I'm correct, once the gearbox shaft is inserted and the clutch is activated for the first time, it will release the pressure on the friction plate and centre it more perfectly?

I also looked for torque specs for the fixing bolts to the flywheel but couldn't find anything in the Heynes manual. So I've just tightened them very well.