Clementine's Garage
Clementine the Cat
 
Image of flower
Yellow R4
 
Réparateur d'automobiles

R4 GTL 1985 Restoration

Further with preparation of the cars body in the "cleanroom".
It's amazing to see how many small scratches, paint wrinkles and pits caused by stone chips you encounter when you put your nose into it with preparatory sanding.
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Still no rush with the paintjob as the weather still has to improve and time is not on our side.
Our anniversary party is next week, holidays are starting in a forthnight and I had to do a minor repair on our Honda CR-V as the wife drove backwards into a pole causing a dent in the plastic bumper cover corner.


Cheers :waving:
 
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Just a small update.

Vacation weeks were very fine but sadly all good things come to an end and work has already started, likewise the restoration hobby.

Continuing the preparatory very fine sanding of the body, as well as cleaning and decreasing the lot with various solvents so painting will start after the weekend.

Meanwhile I was looking for more original and better parts for the rebuild, I'm in contact with a forum member about a part and just a package arrived with a very nice copper radiator which I bought from Leboncoin.
In my first GTL I also had a copper one when the original weak and cheaply produced factory one (aluminum with plastic pans) failed.
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Cheers.
 
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Here's an update.

Since september last year a lot has happened and work on my GTL came to a halt.
But since a month I picked it up and started with spraypainting. Two base coats and 2 clear coats were applied.

The improvised spraybooth has been torn down and here she is in the very nice purple/blue colour "Renault 417 Bleu Versailles".
The body again hoisted back into the ridge and started to paint the underside as well as the wheel arches.
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Now there's room to continue working on the chassis but that's revealed next time.

Cheers.
 
As you all have been able to read over the past 8 years, the complete restoration sometimes came to a standstill and then a short restart.
But now we are going full steam ahead again, albeit occasionally interrupted by vacation (Athens here we come), the wedding of daughter 1 and the renovation of daughter 2's house.
I notice that the older I get, the busier I get, but that keeps you young :D.

The chassis lifted onto the trestles en first some small welding on the floor lips from both the rear beams.
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Next is the front beam which was collecting dust after all those years.
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As expected with an aftermarket product it doesn't line up at several points.
On the right it lines up beautiful with the bumper support.
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But on the left... well you can see.

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Time to cut an oval piece of steel and weld it in and make a new slot at a later moment.
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Holes at the bottom didn't line up as well so again I'll close it and drill them out at a later moment.
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More next time.
 
As you all have been able to read over the past 8 years, the complete restoration sometimes came to a standstill and then a short restart.
But now we are going full steam ahead again, albeit occasionally interrupted by vacation (Athens here we come), the wedding of daughter 1 and the renovation of daughter 2's house.
I notice that the older I get, the busier I get, but that keeps you young :D.

The chassis lifted onto the trestles en first some small welding on the floor lips from both the rear beams.
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Next is the front beam which was collecting dust after all those years.
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As expected with an aftermarket product it doesn't line up at several points.
On the right it lines up beautiful with the bumper support.
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But on the left... well you can see.

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Time to cut an oval piece of steel and weld it in and make a new slot at a later moment.
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Holes at the bottom didn't line up as well so again I'll close it and drill them out at a later moment.
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More next time.
Nice job...nothing ever fits properly on Renault 4's ! And you need a lot of patience working on these cars.
 
Continuing the work on the front beam.

Lining up the beam, maintain the symmetry with the chassis and drilling the holes at the bottom.
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And next all the well known preparation steps for plug welding as there are drilling the holes, sanding away the zinc and applying the weld thru primer.
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Plug welding starts, then grinding, the zinc protection and another job's done.

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Next the floor protection beam is put back.
So I start to drill the holes and bolted it in and after that the plug welds.
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That's it for today on Easter monday, next is to take a shower, start up the BBQ, invite the friends and get a well deserved beer(s).

Cheers.
 
Autumn again and where were we and where are we heading?
The last update was last June, and we've done plenty again. Our daughter bought a house with, you guessed it, plenty of DIY to do.
We also went on vacation to Athens, which is a truly beautiful city, and unfortunately, we weren't able to visit @angel workshop.
But we've made some progress, and the reconstruction can begin.

All welds of the chassis were sealed, primer (Brantho Nitrofest) was applied and finished with 2 coats of high-gloss paint (Brantho S-Glasur).
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The inner part of the chassis was masked off and the outer parts of the chassis were painted with 3 layers of Brantho Korrux.
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Continue the story above…
Flipped the chassis and again welds were sealed and 3 layers Brantho Korrux were applied.
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Then the work of preserving the cavities begins. Years ago I wrote that I would use Mike Sanders grease, but I opted for the Fluid Film brand instead.
Liquid A is a liquid version that seeps into every crevice, while Liquid AR is thick and viscous.
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I first applied Liquid A while the chassis was still upside down, and after a day, I turned the chassis over so the liquid got everywhere...I hope.
Then I apply Liquid AR, but because it is thick we will heat it up first (what's cooking) and spray it in the cavities.
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The chassis is now ready and we can start with reassembly.
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Cheers
 
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The rebuilding can begin, but first you have to find the parts that have been sitting in the shed attics for years, and then you discover you still have some cleaning to do, sanding, painting...
Well, you know the drill.

Fuel tank cross member, torsion bars and brake limiter.
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The complete rear brake pressure limiter, the cover could not be saved and will be replaced by a new one made of stainless steel and a new brake power controller.
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The drum brakes get their sanding and painting job.

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That's it for now, cheers.
 
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After some painting we start mounting the rear suspension.
I only show the left side because all actions are identical for the right side.

We start by hand, and with a little squeezing, the anchor plate is in place. The outer one needs a bit more persuasion with the help of a tension strap and finally the bolts are in.
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We install the auxiliary tool and begin tensioning the wheel arm so we can then install the torsion bars. It's quite a distance to go from approximately 35 cm to the prescribed 28 cm.
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The torsion bars are refitted with loads of grease in all splines and they went in nice and fairly easy. The auxiliary tool is removed and all nuts and bolts are tightened to the correct torque.
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Cheers.
 
When the restoration began, with the complete disassembly and cleaning, buying and replacing parts, all the welding, etc., etc., you know you're dealing with a thousand things.
Now, during the rebuilding process, you discover there are a thousand and one things to consider. But it's still incredibly fun!

Starting with the reasembly of the rear brake power controller.
I've got to drill a hole in the left rear beam and install a blind rivet nut.
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Meanwhile some parts I ordered have arrived, Jan-Willem is still running his shop R-Quatre.
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The rear brake power controller is reassembled including a stainless steel cover and mounted.
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Next job is the reassembly of the front suspension but to do that I've to clean the parts as they were lying for years in several boxes in the former restoration location and afterwards in the attic.
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Still a lot to do but as I wrote it's a lot of fun.
Cheers for now.
 
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