I have been busy working on the rear support beams. Once upon a time the axle support plates haven been repaired. Unfortunately is has been a poor repair and I'm glad I decided to cut them out. It all started to rust on the inner side.
Today I was working on the rear axle. I did some cleaning with a steel wire brush and I decided - before going on further cleaning - to remove the silent blocks on both sides. It was a dirty job but I managed. When cleaning the inner tubbes it seems rust had made some holes, bummer!!!
I think this is beyond repair? What do you advice?
If everyone stripped their rear axles this far I expect this would be a common sight
No way of knowing how bad they are until they snap normally
Have known people get a steel tube fabricated and sleeve internally
Yeeeey I got a new rear axle. Some time ago it was restored (sandblasted etc.) but the owner got ill and the axle was set alone in storage.. I'm happy I got it! I'm doubting if I will replace the silent blocks, they seem on pretty good condition..
What is an easy way to line up new silent blocks? I think most easy (before removing the old ones) is to measure the distance between silent blocks (axle lying flat) and the floor. We also got a 'new' compressor, as old as I'm - hehehe - and still working fine! I can now sandblast the way it should be..
Wow, I just love seeing this sort of thorough restoration in pictures. Tell me, when you've finished the chassis, presumably you'll be injecting something like Waxoyl into the chassis so that it lasts for years? Are there already holes in the chassis for this? When you weld in a new plate, how do you decide whether you butt weld the edges or plug weld them? Once you've spot welded a plate in, do you then follow up with a continuous weld or do you think that is unecessary? Excellent job! :-D
I can't help you with any tips on welding. Others may be able to finesse the advantages of butt vs plug welding.
On the other hand, now that the body is removed from the chassis you will find around 23 captive nuts in the chassis where the body bolts to it. I reckon that will give enough access to pour in whatever brand of alchemy you can brew!
Fish (fish oil) vs Lamb (lanolin) vs proprietary concoctions (waxoyl). I've heard of people using used ATF as it's cheap and quite "wicky"
Ultimately, you have to decide what rust preventative technique you use.
It is imperative that you do some research into what people use (and are happy with) in your country when treating the SAME vehicle. (R4)
There are other access areas that will be revealed with any cut to repair rusted metal.
Jurgenz, What are you going to paint the suspension with? Are you familiar with POR15? Sold by Frost's, it dries to a rock hard gloss but once the lid has been levered open, the paint must be used up. By next day, you will destroy the can trying to get the lid open and the paint will have set. Use disposable brushes too ;-)
Jurjenz, Have a look at www.frost.co.uk They are lots and lots of paints, etc, for car restorers. I painted the suspension of my Lomax 223 in light grey POR15 and it came up like glass. I bought a box of very small tins as I could throw each away after I had used them. They won't keep for a second day.