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R4 TL restauration

Jurjenz

Enthusiast
Messages
336
Location
Groningen, Netherlands
Hi guys!

Fortunately I become more & more experienced in removing the engine. So here we go again! :doh::doh::doh:

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Safe and sound on the ground. Time to remove the distribution cap :o

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Oke, so what happened? I'm very sure it has to be my fault.. :confused: Once I removed the distribution cap, a bolt was laying down there, and also the bolt holding down the backplate of the distributiontensioner was very loose. Somehow I didn't tightend them enough almost 2 years ago. So the bolt below came between the crankshaft & chain. You can see the damage of the bolt below:

IMG_20181117_143545.jpg

So with a broken belt, and broken crankshaft pulley I need to replace them: (beside, I now noticed that the pulley already had some wear & tear). I used a bearring puller to remove it from the crankshaft.

IMG_20181117_161728.jpg

So in the end it will cost me about €60,-, but the time involved and all the extra work. Well, I suppose it could have been worse...;)

1) Anyone advice how to put back a crankshaft pulley?
2) What torque settings I need to use for the bolts holding the chain tensioner backplate?

Cheers, Jurjen :drunk:
 

Cornish4

Le Dazzleur
Messages
1,496
Location
Falmouth
Hi Jurjen, as you say, it could have been a lot worse. I would clean up the end of the crankshaft with very fine wet and dry paper, and check that the key is in good condition, replace it if it looks damaged after this mishap.Then oil the crank journal and tap the sprocket on using a hide or soft hammer. Is the chain ok? I don't know the torque setting for the tensioner bolts, but no more than 15 lb ft I would say.
Good luck, regards Brian.
 

Jurjenz

Enthusiast
Messages
336
Location
Groningen, Netherlands
Attempt no. 2 ;)

Putting the crankshaft sprocket back on was easy using a gentle hammer. Camshaft sprocket same story. On the photo below, I spotwelded the two bolts in the yellow area (say what?!). I couldn't really tidy them using the bolt only because the thread whithin the engineblock has some wear & tear. Therefor I welded them just to be sure and because there is no need to remove them ever again (and secured with locktite)..

Now the drive shafts are also removed, maybe I can throw another try on the torsion bars to heighten the front..

181122 distribution.JPG
:)
 

petak

Enthusiast
Messages
1,335
Location
Vodice, Croatia
What a drama happened here.

Ended up as "easy" repair, but so much trouble around it.

On the other hand, you are becoming an R4 engine expert :D

Where did you get sprockets, chain and chain tensioner?
Did you used old chain and tensioner or brand new?
I am about to go that road quite soon!
 

petak

Enthusiast
Messages
1,335
Location
Vodice, Croatia
You are getting familiar with engine ....... that is also positive thing....:D

i know about them and put their prices in my part list excel sheet.

Hope i will find time and effort to make new topics about engine and gearbox overhauling. That is idea at least
 
Messages
83
Location
London
Hello @Jurjenz , what a fantastic restoration! Just read the whole thread. A long journey.. good luck getting these bits sorted so you can take a well-earned break and enjoy the car :) - Simon
 

petak

Enthusiast
Messages
1,335
Location
Vodice, Croatia
Next, one more time an adjustment on the torsion bars..

I was looking ride height on few good R4 that never was dismantled and height from ground to the center of front wheel arches is 61,5 - 62 cm.
Measured vertically at center of the wheel.

Just so you have guidance how much you need to lift front suspension up. You are now at 58cm if i remember correctly

It would be interesting to see difference on pictures. before and after.
 

Jurjenz

Enthusiast
Messages
336
Location
Groningen, Netherlands
Good to know the distance! i did redo the torsions, and I nog have a height of 59 cm. Good enough for me :)

Today I went to the local garage to get the wheels aligned, much better now!

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Then I had FINALLY some quality time with Lousie driving around in the city of Groningen, despite the weather - we had great fun! Much fun also was to see peoples reactions :D

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A quick drive by at my work

cheers, Jurjen
 

JdeW

Enthusiast
Messages
428
Location
Laarbeek The Netherlands
Luckely you've experiance with chassis welding Jurjen ;)
But when tight wraps are sufficient it will save a lot of time :D
 

Jurjenz

Enthusiast
Messages
336
Location
Groningen, Netherlands
Well, to start, I bought myself a nice present :cool:
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A new toolbox, yeahh :laughing:

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My other car 'Sofie' (Citroën AX GTI, 1991) has some serious rust - and it is much worse than I thought i would be. Maybe not R4 specific, but I would like to show the progress..

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Inside just behind passenger seat
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Outside:
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Jurjenz

Enthusiast
Messages
336
Location
Groningen, Netherlands
The leftside beam is also very bad..
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But what I really don't like is this, rusted beam just beside the rear axcle mountingbracket..
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It is becoming a small restoration, which I didn't had in mind! :doh::doh::doh:
 

JdeW

Enthusiast
Messages
428
Location
Laarbeek The Netherlands
Well Jurjen that's a nice second restore project.
And although the Citroen AX is not a R4 specific topic, the rust attacks on the chassis and your repairs makes it the same :D
 

Jurjenz

Enthusiast
Messages
336
Location
Groningen, Netherlands
Just a quick update, the AX is finished! I also got myself a new toy to restore :D. A Dutch Huvema drill press from 1980,hehe. IMG_20190210_161211.jpg
 

JdeW

Enthusiast
Messages
428
Location
Laarbeek The Netherlands
That's a nice piece of equipment Jurjen.
Is this still a hobby or have you missed your true calling and real profession? :D
 

Jurjenz

Enthusiast
Messages
336
Location
Groningen, Netherlands
Bad news, our workshop is going to be demolished to make room for new real estate, arghh. But we may have a new home for our cars! More info later :)

In the mean I'm working on the drill press and I did some small parts refurbishment..
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:D
 
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