Clementine's Garage
Clementine the Cat
 
Image of flower
Yellow R4
 
Réparateur d'automobiles

R4 TL restauration

You were lucky to find that bolt for lower arm
I could not so had to make new one....
 
Yes indeed! Found it on a portugese webshop. Not original though but refabricated. Nevertheless, I am very happy with it!
 
New update :hug:

Short walkaround on our workshop:

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I ordered new bearings as the ones shown below are old and noisy. In what order do I need to put the parts together?
- 2 into 1
- 4 into 1
- 7 into 4
?

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:drunk:
Great to see your amazing workshop. All being together like that means you can help each other out and it must be great for motivation too
 
New front wheel bearings removed and pressed:
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Summer holiday is coming so I really hope I can make some real progress!
 
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You are making biiiiigggg progres so far....can not imagine how will look after holidays....

Realy like how you are working on car....
 
The part you need for gearbox I should have one on the top case that I will be using for my rodeo as once I bolt it to the 5 speed box pretty sure acording yo what i've read I have to fit the 5 ha 1 selector arm
Can post if nothing closer turns up
 
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Some progress on cleaning the engine. First how it was on the car before I took it off
 
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Great progress ! What size engine ? My GTL 688 engine looks different
 
It's a ventoux engine 3 bearing runs opposite direction 845cc
More popular overseas than uk as after 79 nearly all uk cars and vans 1108 cc
 
Hi,

motorcode is B1BD7/07:

I'm not sure: with the fly wheel in front of you, what direction is the engine running? Clockwise or anti-clockwise?
 
It runs anti-clockwise, but the dizzy runs clockwise. No trouble reconnecting the spark plug leads. 1342 beginning with the one closest to the alternator counting from the flywheel.
 
I've had one of these for years know
As you are supposed to rotate valves back and forward☺Screenshot_2016-07-27-22-19-54.png
 
... unless your drill has a reverse direction ... :whistle:
 
The tool I use also attached to electric drill but creates back and forth motion
 
Thanks for that tool! Seems like it is very useful.

EDIT

Found this comment on a youtubevideo which also used a drill. Makes sense, learnful lesson for the next time:

ER You should NEVER rotary lap a valve in esp with a drill, it HAS to be a BACK AND FORTH action then LIFT OFF the seat to reset the valve paste on the seat, (as the paste grinding sound goes quieter usually 4 or 5 times ) then turn the valve a few degrees and then rept motion. like starting a fire but if you rotate it, you burn scars into the seat,, meaning the valve seat gets hotter and clogs with carbon deposits in these scars, which then burns the seat again meaning another head rebuild. And you start the VALVE Grinding with COARSE paste, then clean off and move to a SMOOTH grinding paste for a nice consistent groove free flat greyish looking seat ! The best way to check if it has worked is to use a soft pencil like a HB and scribe three vertical lines at 120 degrees apart on the seat when you refit the valve on the seat twist the valve when in contact with the seat and the 3 pencil marks will rub evenly along the seat, if not then the seats need regrinding again or you need new valves and or valve guides.,

This is for the lazy mechanics. EAZILAP by GUNSONS, been here 40 odd years, a DRILL ADAPTER, which oscillates back and forth ( )
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunson-G4...nds-Grinder-22-28mm-Sucker-Head-/310719942809
 
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