What I am doing!

[JonathanT]

Jonathan, Could you please show a photo of exactly where on the water pump your adaptor and sensor is bolted? I am looking at exactly the same water temp gauge on eBay. Irritatingly I just know I have an original Smith water temp gauge somewhere in my workshop and for the life of me, I cannot find it. I've had it for forty years now!

(Later) Solved. I've found two plugs on the water pump and presume the one I need is the larger of the two and facing forwards. I can insert my little finger into the hex recess of the plug. After failing to find the Smiths temp gauge I have bought the same eBay one as you did. I'm curious as to the size of the special adaptor you have inherited (male & female threads). The sensor thread might be 1/8" NPT but there is no information about it in the eBay entry. I should be able to turn one up on my lathe.

Ok here are some photos. You will see the sensor is pushed into a fixing bolt hole not a water jacket hole. The fit is snug and I held in place with a dab of threadlock. To make the installation more pleasing to the eye and a bit more professional I found up some bits of rubber from the bike repair tin and added those. I don't have a thread adaptor but I know they exist. The photo is of an extra outlet port that screws in. Two of these were supplied with the pump. It was one of these I was thinking of adapting till I discovered the neat bolt position in the photos. The thread of the additional /optional take off port is shown in photo

 

[JonathanT]

This is where I intend to mount the Guage....just under the fuses

 

[Paul Narramore]

Thanks Jonathan, Yor images have proved very helpful. I was out there today between the showers trying to do some touch-up painting and I now know what you mean. I had visions of removing a water pump bolt but the hole you have used is the M8 back end of such a hole. So the thread on the sensor doesn't fit the hole and the plain sensor-end is simply a push fit into the threaded hole then? Whilst I'd prefer the sensor to actually be in contact with the coolant, if it works, all well and good. As I have sent off for an identical water temp gauge, there should be no problems. Where have I heard that before? Thanks again.

 

[JonathanT]

Hi Paul youre right its simply a push fit but a good one. The reality is it works brilliantly. that its not in direct contact with the water is neither here nor there. The indication and trend is fine

 

[JonathanT]

Tonight I've finally got round to making new boot side trims. They are a tricky shape. There is a subtlety to their shape allowing you to fit them. Slight deviation and the darn things just don't go into place

 

[Paul Narramore]

Why? What was up with your existing ones? Thin ply? How do you intend to cover them?

 

[JonathanT]

The old ones were battered and torn. This was a hard job to fit.
I have published PDF drawings for these panels earlier if anyone is missing them. My replacements were made from 2mm MDF and now covered in Dacron with Tartan fabric over the top

 

[JonathanT]

I've decided to leave the wheel arch rubbers off for the mo as they too are tatty and I like a bit of blue tin And that blue tin was so very hard to get right with welding seat belt doubled up fixings etc

The shape is subtlety designed to allow it to be fitted as I discovered! The shape can be pulled or pushed into position only by the heel or it will tear on the inside corner

 

[Paul Narramore]

Very smart. Your clan will be very proud of you ;-)

 

[JonathanT]

Hoots Mon

 

[nicky4tl]

I've decided to leave the wheel arch rubbers off for the mo as they too are tatty and I like a bit of blue tin And that blue tin was so very hard to get right with welding seat belt doubled up fixings etc

The shape is subtlety designed to allow it to be fitted as I discovered! The shape can be pulled or pushed into position only by the heel or it will tear on the inside corner

ahah! I wrecked mine taking them out. Thanks for sharing this.

 

[petak]

Fantastic JonathanT!
I have your drawing waiting me to find time for it!

Tiniest i have found is 3mm MDF hope it will be bendy enough to fit inside.

What is with that cut corner? you bend it while putting trim in and then flatten out?

 

[JonathanT]

Yes that's it Petak - fold the corner upwards and use the straight edge it forms as a handle hold then push up hard but carefully making sure the front end is tucked under the window flange. The rear corner should just clear the tailgate frame edge. The fold the flap down as best possible - the wire to the rear lights will be right behind it. Blocks of foam stuck to the body will keep the installed shape right. Note the 'L' shape deliberately doesn't follow the window exactly. It's more open upward curve at the front so the shape will slide into place .

 

[JonathanT]

Grip like this

 

[JonathanT]

Note the inside edges of the 'L' shape are deliberately kinked.

 

[JonathanT]

And this curve is more 'open' than the true radius of the window

 

[JonathanT]

3mm is probably fine. My 2mm was unusual - came as a cover board on a stack of 3mm MDF at work. Hardboard would also work

 

[JonathanT]

Foam blocks

 

[petak]

Great......this will help me to make it in first attempt.

 

[Paul Narramore]

I tried and failed yesterday to remove the rear offside trim panel as I could see me destroying it.

But someone tell me. I have fitted the new tow bar and the electrical socket. Where actually can I connect into the car's wiring? At the back of the rear light or somewhere behind this trim panel

(Later) Solved by Mr.Reno. Remove rear light, drill extra hole alongside existing hole, wire up.