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Yellow R4
 
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What I am doing!

Yes you can do that but it's probable you will have a nest of wires visible through the lens and will be compromising the fit of the lens. I made connections on the inside in the corner above the inner rear wing and below the boot lid Spring. The relay repeater which peeps to confirm your indicators are working is then audible within the car. From beneath the wing on that side I have one sheathed set of wires to the rear light and another set of sheathed wires to the towing lights socket which is hidden on the underside in my case
 
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Ok if anyone is fitting a temp guage this one is nice and cheap about 5 pounds from eBay via China. The sensor will fit into one of the bolt fixing holes on the water pump or with an official adapter to make water contact. I chose to put blue gauge attached to the bottom cover of the fuse box this made it visible from the driving position but still discreet .it works really well and it is possible to follow the effect of the fan when it's running by watching the gauge.
 
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If anyone is fitting exactly the same guage and sensor. I sheathed the thread with a cut down spark plug HT cover and a bicycle brake cable rubber over the wire and head of the sensor
 
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To make the fitting neat and to hide the wires and the blue side of the guage I found a black spray can lid fitted perfectly so made a hole so wires would exit at the top side
 
So last nights tinker yielded a working flap vent. This was my adaption from a GTL vent to the earlier flap . The outside has been complete for ages but it wasn't possible to open it from the inside. Now I've made a simple adaptor ( effectively a U shaped rod) connected to the original GTL 'L' shaped rod and it works. The little ratchet circlip device is lost I'm guessing it was a trapped ball bearing held by a spring clip . Anyhow the flap stays up while I'm sitting still - let's see what it's like out on the road :artist: The other job was the headlights which were too high and I've had several people flash me. Loathingly I had to take the front grill off then a bit of fiddling and for some reason both headlights seem to click down at the bottom edge. I still don't know why this should be because I studied it really carefully. Nonetheless I'm happy with the gift of a click and now the headlamps seem to be much better:laughing:
 
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In praise of these covers from Der Franzose . I bought it when I had a good month at work . The outside is a slippery nylon finish. The inside is soft fleece . It fits really well and is elasticated at each bumper. The left hand door has a zip access door. I don't think there is a RHD version but it's really no bother. The zip head is protected by Velcro so it can't scratch your paintwork when putting it on and I guess helps hold it together under tension
 
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Yes you can do that but it's probable you will have a nest of wires visible through the lens and will be compromising the fit of the lens. I made connections on the inside in the corner above the inner rear wing and below the boot lid Spring. The relay repeater which peeps to confirm your indicators are working is then audible within the car. From beneath the wing on that side I have one sheathed set of wires to the rear light and another set of sheathed wires to the towing lights socket which is hidden on the underside in my case

I am still having problems. I borrowed a friend's trailer board - yes we checked it out first on his car so everything works on it - but when connected to the R4, the indicators work fine, however one rear light doesn't work and one brake light doesn't work. I've tried to make sense of the wiring diagrams in Haynes - why can't they have a simpler English-style circuit diagram which I could cope with? I've checked the earthing which seems fine and even joined the earthing point from the RH rearlight to the earthing point to the LH rearlight. Oh well, the sun is shining so lets spend another few hours out there.

(Later) Damn it! I've had enough. I give up. I've got indicators both sides but rear light only on the NS. I'm now going to dismantle the socket to see if there's a loose connection in there.
 
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Hmm it's hard to know how to advise without seeing myself. Logic said Spock is the best way to resolve electrical issues
 
If memory serves the old-style 7 pin plug has TWO pins connecting to the tail lights; one to the off-side & the other to the near-side, so if you've only power to one side then that might be the problem. If the car's brake lights work properly without the light board I'd wedge the footbrake pedal down & use a meter to see which pin is then live. Having found this try passing 12 volts down the matching point on the lightboard plug (make sure the board is earthed) and see if the brake lights come on. If they don't, or some other lights come on, the wiring's gone west somehow!

More advice if you need it!
 
Paul you will need a sensor relay with audible confirmation your indicators are working. This is a legal requirement now. The relays are very cheap. Mine was similar to this Ring one - the circuit is shown below and a socket plan too
 
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THAT'S the diagram I was looking for! It might look complicated, but I assure you that it's not that difficult to sort out with the aid of a screwdriver, wire cutter & a multi-meter. Good luck!
 
I have one of those plug-in diagnostic devices ordered but I am pretty sure that I will give up on this task. You see, I am clearly a nut & bolt person rather than an electrical one. I shall probably take it to a local garage for someone else to solve as ten hours labouring away on what should be a simple task has scarred my sanity. Jonathan, the bleeper or lack of one is the last of my problems at the moment. I need the electrics right before driving to Berkshire to collect my newly acquired trailer tent as I don't like to keep the vendor waiting any longer. Anyway I'm off at this in-Godly hour to Dover for a day trip to France. By for now.
 
I've a thought.... Drive to Berkshire via Barnet (just off the M25) and I'll give of my auto-electrical knowledge. Bet I can crack it!
 
JonathanT....i did not understand this sensor thing you are referring to....SO you must have additional relay that is making sound when your trailer indicators are working! It is not enough one that GTL have originally fitted?
 
Hi Petak:p
In the Uk we are required to have a small relay device fitted in the indicator circuit. It confirms to the driver the trailer indicators are working by beeping. Mine is oval in section about 60mm long X 20mm. There is not one fitted on a standard R4 before towbar. My relay is now behind those 'L' shaped trim panels below the tail gate Spring . It's just as well as it used to be deafening :(
 
I've a thought.... Drive to Berkshire via Barnet (just off the M25) and I'll give of my auto-electrical knowledge. Bet I can crack it!

Andrew, That's a challenge too good to refuse. Please let me have your phone number so we can mutually choose a date and time.
 
Thank you for clearing it for me!

Nice cover you bought!
 
It's. FRIDAY! And I'm in the garage .....cold outside so I'm Working in the space left between the bonnet and the bench .

So tonight's challenge to sort out Wombles Jack which is very bent ...my fault :eyepatch:
 
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