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I've run into the same trouble. I was fortunate to find an old stock driveshaft but these aren't going to be available for ever. It's a bad design - there isn't enough clearance between the driveshaft boot and the wishbone. Add to that a replacement ball joint and the clearance might be...

The temperature spec is important. Having the fan come on at the right temperature is pretty well the point of having the fan, and with the sensor in the bottom of the radiator it needs to come on at a lower temperature than if it were in the top of the radiator. Worth getting the right...

Bad fuel economy could be a few things. The exact distributor shouldn't be so important and it's possible to run a 32DIS on a R4 distributor and get 40mpg. Assuming the static timing is set correctly have you checked vacuum advance? If you take the distributor cap off, remove the vacuum...

Likely the shoes came away from the piston when the drum was pulled off. I've lost too many fingers to try to remove springs in situ. Pull the shoes outwards from the slave cylinder then upwards and away from the bottom retainer. All with the springs still attached.

The small bracket with the hole on the right side of the photo is a throttle cable mounting for LHD cars. It wasn't normally fitted to RHD cars made in France, but yours might have been made somewhere else.

The F4 sounds fun. Do you have to pay import duty these days? I'm in France at the moment and all of the older cars seem to have disappeared. Makes sense to bring the R4s over before they run out.

That's a good point. That page was written years ago and fitting a new chassis is now easier than repairing the original.

It'll be earthing as above. The rear lights are earthed to the rear wings via their mounting studs. It's not a very reliable method of earthing as the mountings get corroded. I've bolted a new earth wire to the lamp support on mine and connected it to the chassis. You can experiment to...

About 130psi from memory would be really good. 120psi OK. Pressure gauges aren't always calibrated too well so the main thing is to have all cylinders measure about the same pressure. If one of them is 20psi lower than the others it might indicate a leaky valve. Giving the car a good run...

The surging idle is likely due to fuel dripping into the carburettor. If you take the air filter off and look down the carburettor you should see the dripping. I don't know that carburettor well, but on an early Renault 5 the air hose at the top caused the problem. Try blocking the big air...

The calipers are Bendix. Hubs are interesting - they've been modified with countersunk bolts to take the earlier wheels. You knock the hub off and unbolt the disc from the hub. I normally go eBay for them. But I see what you mean - nothing on there has 6 bolts. Local motor factors might...

They've probably been over tightened and squished the tube. Maybe spray a bit of penetrating oil in the join to make it move easier then twist the gearstick all the way around by force to try to push out the dents before trying to work it out. Worth bearing in mind the force is reacted by...

Claude doing what Claude does best - collecting long lengths of wood rather than getting the twisted bits of wood that nobody else wants delivered.

Fredrick the frog's point of view about timing can be found here: https://www.renault4.co.uk/tech-points.htm On the 1108 engine red line is top dead centre. Anywhere to the right is advanced. I normally go somewhere in the middle. Worth listening for a tinking noise (pinking) on light...

The rattling is just poor quality aftermarket parts. I've had the same with the proper 1108cc silencers. Assuming you have no access to a welder for a strategically placed plug weld a dent made with a hammer where the baffle is will likely sort it. Or a dent close to the baffle to tighten...

I damaged a rubber boot on a new driveshaft. I put a new boot on (BOLK from Auto Doc) but it doesn't fit well. I managed to get some clearance to the lower suspension arm but there's probably not enough clearance for all suspension articulation and it'll probably fall off or wear quickly...

Oil filter is normally rear RHS of the block far enough down to make it fiddly to remove. Early cars sometimes didn't have them. If there is a blanking plate you need the adapter to screw in and can fit one.

It is worth draining some oil. Oil floats on top of water so water should be the first to come out of the drain plug while you try to get the oil to the correct level. That would also be a good clue for what is going on. Might just be a bad water pump or something

Oil cap can get oil/water emulsion through lack of use. Does the oil on the dipstick have the emulsion? That would indicate a leak between the water system and the engine oil. Worth confirming that before doing anything. Support strut would make no difference to this. Should you have...

The bearings in the Renault old stock box that went back on are engraved with 10N 6206 F111 B. They'll be the steel cage ones. What a pain of a job again - it's a drum brake car and the front brake hose had to be disconnected to remove the driveshaft. Noticed the brake pipe routing was...